I buggered my new engine (engine seized)... Help?

[thunderfox5]

Hi guys!

I was in the process of swapping a T-Jet into my Punto MK2. Got the engine shipped to me from a scrapyard, and the engine arrived in good looking condition (externally).

Now, the engine was left on a workbench in my garage for a few months (5 months, maybe?) while I took care of everything I needed to make it fit. Upon observing my already swapped 1.2 16V I figured everything was pretty much the same on the gearbox side of the engine, so added 8V coils (the car was originally an 8V) and modified a flywheel from a 1.2 16V to fit the T-Jet, by slightly enlarging the bolt holes as the T-Jet uses M9 bolts.

Afterwards the flywheel was fitted to the engine (at this point I cannot recall for the life of me if the crankshaft turned or not... But I'm pretty sure that it didn't. The reason I say this is I applied a lot of force to the flywheel bolts while torquing them and that would have made it turn) and then the Punto standard 5 speed was mated to the block.

Now, the engine won't start. I tried engaging 5th speed and rocking the car back and forth to see if the engine was seized or mechanically stuck, but no movement whatsoever. I took the plugs out while doing this, and took a peek inside the combustion chambers. No aparent signs of water getting in, which is a good thing, but the engine is not moving.

So... Assuming the engine is seized... What should I do now? Is there any way I can make it unstuck without having to open the damn thing?


Pics for reference:

 

[varesecrazy]

Hi,
there are things you COULD DO,
but the only REAL way is to pull it apart..,

as its not as if you'd used it for weeks, then came back after months at is was stuck.. it COULD be bad inside..

I know some LARGE rebuilt engined vehicles are that TIGHT they have to be TOWED with sparkplugs removed to get things "bedded-in" until the starter can actually crank them..,
but I suspect yours has a mechanical issue..,

Charlie

 

[thunderfox5]

I think I've figured it out. Was measuring some tolerances on the old engine (1.2 16V) and I think it was likely my fault. As mentioned the engine got a homemade SMF conversion, I think the bolts I used are not suitable.

According to my measurements, they should be the exact length that would cause the crankshaft to bind on the engine block. On the original engine there is a 3-4mm tolerance between the bolts, after being screwed in, and the block face. The ones I used together with the SMF conversion are likely binding against the engine block. It's merely a possibility but worth investigating.

Not looking to damage anything here, the engine was expensive. So I should be tearing it down again next weekend. Just wanted to get some ideas of what to look for.

 

[portland_bill]

You have to pull it apart.

Remove the gearbox and see if the flywheel turns.
If yes, the problem will lie with the distances between flywheel and gearbox that makes it tight as the box is fitted.
If no, then next step is to remove the flywheel and try to turn the engine without it.
Hopefully then, it will turn and show nothing seized in the engine.
If fitting the flywheel stops the engine rotating, check carefully the dimensions of the flywheel, from its mounting face to all other faces. You need to find what is binding. Your 'new' bolts are a very likely suspect.

If you've replaced bolts on anything as vital as this, ensure they are of the same grade. Most bolts on a car are 8.8 and may have this in the bolt head, or nothing. Some important ones, suspension for example, use higher strength 10.9. These should have 10 on the bolt head. If the original flywheel bolts are 10, make sure your new ones are also 10, before cutting them to length.

 

[thunderfox5]

These ones I got directly from FIAT, suitable for this particular engine. Except I used a Punto flywheel modified for the SMF conversion (see photo above) which should be slimmer than the original DMF flywheel used in the T-Jet.

I actually went and checked against a bare stock 1.2 16V engine (my old one). The allowed clearance is 3-4mm before it binds the crankshaft against the block. I'm preeeeeety sure that's right about the difference in length between the M8 bolts used in most FIRE engines, and the M9 used in the T-Jet block. So that would be my primary suspect right now.

We'll see next weekend when I pull the gearbox.