General FIAT UNO 999CC IE fire POWER MODULE

[cm246]

Hello
I recently bought from e-bay a 15bhp performance power module (celox). It should be connected either to the inlet air temperature or to the engine coolant temperature sensor. Could you please advise me were either of this is located because the haynes manual doesnt help much
cheers

 

[The Negotiator]

Possibly *oh dear* moment, where did you get it from and how much did it cost? To me it sounds like a rip off....

 

[The Negotiator]

Yep, sorry cm246 but it seems you have been ripped off - it's simple a resistor which will make the car run rich hence damage the engine/the ECU will adjust anyway. Completely useless and at worst damaging and causes loss in performance. There are numerous warnings for such a product on this forum but i don't believe any are in the Uno section,

for future reference the product is like so:

http://cgi.ebay.co.uk/ws/eBayISAPI.dll?ViewItem&category=32094&item=7946678228&rd=1&ssPageName=WDVW

I can't believe how much these people make from selling 5p resistors!

 

[JonnyBoy]

Sounds like another "+20BHP PUNTO UNO BRAVA BRAVO CINQUECENTO" eBay special. Sadly it's no more than ten pence worth of resistor. *sigh*

The theory is that you replace your intake air temp sensor with it and it tricks your ECU into thinking that the air is extremely cold so it increases fuelling and hence power.
DON'T waste your time fitting it though, it'll ruin your MPG, give you bugger-all power increase, and cause all kinds of problems with your fuel injection system. You've been had I'm afraid. There's a sticky in the Punto section about these useless things.

 

[cm246]

Thanks for your comments but as i have previously stated on the threads my engine cuts off when hot and i have heard various stories why this is happening.It might be the ECU it might be the single poiont injection system other said that it might be the lamda sensor. (all the above are opinions of mechanics that i took the car) Fiat dealer wants 90 pounds just to diagnose the problem which is ludicrous. So i thought that by installing this **** it might fix the problem.
now i will explain once more the problem with the engine
the engine when its cold runs perfect when warms up cut and you leave it on idle speed it cuts off if you press the accelerator with your feet while on idle speed the engine wont cut off.
Any ideas?

 

[The Negotiator]

Same problem (exactly) was caused on mine by a faulty vacuum advance unit. Other normal cause is the distributor.

Using this WILL NOT fix the problem it will probably just make it worse!

 

[cm246]

mate i changed 2 second hand distributors and put a new vacume unit too
but the problem is still ther

 

[The Negotiator]

Do you know whether the vac advanced was any good?

As I say, same symptons was caused by this, the reason why I came to FF.

 

[Bushboy]

on the distributor is a little metal modual thing thats got metal fins on it... unscrew this and check the wires inside.. if they are corroded then it needs replacing. it might be that you have been sold a dodgy distributor. just because the guy at the breakers said it was good doesnt mean it was

cutting out when hot can be 1 of 2 things. either the vacume advance unit which usualy causes the problem of the car reving irraticaly and cutting out at junctions from the irratic reving going to slow.

the other cause is when the wire in the electric modual has corroded (very common problem with old unos). there isnt a way to replace the modual on its own as it would require rewiring the unit to the distributor which is more hastle than its worth. easiest thing to do is just replace the distributor but before you do, open up the little modual and check that the wire is in one piece!

 

[cm246]

Thank you guys for your reply I am going to buy a new vacum on saturday and check the wires inside the electronic module of the pcb.
Do you know where i can find a new distributor in case i need one in a logic price?
?

 

[Bushboy]

just take one off an uno.. but check it over first (specialy the wires) or a breakers might have a reconditioned one etc.

cost about £35 for the whole thing

 

[Morty Mort]

I drove around with a faulty vacuum unit for over a year, no particular problems occured. It´s simple to check it. Pull the hose from it and suck and blow. (It didn´t sound very good, I know ) If it´s tight then it´s in order.

Morten.

 

[cm246]

sorry mate i didnt really understand the suck and blow thing!!!!!!
i took the tube off and i placed my fingertip in the tube and is sucking.
So if i unscrew the electronic module i wont damage the distributor?

 

[Luke]

sorry mate i didnt really understand the suck and blow thing!!!!!!
i took the tube off and i placed my fingertip in the tube and is sucking.
So if i unscrew the electronic module i wont damage the distributor?

you need to suck and blow to the actual vacuum unit. Basically all it is in the vacuum unit is a rubber diaphram. When they break they allow air to pass through causing problems. So if you suck and blow to test the diaprham is intact. if you can suck/blow alot through it then it'll need replacing. If it is gone, put a screw in the end of the rubber pipe for now to stop it causing problems till you get a replacement. I had it like this for about a year before buying a replacement

 

[ColinStrecker]

Hi, if you wash your engine and any of the power module pins get wet, it will cause the module to go faulty, also causes the pins to corrode and cause problems. A module that gets to hot will also cause the plug to melt.

The vacuum-advance unit is connected to a sliding pick-up coil with a four pointed turning magnet inside, indicating to the module then to fire, if that coil is cracked it will not operate at hot temperatures, because the crack becomes bigger as the engine heats up.

Good luck, i'm moving my module away from the distributor, engine heat is causing a lot of headaches.