Technical Idle higher and battery symbol

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Technical Idle higher and battery symbol

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Hi just out of the blue my 2007 2.3 has started to idle higher and the battery icon is on the dash. From what I’ve read up to yet it sounds like a bad earth from the alternator to the body. Does that sound about right? Where is the alternator located on this engine?
 
Hi Matt

The alternator is fairly solidly bolted to the engine, so a bad earth at that location is unlikely. The alternator is on the drivers side (UK) and low down on the bulkhead side (back) of the engine (from memory).

The short braided earth strap connection that frequently corrodes internally (i.e. still looks OK) and gives trouble is on the passenger side (UK) below the air filter. It links the engine block to the body C002/C003, and carries all the starting and charging current. If it goes bad, you will normally experience sluggish cranking as well as charging problems.

If cranking is OK but charging isn't, the problem may lie in the main B+ "flow" wiring from the alternator rather than the earth return. Note that this "loops through" the starter motor.
 

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I don’t have any jacks but did get underneath as far as I could both sides and on the passenger side there did look to be some wires, bare but were coated in a bit of oil. Could that be it?
 
Hi

The earth strap looks like the photo attached. It's only about 8 inches long and is bolted one end to the gearbox and the other end to the body/chassis. You need to take off the air filter to access from above.
 

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Just done a little video. This is what its doing. Ignore the flickering lights , its just my phone refresh rate that's doing that. About 20 seconds after I stopped filming, the battery light came on. It did however start fine as usual. Please see my other post in "general" as it seems im missing some parts in the engine bay.

 
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Hi

After a bit of reading it would seem that Ducatos are programmed to raise the idle speed from the normal 800-ish to nearer 1200 if the ECU senses that the battery voltage (as measured at the ECU) is too low. This is presumably to boost the charge rate e.g. if you have a depleted battery in cold weather just after starting. The eventual illumination of the battery warning lamp suggests that this strategy isn't enough to overcome the problem.

This might mean a problem with the alternator or its wiring, preventing proper charging. The best way to check is to monitor the battery voltage (its under the passenger's feet) with a voltmeter, directly at its two terminals. Next best would be one of those plug-in monitors for the cigarette lighter socket. You should measure 14.0 to 14.5 volts under charging conditions with the engine running.

If the battery voltage measures OK it's still possible that the ECU is getting less voltage than it ought to, due to a poor connection, corroded fuse, faulty relay etc. The ECU has more than one 12 volt supply, so you would need to check out all of them.
ECUs internally regulate their 12 volts input down to typically 5 volts, so will still work OK down to about 6 volts input e.g. during cranking in very cold weather. Although this means they are fairly voltage tolerant, they will still "complain" if fed with too little for too long.
 
Just tested the battery with a meter. Engine off 12.01v. Engine running and it dropped to 11.8v and stayed there approx. Didn’t go up to 14v as it should do so looking like alternator?
 
Just tested the battery with a meter. Engine off 12.01v. Engine running and it dropped to 11.8v and stayed there approx. Didn’t go up to 14v as it should do so looking like alternator?
Hi Those voltages suggest that you are getting no charge at all from the alternator, and that the battery is rather discharged. If the wiring is all OK it looks like the alternator has a fault. Suggest you charge the battery with a mains charger so you can stay mobile till it's fixed.
 
Hi Those voltages suggest that you are getting no charge at all from the alternator, and that the battery is rather discharged. If the wiring is all OK it looks like the alternator has a fault. Suggest you charge the battery with a mains charger so you can stay mobile till it's fixed.
Yeah. Could the wiring that’s looped to the starter cause that issue? I’ll try get underneath later and have s as look at the wiring. How works I test the wire with the meter?
 
I think that in the case of the alternator working but there is a fault in the wiring from the alternator to the battery that the battery lamp would still go out. The lamp goes out when the D+ signal from the alternator goes to 12v as lamp will have same voltage both sides.
You could check the voltages on the B+ and D+ outputs on the alternator with the meter negative on chassis. Easier said than done of course.
 
I’ve just connected a jump lead from the engine to the body and made no difference. Also connected the black on the battery to the body and still no difference. Got it booked in next week at an auto electrician (£85 for a diagnostic 2/3hrs worth) and he has really good reviews. He said he will definitely tell me if it’s the wiring or alternator.
 
Auto electrician said the alternator had no output. Had a garage out on a 140a alternator today and it’s fixed the problem. He asked me if I wanted the 110 or 140 so opted for the 140a as it should charge the leisure batteries quicker when driving shouldn’t it? Also how can I check he has actually fitted the 140a as he’s charged me for it (£300 fitted).

I’ve tried taking a pic but it’s so tight there I only got this..
 

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Yeah. Managed to get the full code off the alternator. Looks like it’s a Bosch 140a. Going for about £175 on eBay so basically paid £125 for fitting. Looks like the mechanic has also tidied up some wires that were around there and not in their protective sheath. Just done a test engine off and the battery had 12.8v I think. With the engine running it had approx 14.2v. With everything on (main beam, hazards, radio etc it was still showing between 13.9v and 14.1v. Looks to be good then doesn’t it?
 
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