Technical fitting downpipe

[dizzy12]

is there a special way to fit a down pipe on my 1989 fiat ducato with a peugeout engine the fitting has 3 springs and wasers and nuts I have fittted 2 but cant compress the third one do I need to have the rest of the exhaust in place first

 

[bugsymike]

is there a special way to fit a down pipe on my 1989 fiat ducato with a peugeout engine the fitting has 3 springs and wasers and nuts I have fittted 2 but cant compress the third one do I need to have the rest of the exhaust in place first

I am trying to remember working on those Peugeots engines in Peugeots not Ducatos, I am guessing it is a new fitting kit with strong springs and a thick conical gasket that allows flange to move with engine rocking, if so all you can do is rock it around as much as possible to bed the new seal/gasket in place ( assume it is on all the way) then with the other two bolts only just caught on threads push or lever the exhaust pipe over as much as possible to take the load off the spring on the bolt you are trying to catch.
You may find pushing the bolt in place using a good socket and bar to do the final engagement on the threads, a bit of a test of strength.
I know on vehicles with only two spring loaded fittings it was hard enough and VW used a pair of spring steel U clamps that really took some effort to engage in their grooves.

 

[Communicator]

May not be precisely relevant, but my first MH was based on a 1990 Talbot Express (Peugeot J5). I suffered three exhaust failures in the first year from new.

I can only remember a ball and socket joint with flange and two, not three bolts between the downpipe, and the silencer/tailpipe. There were coil springs under the nuts. When the years? warranty expired I investigated with the aid of an official workshop manual. That joint had not been involved in previous repairs, but I found that the nuts had been overtightened onto the unthreaded portion of the bolts to the extent that they would not accept a standard 13mm? spanner.
The manual stated "tighten the nuts until the springs are coil bound, and then release one full turn". Applying this with new nuts did reduce exhaust failures, but the joint squeeked noticeably at tickover. Graphite, or was it molybdinum loaded grease was only a temporary cure.

All this happened over 25 years ago, so my memory may be slightly inaccurate.

 

[bugsymike]

May not be precisely relevant, but my first MH was based on a 1990 Talbot Express (Peugeot J5). I suffered three exhaust failures in the first year from new.

I can only remember a ball and socket joint with flange and two, not three bolts between the downpipe, and the silencer/tailpipe. There were coil springs under the nuts. When the years? warranty expired I investigated with the aid of an official workshop manual. That joint had not been involved in previous repairs, but I found that the nuts had been overtightened onto the unthreaded portion of the bolts to the extent that they would not accept a standard 13mm? spanner.
The manual stated "tighten the nuts until the springs are coil bound, and then release one full turn". Applying this with new nuts did reduce exhaust failures, but the joint squeeked noticeably at tickover. Graphite, or was it molybdinum loaded grease was only a temporary cure.

All this happened over 25 years ago, so my memory may be slightly inaccurate.

Yes that sounds very familiar with the Peugeot cars as well.
Thinking about it the 2.8iTD Ducato is the same.
The new conical gaskets came graphite impregnated also.