Technical Hesitancy

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Technical Hesitancy

I think using the non-choke just makes the idle turn rough and the engine threaten to cut out. I'll have another look at the weekend.

I am working my round the options again....starting with the carb (recreated one from some spares), then electrics (leads, plugs, points, condensor), then fuel pump. I am trying one thing at a time and am determined to isolate the issue although am not overly confident. If no joy I may have to bite the bullet and go for the electonic option (assuming it is easy to do??)
 
If no joy I may have to bite the bullet and go for the electonic option (assuming it is easy to do??)

If, by "the electronic option", you mean the complete 123 distributor, it is easy to fit. But if by doing so you cured your problem (no guarantee!), you would have had the same result by sorting out the then diagnosed fault with your existing distributor.

Inside the distributor you will be aware that there are various parts which pivot and move under the centrifugal force of its rotation. These can stick or suffer damage which might cause unusual running faults.

So before replacing or modifying the distributor it would be good sense to have a look at the internals if you haven't done so already. I'm sure we will rustle up some guidance if it's an area you're not familiar with.
 
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Thanks as always...yes before replacement I will be checking the component parts.

At the moment I am stuck with the carb still but perhaps it would be better to ask my question on the specific weber thread...

I may be back here when that is sorted (and if it doesn't solve the running problem).

So, switching channels....
 
So I've got to the point where you can say "I told you so!"

Having started with the carb as a potential source of the running issue, dismantled it, cleaned it out, discovered a warped bottom, raided my spares to find a flatter one, smoothed it down, rebuilt a carb, refitted it and then discovered it leaked fuel, bit the bullet and bought a new carb, fitted it and the car started well and with no fuel shooting out I thought things may be OK. I left it to warm up and adjusted idle etc. Still didn't run smoothly though with occasional drops in revs so didn't risk a drive.

So moved onto option b and raided my spares again and tried a different condensor.

OMG...what a difference!!!!
We went for a great long drive and Luigi pulled well up hill and down dale We sailed past all the crowds of idiots sitting together by the river and waved at everyone out in their convertibles :)

I suspect the condensor was the issue all along and had been getting worse over time.

Several of you had suggested this....so thanks...and here's your chance to gloat :)

When I get a moment I will follow the further advice and splash out on a swiftune one.

I just hope I am not tempting fate in saying all this.

Thanks again for putting up with my idiocy and for all your help.

Until next time..... ;-)

Keep safe
 
Andrew---not idiocy, just somebody needing help. It is what we are here for. I used a "Swiftune" condenser on my distributor before I put a "Hall effect" electronic unit in it. I gave it to my friend in Italy (an American, asking an Englishman, in England to help sort out his Italian car in Italy with an English part--you couldn't make it up!). He has had no susequant problems with it. I have since fitted another "Swiftune" condenser on my spare distributor, by the very simple method of using a slightly longer screw to secure the new condenser in the same place as the old unit, and earthing out the 'earth' lead by simply putting it between the 2 parts of the 'P' bracket that holds the "Swiftune" condenser---simples.
 
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