General Fiat ritmo idle screw

Currently reading:
General Fiat ritmo idle screw

Dalleb1001

New member
Joined
Apr 20, 2020
Messages
34
Points
14
Hello, i’’m currently trying to make my fiat ritmo ready by next summer and so far i’m close to being done. But i have a few problems.
One of them is that my engine dont stay in idle, it jost goes out, i’ve got a timing light to adjust the distributor so the spark plugs sparks at the right moment. But i’ve been told i also need to adjust the idle screw on my caburettor but i don’t know where it’s placed.

I’ve uploaded 2 images of my caburettor so you can see it
 

Attachments

  • E2B93EC9-35BC-4F73-802F-7B5315755B44.jpeg
    E2B93EC9-35BC-4F73-802F-7B5315755B44.jpeg
    3.2 MB · Views: 108
  • ECC67724-9E4D-4986-9BA5-2D321E678755.jpeg
    ECC67724-9E4D-4986-9BA5-2D321E678755.jpeg
    3.1 MB · Views: 46
There are two idle screws!

One controls the throttle plate and adjusts the RPM.

The other adjusts the Idle Mixture strength.

Both need to be correctly set.

In your first picture the throttle idle control screw is the screw with a spring around it's body just above throttle cable pulley cam.

In your second picture the idle mixture control screw is the recessed screw on the lower right of the carb body just below visible lever arm.

I also note it looks like you have an idle overrun shut-off solenoid. This is the cylindrical item with the red lead going into the back of it. This can affect idle as well.
 
There are two idle screws!

One controls the throttle plate and adjusts the RPM.

The other adjusts the Idle Mixture strength.

Both need to be correctly set.

In your first picture the throttle idle control screw is the screw with a spring around it's body just above throttle cable pulley cam.

In your second picture the idle mixture control screw is the recessed screw on the lower right of the carb body just below visible lever arm.

I also note it looks like you have an idle overrun shut-off solenoid. This is the cylindrical item with the red lead going into the back of it. This can affect idle as well.

Okay thanks i got it working now!

Also do you know where the mark on the crankshaft wheel should be placed? I can’t find any data on it. Currently it’s placed so it pointing up
 
The marker should be 3 raised lines on the cab belt cover by the pulley wheel.

However the more accurate way to find TDC is to remove the little square blanking plug on top of the gearbox bell housing. Here you should find 3 little notches/indents in the edge of the window. From left to right is 10 - 5 - 0 degree markings. Use the crank pulley to get near TDC then slowly rotate the crank and a notch should appear on the flywheel which you align with the 0 notch on the bell housing.

Did you solve the electrics problem yet?
 
The marker should be 3 raised lines on the cab belt cover by the pulley wheel.

However the more accurate way to find TDC is to remove the little square blanking plug on top of the gearbox bell housing. Here you should find 3 little notches/indents in the edge of the window. From left to right is 10 - 5 - 0 degree markings. Use the crank pulley to get near TDC then slowly rotate the crank and a notch should appear on the flywheel which you align with the 0 notch on the bell housing.

Did you solve the electrics problem yet?

Okay thanks and yes! All electronics problems are solved! ?
 
So what was it? Main battery to chassis earth connection as suggested?

Yes it was! Also i know that my Crankshaft have to point at 10 degrees before TDC, but i still can’t find the things you talked about, so i’m using my timing light and my guessing to hit the correct point, so far it runs very very good in idle, i can press the throttle and let go without the car going out or being close to dying, also it isn’t too high in RPM
 
Back
Top