Technical Help. FR HUB STUCK

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Technical Help. FR HUB STUCK

Joined
Oct 2, 2024
Messages
15
Points
57
Location
Buckley
Ok i did rear hubs cple months ago no issues , but i was having lots trouble with FR wheel, throwing bolts , noises I've got to the hub main bolt came out easy but the hub is not nudging I've piled it with wd40, I got crowbars, extended poles, reinserted bolts, then with nut & bolts did the tightening of m10 bolt , washer and nut on reverse(bolt wouldn't fit in gap 1st but it's took 10 hrs straight to create a space in between knuckle and hub to fit it. But still I'm at about 5mm gap, do I just persist in edging it mm at a time? Missing me right of it is. P.s all my threads are knackered on hub.
 
Model
Tjet 1.4 turbo petrol
Year
2011
Mileage
78000
Ok i did rear hubs cple months ago no issues , but i was having lots trouble with FR wheel, throwing bolts , noises I've got to the hub main bolt came out easy but the hub is not nudging I've piled it with wd40, I got crowbars, extended poles, reinserted bolts, then with nut & bolts did the tightening of m10 bolt , washer and nut on reverse(bolt wouldn't fit in gap 1st but it's took 10 hrs straight to create a space in between knuckle and hub to fit it. But still I'm at about 5mm gap, do I just persist in edging it mm at a time? Missing me right of it is. P.s all my threads are knackered on hub.
Can you do a couple of photos so we can see better?:)
 
Last edited:
Removing the hub destroys the wheel bearing so you will need new wheel bearing too.
The complete knuckle/hub carrier assembly needs removing from car.
 
Removing the hub destroys the wheel bearing so you will need new wheel bearing too.
The complete knuckle/hub carrier assembly needs removing from car.
Thanks jack, I think I understand what Futchy is trying to do here.

I think he's telling us the threads are damaged where the wheel bolts screw in. This will require a new hub flange and what he's trying to do is get the old hub out of the inner bearing races of the wheel bearing then fit a new one?

As Jack says above, removing the hub/flange will usually destroy the wheel bearing as the inner race usually comes out still attached to the hub and all the balls fall out, often damaging the grease seal into the bargain. If 'twer me I'd be removing the hub/upright complete and using a press to push the hub out and press what's left of the bearing out. There are kits for doing this stuff without removing the upright from the car which consist of a big threaded bar and "nut" with spacers and washers. I've never used one and I've always done it with a workshop press. Be careful to press only on the outer race when installing the new bearing because if you push on the inner race you can damage the race tracks by "dimpling" them.

A couple of the local small independents around me are happy to do it for me if I strip the upright from the car and drop it off with them at very reasonable rates. So now I just do that but do the stripping of the assembly and subsequent reinstalling on the vehicle myself. You may well find someone near you would do the same for you. If you've not done one before they can be difficult with rusted in circlips and you can damage the new bearing in several ways if not careful. Good luck with it whatever you decide to do.
 
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