Technical hubs and bearings

[Louie Bee]

Hi All,

Just finished fitting new front wheel bearings to the MK1 carriers and noticed that the hub nearly fell off the bearing on the second one.

When I re assembled it, I noticed that the outer half is not an interference fit to the hub (unlike the first one I did). it's not dead sloppy but it sometimes turns freely when it shouldn't

My question is,

Should I fit a new hub, or will it sort it's self out when I get it on the car with the drive shaft and hub nut in place

I'd a used one off the 1.0IE but they are too small I'd a used one off the MK2 I broke but the threads for the wheel bolts are stuffed :bang:

 

[rawill]

Should I fit a new hub, or will it sort it's self out when I get it on the car with the drive shaft and hub nut in place

IMO it will not sort itself out.

I would either, get the hub metal sprayed to take up some "slack"

Loctite it in, the outer shell must not turn! or you will have trouble.

Finally if all else fails sadly it will need a new hub.

But, have you checked that the outer diameter of the outer shell is correct.
It is highly unlikely it is wrong, but check with a micrometer anyway.

Sometimes new parts can be wrong.

 

[alexGS]

In that situation (I've had the same with a gearbox bearing) I would just put it in with Loctite.

There is a specific Loctite product for this - basically a grey two-part epoxy, called 'Bearing Fit' or some such. You work for a technical/engineering company - I'm sure you have the contacts for the Loctite wholesaler

But any type of threadlocking/anaerobic sealant would also work.

-Alex

 

[Louie Bee]

Getting stuff from where I work is more trouble than it's worth

the black burned on grease should have told me that it won't sort it's self

However I got some advice and the above was mentioned (Thanks guys!)

Another option (as well as paper shims) was to use a centre punch to distort the hub a little to make an interference fit . did that as I was told the industrial locktite would spoil my chances of a future bearing change .

Metal spray would probably be more costly then a new hub.

Hubs / carriers now on, with drive shafts fitted though all needs torqueing up. had a split CV boot to contend with but that was easy!! just a pain cleaning it all out but I think I tore it my self , so no water ingress.

bit of a late finish

 

[rawill]

Hope the centre punch thing works. I didn't suggest it as with some road work the dimples may get flattened and the bearing cone may start to turn. keep and eye on it and be ready to loctite it.

I think you would find a way to get the old cone out if you had to do it again. Heat cold, and pressure etc.

A way to unfreeze frozen parts is to heat to red hot and dowse with water. Not that I am suggesting this for hubs and cones, but there are ways to get loctite broken.

 

[SteveNZ]

IMO you should have replaced the hub. It wont last as long. The bearing race will eventually work loose and spin or "rock" about. The cv nut is then the only thing holding it together and it will become loose as the race/hub wears out and or rocks around. It's all down hill pretty fast from there. Ive found the CV nut can go loose after only a few days. This is a pretty common problem on some Japanese cars, they usually start making worn CV noises and the hub rocks about.

 

[Louie Bee]

Suppose your right guys .

AS the first half of the bearing trac was a good tight fit on the hub I don't fancy my chances of it coming off in one piece.

Now that the other half the bearing trac is on tight, it would most likley be new bearing and new hub .

May see how it goes for now It was OK before I started and must have been :bang: already

 

[SteveNZ]

If its all back together you have nothing to loose by just using it. Just worry about it when/if it needs doing again.