Handling - and new v part worn tyres?

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Handling - and new v part worn tyres?

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I'm wondering how much better the handling of a car will be if it gets new tyres.

I'm trying to compare 4 used but still legal tyres to 4 new tyres.

What do you think? Will the handling be noticeably better? And why?
 
I'm wondering how much better the handling of a car will be if it gets new tyres.

I'm trying to compare 4 used but still legal tyres to 4 new tyres.

What do you think? Will the handling be noticeably better? And why?

There's legal...and there's part worn and there's also aged tyres.

So legal i.e. 1.6mm across 75% of the tyre there's a significant difference in wet weather performance between that and a new tyre. New tyre will be several metres shorter in the stopping distance in heavy rain.

But conversely dry weather performance you'll probably find the 1.6mm tyre has more grip and a shorter stopping distance being closer to a slick.

However..the age of the rubber also makes a difference so as tyres age they lose their plasticity this both reduces their grip and increases rolling noise.

On one of ours we've got 4 x 3 year old tyres at around 4.5mm there's still plenty of meat on them and they are still flexible. Changing to a brand new set of the same will likely yield little difference perhaps slight improvement in wet weather but they don't noticeably aquaplane at present, worse dry performance and slightly less noise perhaps.

On the other we have 4x brand new of the same tyre, this made a huge difference as the ones coming off were actually brand new but finest gutter seekers on the front and 4 year old cheapies on the back. In this case changing the tyre was like changing the car in terms of grip and noise.
 
Interesting reply.

I've been firmly of the mind my GP handled better than my EVO, until today, but now i think the roles have reversed. That must be because the EVO has the newer tyres. I was convinced that giving the GP new shocks and struts out weighed the tyre effect, but it seems not.

It could also be the weather effect, it was very wet today, as i'm sure you noticed lol.

I'm slowly converting to using part worn tyres purely on a cost basis, my bad...
 
If it's raining the great flood then tread depth is king, design and compound make a difference but you need tread depth to move water and stop aquaplaning.

The Evo did have updates to the suspension etc over the grand so there's a lot of variables not just tyres here.

But in general good tyres are the easiest way to improve a car if it's got a slightly iffy set on.

Also while people will swear they are all the same...

Sometimes you do indeed get what you pay for.

 
The concept of shaving a tyre down to test them i like! (from the video) And i do believe a worn premium tyre can be better than a new budget tyre in many circumstances.

I recently bought two part worn tyres, one was indeed part worn, the other a re-tread. The re-tread has a deep tread, but its already tearing a little.

When I finally get my 500X on the road i'll need new tyres on the front, the rubber has gone quite hard on these, so like you say they'll not be so good in the summer.
 
They won't be particularly good in winter either if the rubber has gone hard.

A hard compound doesn't grip well in cold weather indeed this is why winter tyres are soft compound and heavily siped.

There's loads of tyre info on that YouTube channel trying many many different things.
 
I tend to bin tyres at 3mm...beyond that I find them a bit marginal.

Although that's not necessarily tread depth, with an annual mileage of about 6k a year easy miles 3mm is about a 6 year old tyre if you've rotated them at which point they've usually hardened up a treat.
 
I can't say with any reliability i've ever got 30,000 miles out of new tyres. But my intuition says its a lot less. I've only recently discovered i've been running my Punto front tyres with the pressure a little low. I'd studiously put them up to 30 psi, but i should have had them at 32. Oh well! lol.

I really should buy a tyre depth gauge and record tyre pressure, mileage and depth together, to get some kind of handle whats going on with them.
 
I've got ones on the rear of the C3 at present that have been on since 2020 and done near 40k. I rotate them and the Goodyear's are a very low wear tyre (treadwear 600) on a very light car.

Over 4mm left on them but the edges are starting to get spidery cracks as they dry out and age so if I decide I'm keeping that car it probably needs treating to some new boots in the next year or so.
 
I've just bought a tyre depth gauge, for £3.83 i don't need to think about it for too long. I almost bought a digital one, but i don't think thats necessary, it'd be running out of batteries. So i bought a stainless steel one, hopefully it won't rust or break while lost among my other tools :)
 
Boot of the Toyota has a pressure gauge, tyre depth gauge and a foot pump in the left hand wheel arch storage.

Two of those get used weekly although the depth gauge not so much given it's very much a steady state thing. Although if you're doing you own alignment...3 measurements across the surface should highlight issues.
 
Boot of the Toyota has a pressure gauge, tyre depth gauge and a foot pump in the left hand wheel arch storage.

Two of those get used weekly although the depth gauge not so much given it's very much a steady state thing. Although if you're doing you own alignment...3 measurements across the surface should highlight issues.

Hmmm, interesting that you mention tyre depth measurements across the surface, i hadn't thought of that.

Can't mention home alignment on here...but lets just say both my EVO and GP are 100% aligned and i didn't go to a garage :D
 
I had new front boots on the Panda for the first time last year and was quite surprised at how much sharper it was on initial turn-in in the dry.

Usually I would stick new tyres on the rear and swap the old rears to the front. But just happened to need a full set of four tyres for once (I'd been chasing uneven rear tyre wear).

So I'd only ever had tough old rubber on the front before.

New tyres were Kumho summers, mid range, nothing special.

But the effects of new soft rubber was quite an eye-opener at the first proper corner I came to! Had no idea a Panda could be so responsive:)
 
I'm going to get a couple of new tyres this week. I think its time, because i'm mostly driving the EVO with good tyres it unnerved me a little to drift across the road yesterday in the GP. In hindisght that was probably the wind, but it was a reminder to look at the tyres, which are OK, but on the cusp of MOT fail.

I'll get the tyre depth gauge today, and have a deep dive lol
 
First thing I feel at the wheel when front tyres are getting marginal is understeer in the wet on a tight bend like a roundabout.

But the legal limit is really for wet weather braking performance. Anything under 2mm is basically inadequate in an emergency.

Our resident tyre man Jock wrote an interesting article on this not too long ago.

If only getting two new tyres I would advise putting them on the rear. Understeer you can deal with, swapping ends is a different story
 
Rear right.

IMG_20251005_100438.jpg



Front left

IMG_20251005_100528.jpg



Rear left

IMG_20251005_100430.jpg



Front right

IMG_20251005_100449.jpg


The front fright is new, the front left is old, but has lots of tread. The rears not so good.

It appears I don't have to do a switch around as such, just get the rears done to prevent oversteer.
 
Don't like the look of the front left either...

It may have plenty of tread but you can see the spidery cracks at the base of the tread blocks so it's pretty old and also the remains of siping that suggests you're running a winter and 3 summers. Also worn out for a winter is 3mm.

Depending on weather and temperature you will have different grip levels if turning left or right.

On cold day it may stop pulling to the left...and hot day pulling to the right to give an extreme example although it looks properly hardened up so possibly not that bad.
 
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First thing I feel at the wheel when front tyres are getting marginal is understeer in the wet on a tight bend like a roundabout.

But the legal limit is really for wet weather braking performance. Anything under 2mm is basically inadequate in an emergency.

Our resident tyre man Jock wrote an interesting article on this not too long ago.

If only getting two new tyres I would advise putting them on the rear. Understeer you can deal with, swapping ends is a different story
Resident tyre man Jock? Fame at last! Many of you will know my thinking on these things and there's lots of sensible comment above. There's two observations I'll make here though and one is that you've no way of knowing the history of a part worn. Some drivers abuse their tyres something rotten and this can significantly weaken it's integrity. I don't want to be the one that finds this out at 70mph in heavy traffic on the M6! So I will never buy a part worn. There used to be a large warehouse not so far away from me which was piled high with part worns. He quoted me a "silly" price to supply and fit the new tyre I was looking for so I took him up on his offer. It was immediately obvious doing new tyres was a novelty for him, there was not one new tyre on his premises that I could see - he did a decent job of fitting it, with the paint "blob" in the right place, but the balance was a bit sketchy and I got it rebalanced after living with it for about a month. Anyway, I had a good look round his stock while he was handling my purchase and was quite surprised to see a goodly number of the tyres were well past the half worn mark. They still looked really good because they had evenly worn treads with, apparently good tread depth, but when just visually inspecting tread depth you need to factored in that the tyre is illegal at 1.6mm (a new tyre will have around 7 to 8 mm, most are around 8mm tread depth) so a tyre with 4mm tread depth is not half worn as it only has 2.5mm useable tread left! Worth mentioning also, that in a series of tests I was involved in many years ago, we found that when tread depth went below around 2mm wet weather performance on a properly wet, but not totally flooded, road surface became very poor. So I try to renew my tyres when the tread is around the 2mm and certainly well before it reaches 1.6mm. With this in mind, if I were to buy a "half worn" tyre, say with 4mm tread depth still on it, I would be actually buying a tyre with only 2mm useable tread! So, as I tend to change my tyres in sets of 2 or 4, so I always have a balanced set across an axle, I will be changing them when the most worn tyre is at this level so the one on the other side of the car may still have half a mil or so before getting down to my self imposed limit. I place safety for self and family - and others - way above the saving made by running the tyres down to 1.6mm though.

The other thing I think is worth thinking about is that the Chinese/far eastern tyre manufacturing plant and technology has moved on massively in recent years. So much so that there are now some surprisingly (to me) good product arriving on our shores these days. Also there are some good quality British brands being manufactured in China and other eastern countries using absolute state of the art factories and processes - For instance Davanti. https://davanti-tyres.com/about/ to name just one. I think it's important to separate recent production from historic though and I'd be one of the first to say I've had some pretty terrible cheapo tyres in the past which originated in the far east. However, thinking about recent acquisitions, I've had Sumitomo tyres on one of my cars which were as good as any and my boy now has a set of 4 on his Audi A4. They were only fitted a week ago but he's reporting very favourably on them: https://www.sumitomotires.com/Home/default and the Falkens: https://www.falkentyre.com/en/company/production-facilities I had on the Ibiza, which I think are manufactured by Sumitomo, were excellent in all respects except I found them a little more noisy on some road surfaces compared to the original fit Bridgestones. What I can't do is advise you on which are worth buying and which to avoid because there are so many different brand names. A big clue might be though that if they are "super cheap" they might be best avoided.
 
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Another small point re S/H tyres where not directional there is a 50% chance the tyre will be going in the opposite direction to what it has done for the majority of it's life.
Some disagree, but in the 1980s a friend of mine started a S/H tyre business so I was able to see first hand the rapid sidewall deterioation , which apart from Jocks very valid points I strongly agree S/H is very false economy.:(:(:(
 
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