Technical Help! Brava 1.2 80SX wont start

[maximoke]

Hi everybody. I recently bought a 1999 Vreg 1.2L 16V 80SX brava, which had a head gasket problem. I have replaced the gasket, skimmed the head, replaced the timing belt and tensioner, and cammed it up using equal length rods in cylinders 1&2, and locked the cams, but the car wont start. So far I have managed to ascertain I have fuel at the injectors (the pump runs on ignition turn on) it also comes out of the valve on the fuel rail. I have spark on all four plugs, and they are wet when removed. I have re-moved ALL fuses around the car and cleaned them and their holders (none gone by the way), the crankshaft sensor reads 840ohms, and the pulley is fitted correctly with the pin etc. I have all connectors reconnected, and I have also just for luck, even though the fuel pump is running, pressed the fuel cut off relay. If anyone here can help with something I might have missed, or have suffered the same fate please help.:bang:

 

[rallycinq]

Any spitting back or just nothing at all.

Cheers

SPD

 

[maximoke]

There is the occasional glimmer of hope, hope generally nothing. I flattened the battery yesterday, so it was on charge overnight, and tonight when I get in I will check the ECU earth point. Although, I would imagine if it's sparking it would be ok? Cheers for reply. :bang:

 

[Thrisey]

Dose it spin really quickly as if there is no compresion in cylinders?

I am guessing all Valves have been replaced correctly, and when T/Belt was put back on and timed you did a manual engine turn with a spanner to make sure timing marks line up after a complete cycle was turned.

Are both Camshafts opening the right valves when they should be, off the top of my head it is the exhaust shaft that is driven from the belt, you then have a set of dogs on right hand side {coil side] which transfere the turn to the inlet valve shaft, did you mark these when you took it apart to get it skimmed, it may be possible to time this engine on the exhaust valves but the inlet may be opening late or early as they are a tooth out on the coil side.

If it is spinning fast - no compresion, then squirt a bit of oil into the spark plug holes, replace plugs give it a few mins to run around the piston rings, and try a start, this usually forces it to "have Compresion" and start. this only works if the no start problem has come from engine full or part rebuild and cylinders are dry, unburnt fuel can also "wash" what is left of old oil from the cylinder walls again no compresion, don't put loads in, just a little squirt and try and aim it twards the side of the pistons no direct on top it will just sit there then and do nothing, we usually do this before the head goes back on, it is easier than down spark plug holes, only works if every thing else is ok this trick only aides start up compresion until the engine itself takes over.

 

[maximoke]

Eureka! This evening I put in a freshly charged battery, used the red key and noticed that the code light remained on (previously I was using the blue key and the code light was going out after a few secs of ignition. Anyway turned the key and away she went. I had used the red key yesterday but i guess the battery was at fault as there was not enough cranking power. I did notice however that the code light was still on as the engine was running, but it soon went out when I turned off, locked up and then used a blue key again. Anyway, all good now, and I have to do fit a new water pump as did not know it was leaking! Thanks for replies. It just goes to show the red key is VERY important.

 

[maximoke]

New water pump fitted, timing belt re-cammed correctly again, and all covers refitted. Even managed to get handbrake adjusted properly. It goes for MOT tomorrow. So heres hoping, should not be too much as it looks very sound. Thanks for help and info. MAXIMOKE