General Hatch wiring thoughts

[steveras57]

Hi everyone
Having read through hundreds of the hatch wiring issues common to our 500,s I dont know why this didn't occur to me before but thought id share it now!
As many of us know a major problem is when the old plastic sheathing in the hatch deteriorates and breaks up leaving wire exposed and causes shorts and can-bus problems galore!.
I did check my car(2012) when i got it 4 years ago and was surprised to find that it seems to be on original wiring and no signs of either repairs or cracking or breaks in the insulation , guess i just got lucky but this leads me to a simple thought on possibly why its not cracked or broken since then in my ownership! and it comes down to this which is my boot closing technique! simply I lower the boot by hand until its about 2 inch's from closing then lower it to the catch and hand push it shut! once i thought about what i do, i decided to observe others closing there boots, and in the majority of cases (24 out of 26 observations) car- parks, supermarkets etc) nearly everyone slammed it shut from fully open with a bang!.
My point being that if the wirings old and tenuous the shock and vibrations of slamming the boot shut is very likely to jar the wires to the point of the insulation dropping off and the problems we all know about! so my point/advice to EVERYBODY old or new to this is close your boot with care and thought- and you might avoid some of the issues many have encountered!
just saying!
stay well all!.

 

[A3jeroen]

Ever since I put in the repairset with siliconwiring, there is absolutely no problem with my wiring.
However... I am a big fan of not slamming the hatch (or any other door or bonnet)

gr J

 

[Ralf S.]

I tend to drop mine to about 3/4 distance with the strap (a spot where holding the strap becomes awkward and where there is enough drop momentum to close the boot when I release it.. then I release it.

Last time I checked Rasputin (2013 vintage) it also looked fine.. but I suspect the boot just has not been used all that much, judging by the condition of the painted metal seat backs.


Ralf S.

 

[jrkitching]

but I suspect the boot just has not been used all that much

I think that's basically it.

Repeatedly bending the wiring through a sharp angle causes it to break. It's a classic fatigue fracture.

The more the hatch is opened and closed, the sooner the wiring fails.

There's a similar gotcha with the door mirrors, but it's much less often reported, likely because folks don't often fold them.

 

[Jockstrap]

Devil's advocate. Slamming is irrelevant to the wiring.
Frequency of hatch opening and closing combined with due care and climate.
As jrkitching notes with mirrors. My 2008, almost 100k miles, boot immaculate including wiring.
Passenger mirror
Large part of car history regular service, single female business manager.
Use it or lose it, but don't abuse it.

 

[jrkitching]

Frequency of hatch opening and closing combined with due care and climate

Temperature is hugely relevant to fatigue failure.

Opening it once when it's below freezing might do more damage than opening it ten times on a summer's day.

 

[steveras57]

Glad i opened this box!

 

[Piccolo Nero e Bella]

I can see your point mate, and it may have merit, but I'd maintain that car doors, hatches, bonnets and boots are designed to be slammed to ensure positive latching. I tend to lower the boot-lid to about four or five inches before letting it drop, trying to hit that sweet spot that'll latch it without undue impact - same with the doors and bonnet. I used to always close the latter the way you describe but the flimsiness of the Twinnies bonnet causes me to fear denting it!

 

[Jockstrap]

My Owner's Handbook pages 53 and 56 specifies procedures for closing tailgate and bonnet.
Tailgate lower and press to secure, bonnet drop from 20cm.
Simples .