Technical fiat uno 999cc idling problem

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Technical fiat uno 999cc idling problem

whiggy94

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how doooo! you lot seem very clued up so can anyone help me out. i have a 1993 uno 1.0ie fire with 113k on the clock which for the past few weeks every couple of days the idling speed sticks at high revs and the prob is getting worse. i wonder if it can be a sensor or something as most days its fine but today the revs just wouldnt slow down so obviously the car is using more fuel. turning the engine off then back on worked but today it didnt help at all. plus when its idling too fast and you try to set off ie: at lights etc its very hesitant as though it wants to stall. then the next day its running fine and idling at the normal speed when the engine is warm etc!! i'm at a loss so any advice what to check first is greatly appreciated! i've checked the accelerator cable and thats fine & not sticking either. thanks!
 
daft question but where's that usually? the fan is coming on more than usual but i suspect thats because the engine is revving too fast most of time.
 
whiggy94 said:
daft question but where's that usually? the fan is coming on more than usual but i suspect thats because the engine is revving too fast most of time.

I have no idea :D i own a carb version so dont have to worry about all these fiat electronic problems :p

Im sure someone with a fuel injected uno will be along to help sometime soon :) In the meantime, welcome to teh forum :)
 
Thanks mate, i cant complain tho as i've owned it since 1998 and its a great car. im sure someone will advise me on it soon. then i dont have to take it to the awful fiat dealer :mad:
 
whiggy94 said:
Thanks mate, i cant complain tho as i've owned it since 1998 and its a great car. im sure someone will advise me on it soon. then i dont have to take it to the awful fiat dealer :mad:

Its always a silly little thing that causes problems, so i wouldnt worry too much. As i said its usually the temp sensor that causes the revs to keep high
 
hello there!!
I also own a 999cc uno and i would suggest that is either the vacuum advance unit or the airflow sensor that is located on the injection unit. I dont to be honest with you i wouldnt know what you should do to fix the problem .
 
Are you aware of the throttle switch - apparently there is a switch that closes when the throttle is fully closed, so that the single injector fires half-as-often? Monty Mort seemed to be the expert on this, so I'm just repeating some of what he said - I've never seen one of these in real life (we have few Mk2s in NZ).

Sounds as though perhaps your switch is not being closed due to a throttle cable adjustment/sticking linkage... perhaps break out the multimeter and test that it is opening/closing properly?

-Alex
 
Hei.

Remove the air filter housing (complete air intake). One bolt on top if I remember correctly, and some clips on the aluminium cylinder head. Clips off the hose to the air intake and twist off the oil breather hose. There is also a little vacuum hose to be removed. Then - remove the whole thing.

Is the "carburettor" dirty? It should be white. Mine was so contaminated with oil from the breather it was turning black. In combination with dust and sand getting through the poor filter layout this was a nice obstacle for the fuel to enter the intake as it should.

Clean everything with some wd40 or gasoline etc.

Start engine. It´s ok without the air filter, breather hose and vacuum hose, but don´t drive around without it. Dirt will enter the comustion chambers and destroy cylinders etc.

Is the butterfly valve closing properly when idling? Is something preventing it from closing. Check the idle plunger on the back of the injection module (carburettor). When this is depressed the gasoline amount halvens, so you don´t have to stall when starting from a red light due to over-rich mixture. This idle plunger should be depressed when you let the foot off the pedal. Easy to check from engine bay - just twist the throttle cable "snailhouse" wheel to the left of the carburettor and check.

Morten.

Morten.
 
Hi again, the car was playing up again this morning so i had a look at it earlier and cleaned a few things etc with wd40 and greased the accelerator cable up. i cleaned the connectors onto the various sensors but then i noticed a small split in the pipe coming from the distributor to back of fuel injection unit. is this the vacuum unit or something? anyway i have taped it up for now til i buy some tomorrow. tried the car earlier and it was great the best its run for weeks and was idling perfect when warm so hopefully its sorted. thanks for the advice & help 2! just a quick question tho.... the split pipe i repaired does what? and would it affect the idling/running etc? (y)
 
The vacuum pipe I assume on yours is the one that runs from the distributer to the intake manifold. It is actually connected to a diapragm (vacuum unit), which in turn is connected to the base plate inside the distributer. What it does is advances/ retards the ignition timing depending on engine load - this is normally represented by the vacuum in the the manifold.

Under heavy engine load the timing needs to adjust, though I can't remember which way it goes ( I think it advances). The same applies to light throttle openings where the opposite will happen.

With a split pipe the vacuum advance unit is inoperative, therefore it won't adjust the timing as it it should. Normally it would cause poor tickover and stalling, but that might only be on the carburetor Unos that I am familiar with. Not sure about the SPI versions.

The ignition timing on a Uno is set at a low tickover speed (approx. 800rpm), with the pipe disconnected/ blocked at the distributer end. The engine doesn't like to run like this, but as soon as the pipe is reconnected it should run nice and smoothly.

What sometimes happens with a failed vacuum diaphragm/ split pipe is that people will adjust the ignition timing until the engine runs smoothly. Problem is, the timing will be out as a result! Might be an idea to check the ignition timing at the same time?

A new pipe can be bought from any motor accessory shop for literally pennies. Cut it to size, and replace your split pipe and you shouldn't have any problems. While you change the pipe, you might as well check the vacuum advance unit at the same time. With the pipe connected to the diaphragm, blow or suck at the other end. If you can feel resitance (a vacuum) then the unit is fine. If there is no resistance then the unit has failed and needs to be replaced.

Best of luck!

Chas
 
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