Technical Head gasket?

[Dragon Man]

while you are in the top of the engine, make sure your oil spray bar is nice and clear. i had a fire engine with severe top end tick caused by the spray bar being blocked.

 

[tobywood13]

Everything is back together now, and after a few attempts at getting the timing right and a suspicious misfire on cylinder 1 (fouled plug), the Panda is now running again. I've had it up to temperature, it is holding nicely and there aren't any signs of contamination in the radiator or oil cap, so the new gasket seems to have sealed well. Now I just need to replace the thermostat gasket, as that is now leaking since being removed and refitted, and it should be alright to go out for a test drive.

I'll take it easy for the first few hundred miles just to let everything get settled nicely. I think it is running differently, but that's probably because I was used to it running with a little bit of water intrusion into cylinder 1. I'm hoping now that my fuel economy should increase a bit, and the power might be a little better too. Time will tell.

Hopefully I'm not back on here in a week or two complaining that the gasket's gone again!

 

[bugsymike]

Everything is back together now, and after a few attempts at getting the timing right and a suspicious misfire on cylinder 1 (fouled plug), the Panda is now running again. I've had it up to temperature, it is holding nicely and there aren't any signs of contamination in the radiator or oil cap, so the new gasket seems to have sealed well. Now I just need to replace the thermostat gasket, as that is now leaking since being removed and refitted, and it should be alright to go out for a test drive.

I'll take it easy for the first few hundred miles just to let everything get settled nicely. I think it is running differently, but that's probably because I was used to it running with a little bit of water intrusion into cylinder 1. I'm hoping now that my fuel economy should increase a bit, and the power might be a little better too. Time will tell.

Hopefully I'm not back on here in a week or two complaining that the gasket's gone again!

After giving it a run just run over it with a few spanners to make sure all tight and good.

 

[Mike1alike]

Don't forget to perform a Phonic wheel reset, using MES, as you had the timing belt down.
I think Self-adaptation reset would help, too. Just 'Execute' them both and the new parameters would set afterwards.
Check the 'Spark advance reduction', that will tell you if you got the timing it right. When timing is right, SAR is zero. If SAR is on positive value means camshaft is forward, if it's on negative value, camshaft is backward.

 

[Pugglt Auld Jock]

After giving it a run just run over it with a few spanners to make sure all tight and good.

But don't touch the head bolts!

Don't forget to perform a Phonic wheel reset, using MES, as you had the timing belt down.
I think Self-adaptation reset would help, too. Just 'Execute' them both and the new parameters would set afterwards.
Check the 'Spark advance reduction', that will tell you if you got the timing it right. When timing is right, SAR is zero. If SAR is on positive value means camshaft is forward, if it's on negative value, camshaft is backward.

Don't think that's a factor with the early engines? This is one of the original FIRE engines which have keyed cam and crank pulleys and are timed using marks on the cam and crank pulleys - no locking tools used. Never did a relearn on either of the one's I owned. In fact, no Phonic wheel relearn catered for? Ah, the simplicity of it all!