Panda Front end road noise

[Multiodd]

Hello,
I've got a Dynamic and 100hp. Both have a general low down humm from the front of the car it seem more than just the road. The 100hp is worse and it does change with road surfaces, but it is my main gripe with the Panda - front road noise.
If anyone can advise on this I'd be greatful.

 

[koalar]

tyre brand ?? tyre pressure ??

My new ones are 68dB and there is a noticeable difference over 72dB


but still noisy on some roads

 

[dac69er]

The 100hp does seem particularly bad compared to other cars I have driven.
The noise from the engine is quite loud sometimes too.

The type of tire and how worn they are makes a big difference. Never really noticed tire pressure made much difference as long as they are somewhere near what they should be.

I've just got used to it

 

[A3jeroen]

The noise from the engine is quite loud sometimes too.

Yeah! Don't you love it?

But seriously: They are quite wide. Aging of the tires makes them harder which results in more noise. I went from Dunlop fasresponse (DOT 09) to Uniroyal Rainsports (DOT 18) and they are less noisy. Bought them for the handling in the wet though.

Engine has the "Cooperman Induction"modification so thats pretty loud over 4000 Rpm.

Still looking forward to 1700Km to Croatia in e few months.

gr J

 

[DaveMcT]

I'm using General Sport tyres on the 100HP. The grip is good and tyre noise is very low

 

[Multiodd]

Thanks, the tyres are a little worn, so may get them replaced sooner rather than later. I will certainly pick ones with the lowest noise rating you've mentioned. Fitting new front wishbones too.

 

[DaveMcT]

Check the wheels are round. Mine are anything but.

 

[Multiodd]

I've fitted new goodyear 195/50/15's and they have considerably helped with the noise being 67db tyres too and the Panda 100's ride is now bordering on livable
Bought new wishbones, anti roll bar bushes, and inner and outer tie rods too, once they are done, I'm hoping for as good as you can get 100hp

 

[koalar]

well done.

2 or 3 dB doesn't sound like its worth bothering with when choosing tyres but the dB scale doubles every 10 dB or so.

 

[DaveMcT]

Reduction of 3dB halves the noise pressure.

Front wheel bearings are a pain to change but can be done without special tools though much easier with with a bearing fitting kit and you will need a 600mm breaker bar.

The inner race will get jammed, just slit it with an angle grinder are crack the race to remove it. If you grind too deep, new centre hubs are not silly money.

Rear wheel hub with bearings are only £30 each and dead easy to fit so worth doing anyway.

 

[Multiodd]

Yes, wheel bearings are another area i'd like to close off as an issue, but I'd need a press (not too pricey) and an angle grinder and like with a welding torch, but I would be concerned I could cut off something that may not grow back

 

[DaveMcT]

Rear bearings are a doddle just don't forget the spacer if you have a 100HP.

The fronts need the hub removing from the car and a proper bearing press. Ideally a hydraulic stand but you can get the screw type for reasonable money. I have not tried this but the bolt looks stronger than some.
https://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/vidaXL-2...=22221370574266ae66474fd345b2a26602633dadc335

 

[dac69er]

Rear bearings are a doddle just don't forget the spacer if you have a 100HP.

The fronts need the hub removing from the car and a proper bearing press. Ideally a hydraulic stand but you can get the screw type for reasonable money. I have not tried this but the bolt looks stronger than some.
https://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/vidaXL-2...=22221370574266ae66474fd345b2a26602633dadc335

Just done the rear bearing and was lovely and simple. What spacer are you on about??? There is one just before the nut but I don't know why that would be 100hp specific!?

 

[DaveMcT]

I did mine last year but if I remember correctly there was a thick washer under the retaining nut and another (with smaller outside dia) between bearing/hub and backplate. The drum brake version dont have a spacer.

I wanted to confirm on ePER but (as usual) its playing up.

 

[dac69er]

I did mine last year but if I remember correctly there was a thick washer under the retaining nut and another (with smaller outside dia) between bearing/hub and backplate. The drum brake version dont have a spacer.

I wanted to confirm on ePER but (as usual) its playing up.

Definitely had the washer under the nut, but shouldn't be anything between the back plate and hub as it has a radius where the bearing race seats???

 

[DaveMcT]

I did the job last summer so can't remember exactly but I'm sure there was a spacer about 5mm thick between rear disc brake back plate and hub.


I've had another look on the forum ePER but it's still playing up (again). Pretty useless TBH.

 

[A3jeroen]

Did mine about two years ago, but can't remember any extra spacers.

gr J

 

[DaveMcT]

I did the job last summer so can't remember exactly but I'm sure there was a spacer about 5mm thick between rear disc brake back plate and hub.

I've had another look on the forum ePER but it's still playing up (again). Pretty useless TBH.

Ive just managed to get into ePER. The 100HP axle isn't shown (I cant find it anyway) but the 1.2 Dynamic shows a spacer washer (item 3). So without seeing the disc brake setup, it looks like I had got confused which model uses it. Ive done wheels bearings on both cars.

 

[dac69er]

Could that be showing the abs ring As a separate item Perhaps?

A spacer definitely wouldn't work on the 100hp as it would put the alignment out on the brake disk and the carrier.

Could just be the drum brake version needs a bit of extra spacing to align it all correctly.

Either way, as long as you replace everything you remove, you can't go wrong with the rear bearings.

 

[DaveMcT]

Could that be showing the abs ring As a separate item Perhaps?

The ABS magnet ring is a thin brown magnetic strip glued to the bearing grease seal.

A spacer definitely wouldn't work on the 100hp as it would put the alignment out on the brake disk and the carrier.

I agree. ePER shows it's on the drum brake version. My 100HP must be right (spacer free) as the brakes both work.

Could just be the drum brake version needs a bit of extra spacing to align it all correctly.

It does.

Either way, as long as you replace everything you remove, you can't go wrong with the rear bearings.

Absolutely.