Technical  Fitting a new oil filter

Currently reading:
Technical  Fitting a new oil filter

rodmallia

New member
Joined
Apr 17, 2006
Messages
130
Points
16
Yesterday my girlfriend's dad changed the engine oil and filter (he's a quasi-mechanic) and even though yesterday there weren't any noticeable problems, this morning I found a nice puddle of fresh oil underneath the car; apparently the new oil filter was leaking juice. End-result: 4 litres of new Selenia Gold (₤14.45) oil down the drain... :( Apart from that, since this morning I drove the car before eventually noticing the leak, I ran the risk of busting up the engine since I was running on literally a few drops of oil! (this also means that I've got a nice mess underneath the bonnet as well since the oil was spurting all over the place...). Which ultimately means that I have to purchase 4 more litres of oil and a new filter :cry: (and I'm just a poor student!)

So my question is, how easy / difficult is it to fit correctly a new oil filter and avoid a mess and unecessary expenses? Any tips for avoiding all this hassle?
 
This is an old common prob as fiat made 2 different threads on the oil filters as i found out when i changed mine, the shop i bought mine from gave me both and i returned the wrong one, only one will spin freely on, go back to the shop and ask! good luck Ant!
 
Rod where is kalkara? wheres your flag? i like to see them and know where your from, quite a lot of members dont have a flag why!

Kalkara is a small village in the island of Malta. I do have Malta written down on that small profile on the left of the post. Don't know why, but the Maltese flag doesn't show up like the rest! :confused:
 
This is an old common prob as fiat made 2 different threads on the oil filters as i found out when i changed mine, the shop i bought mine from gave me both and i returned the wrong one, only one will spin freely on, go back to the shop and ask! good luck Ant!

Oh I see. I did tell the guy at the shop the car model as well as the model on the filter itself. Thought that would be enough! :bang:
 
Hm... I never had problems with oil filter thread on any of my two 45s or my brother-in-law 1.1 Fire :confused:, but I do not argue about two different threads.

I understand you disillusionment about the oil, but I think Selenia Gold is an expensive overkill for 999 Fire. The engine is built to use plain and simple mineral 15W40 API SF oil. I have been using local brand of 15W40 API SL for 7+ years in my 45s, thus in fact spoiling their engines with much better oil than required. Plus, these are much cheaper than Selenia oils ;).
 
HI Rod,
as obvious as it may seem make sure the filter is on tight. Also a good practice is to place some fresh oil along the inside of the filter. Put the filter in its place and tighten.

As with regards oil I know FIAT recommends selenia but I found it too thin for our climate. The car starts to work rougher after say 1500 miles. I used to use valvoline but now put BP, which I have found to be much better. With regards there being different threads for the oil filter I never heard of it before, but Im not excluding the fact that it may be true.

Ad
 
one has a course thread and the other is a finer thread, remove the filter and check if it has cross threaded and have a look at the threads, and compare it to your old one, you will be able to tell, did he have a problem in fitting it, did it spin freely? Ant!
 
As with regards oil I know FIAT recommends selenia but I found it too thin for our climate. The car starts to work rougher after say 1500 miles. I used to use valvoline but now put BP, which I have found to be much better.

Ad

Thanks for the info Ad. I've only had the car for a year now (also being my first car) so I've got no experience with regards oils and all that. I've been told by most people that I should use Selenia so I thought that I should listen to the majority. My fault for not consulting with you guys :eek:

I'll try using BP with my next oil change and see if there's any difference.
 
Last edited:
Hm... I never had problems with oil filter thread on any of my two 45s or my brother-in-law 1.1 Fire :confused:, but I do not argue about two different threads.

I understand you disillusionment about the oil, but I think Selenia Gold is an expensive overkill for 999 Fire. The engine is built to use plain and simple mineral 15W40 API SF oil. I have been using local brand of 15W40 API SL for 7+ years in my 45s, thus in fact spoiling their engines with much better oil than required. Plus, these are much cheaper than Selenia oils ;).

Will keep that in mind ;)
 
Problem solved!

The problem was not a different thread but a washer-problem. I took out the filter and guess what? *drum roll* he who took care of changing the oil and filter left the bloody washer of the old filter in its place! :eek: So when he fitted the new filter there were actually 2 washers on top of each other :eek: :mad:

Now I changed the filter and took care to have one washer safely in place this time. Everything seems to be doing fine now.
 
which washer? the rubber seal, sounded like he hamfisted the oil fiter on to me, sometimes they are tricky to get started alighning etc, now the jobs done good luck, get yourself a repair manual for future referance. they are the haynes and porter manuals, theres another but can't remember the name.
 
In all my years servicing Fiats, ive only seen about three different oil filters used on all the Fiat range!! Still same today.
When fitting a new filter, smear new oil on the new fixed seal on the outside and fill filter half with new oil and hand tighten only. Fit filter, and fill engine up so it is about 1 litre short. Start engine and run for a few seconds. Turn off, This will prime the oil filter and make finding the level easier. Do not over fill !! Leave for a while and re-check the level.

Andy.:)
 
which washer? the rubber seal, sounded like he hamfisted the oil fiter on to me, sometimes they are tricky to get started alighning etc, now the jobs done good luck, get yourself a repair manual for future referance. they are the haynes and porter manuals, theres another but can't remember the name.

Yep, that rubber seal.

Now I got meself the Haynes manual :worship: Will come in handy that's for sure :)
 
Yep, that rubber seal.

Now I got meself the Haynes manual :worship: Will come in handy that's for sure :)
That's a shocker. I've seen it happen once before though... and then I've seen something similar with a cam cover gasket (new gasket fitted while old one still stuck to cover).

I'm pleased it's a simple problem and that you probably caught it in time.

Incidentally, I always remove the rubber seal from the oil filter, and smear both sides lightly with oil. I like to think this helps it seat properly... I then use a towel to help with gripping the new filter, to tighten it as much as possible by hand.

On the bright side, your engine has now had a 'running flush' with clean oil, so although it seems a waste (and an ecological nightmare) it does have one advantage in that almost all of the dirty oil oil is now gone (diluted with the new and then changed again). Engines always retain about half a litre of oil even after you drain the sump.

If I'm working on an engine and the oil that drains out is really dirty, neglected oil, I will fill it with the very cheapest oil first and run it for a few minutes (doesn't have to be driven, as the engine will still be warm), then change the oil filter and finally refill with the 'proper' new oil. I feel that this method is better than adding an engine flush, since this method removes all the dirty oil (as mentioned) and cheap oils are about the same price as an engine flush anyway. You know the oil you sometimes have left over after filling? Well I save those leftovers, sometimes mixing them together, and then I use this to run the engine briefly for cleaning... you don't need the full 4L just to run the engine with the old oil filter still fitted, 2L will do. And finally, be careful with filling the FIRE since it's quite a small capacity - 3.5L if I remember correctly, not the usual 4.

Final tip/shortcut from me... it's usually best to drain the oil and change the filter with the engine hot (after a proper drive, not just around the block). BUT - some engines in other cars (not the Uno) are a PIG to get to the filter etc. because you burn yourself on the exhaust, etc. I chatted with a specialist about this and we both reached the same revolutionary conclusion - it isn't necessary for the engine to be hot to change the oil :rolleyes: When the engine was switched off, it was hot, so the oil drained to the sump... contaminants etc. will sink with this oil and then you drain it out of the bottom don't you... if anything you probably get a little more oil out after the engine has been sitting for some time... The oil will be slower to actually drain from the sump (because it is much thicker), but otherwise I see no reason why you couldn't change the oil with the engine cold. I still do it with the engine hot, but one day you might find a situation where it is hard to do this (not least of which, it might not be convenient at the time the engine's hot)...



PS. I agree with Andy, a year or so ago I bought three FRAM filters, one for my Alfa Romeo 164's 3L V6, one for my X1/9's 1498cc, and one for my Uno Turbo... and all three filters were the same part number! (I think it was PH4562). I decided to buy a fourth as a spare, and it was very convenient to have on hand when I decided to repair the sump gasket of my Uno Turbo one day... didn't have to make a trip to the shop...


-Alex
 
Last edited:
Back
Top