Favourite grease?

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Favourite grease?

Righto, one it is. I was reading a thread you contributed to a couple of years ago, i think you or someone else suggested using cling film to prevent the leaks, that or putting the brakes on using a big stick against the pedal. I've used a big stick before so one or other should work.
 
LOL, i can well imagine the gaseous reaction!

The portion sizes were enormous as i remember. The whole plate was filled and it didn't look like a small plate. And it came with a pot of tea/coffee.

Its interesting that you recall times having to avoid the motorways because the car was unreliable, it jogged my memory and now i'm straining to think of the last time this happened to me. Probably not that long ago though lol.
There was actually a very similar cafe in a back street round the back of the main college buildings near the college I attended in London. Mostly frequented by taxi drivers and commercial delivery drivers. The sausages weren't quite so good but the steak pie was it's equal. A big aluminium oven container full of the steak pie meat and lots of gravy which had been cooking for so long the meat had all but dissolved into the gravy with the pastry cut into portion sizes on top - flaky and light on top and deliciously soggy underneath. What wouldn't I give for a portion right now! Around about that time Mrs J and I became a serious item and started living together - ooooh! I was forbidden from eating the steak pie from then on "It's either you or that damned pie" I seem to remember her saying. Always a pot of tea, don't remember coffee featuring much.

Back in the earlier days of my motoring/life as a couple life I could only aford old bangers. Typically I'd buy trade ins from the larger franchised dealerships which they didn't want to retail, "Trade Cars", on the strict understanding that once the money was handed over you wouldn't come back. They won't sell these to you now due to consumer protection laws giving the buyer too much power. However I did run around in some pretty dodgy motors! I particularly remember doing a core plug on the Ambassador in a filling station on the M1. and cutting my top lip very badly trying to separate the centre pipe from the transverse front silencer on a DAF 44 so I could carry it into the commercial repair shop, again somewhere on the M1, where they were going to let me use the welding gear to repair it (the pipe had cleanly fractured - probably due to resonance vibrations from the 2 cylinder engine being mercilessly thrashed up the road - so welding was a good option) This was at about 2 am on a winter's morning at a commercial emergency recovery workshop. They were ever so friendly and horrified when I stuffed the ragged end of the broken pipe stub into my top lip as it finally gave up it's grip on the silencer - Lots of blood all over the place! Since those early days my vehicles, although often old, have benefited from my experience and been "over maintained" so breakdowns on long journeys haven't really featured. Until, of course, a couple of years ago, when the Ibiza chewed up a final drive (probably pinion) bearing around the M6/M5 interchange going down to Devon. Luckily it degraded quite slowly so we did complete the journey but so much damage was done a new box had to be fitted, OUCH! that made a hole in the savings!
 
Righto, one it is. I was reading a thread you contributed to a couple of years ago, i think you or someone else suggested using cling film to prevent the leaks, that or putting the brakes on using a big stick against the pedal. I've used a big stick before so one or other should work.
Holding the brake pedal down to the floor - perhaps with a "big stick" - should stop the fluid being able to flow from the reservoir through the master cylinder but I prefer not to do that as I don't want to push the piston seals into a part of the cylinder bore where it usually doesn't go and maybe consequently suffer damage. Cutting off air to the reservoir air bleed hole by putting something like a used crisp packet - which seem to be immune to attack from the brake fluid? - over the filler and screwing the cap back on will stop the fluid just as well and it's my preferred way to do it. I avoid pinching off flex hoses as, especially if they are older, it can damage the hose. However I would consider pinching off a hose for fault finding purposes if all other options had been tried first.
 
There was actually a very similar cafe in a back street round the back of the main college buildings near the college I attended in London. Mostly frequented by taxi drivers and commercial delivery drivers. The sausages weren't quite so good but the steak pie was it's equal. A big aluminium oven container full of the steak pie meat and lots of gravy which had been cooking for so long the meat had all but dissolved into the gravy with the pastry cut into portion sizes on top - flaky and light on top and deliciously soggy underneath. What wouldn't I give for a portion right now! Around about that time Mrs J and I became a serious item and started living together - ooooh! I was forbidden from eating the steak pie from then on "It's either you or that damned pie" I seem to remember her saying. Always a pot of tea, don't remember coffee featuring much.

You're right i don't ever remember getting a pot of coffee, it was always tea. I don't think they used brand name PG Tips or Tetley, but it tasted just fine.

I liked the idea of the food being cooked in front of me, i suppose that wasn't the case with all greasy spoons. But these days you pay a price premium for someone to cook a meal in front of you. It was a novelty to me to go and collect sugar sachets at the time in these places.

Back in these days there were fish and chip shops, greasy spoons, restaurants, but no fast food. I can remember McDonalds coming to my town for the first time back in the 1980s, i wasn't that impressed.

Back in the earlier days of my motoring/life as a couple life I could only aford old bangers. Typically I'd buy trade ins from the larger franchised dealerships which they didn't want to retail, "Trade Cars", on the strict understanding that once the money was handed over you wouldn't come back. They won't sell these to you now due to consumer protection laws giving the buyer too much power. However I did run around in some pretty dodgy motors! I particularly remember doing a core plug on the Ambassador in a filling station on the M1. and cutting my top lip very badly trying to separate the centre pipe from the transverse front silencer on a DAF 44 so I could carry it into the commercial repair shop, again somewhere on the M1, where they were going to let me use the welding gear to repair it (the pipe had cleanly fractured - probably due to resonance vibrations from the 2 cylinder engine being mercilessly thrashed up the road - so welding was a good option) This was at about 2 am on a winter's morning at a commercial emergency recovery workshop. They were ever so friendly and horrified when I stuffed the ragged end of the broken pipe stub into my top lip as it finally gave up it's grip on the silencer - Lots of blood all over the place! Since those early days my vehicles, although often old, have benefited from my experience and been "over maintained" so breakdowns on long journeys haven't really featured. Until, of course, a couple of years ago, when the Ibiza chewed up a final drive (probably pinion) bearing around the M6/M5 interchange going down to Devon. Luckily it degraded quite slowly so we did complete the journey but so much damage was done a new box had to be fitted, OUCH! that made a hole in the savings!

Ah yes, a story I can remember is going to a garage and asking them to loosen the flywheel nut because i couldn't do it myself. They said fine, just don't drive far on it or you'll lose it...so the next day I was at a dealer asking to buy the nut lol
 
Cutting off air to the reservoir air bleed hole by putting something like a used crisp packet over the filler and screwing the cap back on will stop the fluid just as well and it's my preferred way to do it.

So the brake clutch master cylinder isn't air tight? I seem to remember something about that but i'm not sure.

I avoid pinching off flex hoses as, especially if they are older, it can damage the hose.

I'm sure mine will break the brakes, excuse the pun. :) So i'm not looking to pinch the hose at all.
 
Back in these days there were fish and chip shops, greasy spoons, restaurants, but no fast food. I can remember McDonalds coming to my town for the first time back in the 1980s, i wasn't that impressed.
I'm not impressed by the modern fast food places, only tried them a couple of times actually and thought the food was not great and prices not value for money. - On the other hand I remember the experience in America being very different. I particularly remember a hamburger joint in New York called the "Blue Max" where the hamburgers were to die for! I don't like large slabs of fish so tend not to frequent fish and chip shops but I do like a Scottish mince pie or scampi or a white or mealy pudding, always available in a Scottish chippy with Edinburgh "Chippy sauce" if possible. If we're away somewhere we tend to use local cafe/restaurants and find them better both food and value wise.
 
I'm not impressed by the modern fast food places, only tried them a couple of times actually and thought the food was not great and prices not value for money. - On the other hand I remember the experience in America being very different. I particularly remember a hamburger joint in New York called the "Blue Max" where the hamburgers were to die for! I don't like large slabs of fish so tend not to frequent fish and chip shops but I do like a Scottish mince pie or scampi or a white or mealy pudding, always available in a Scottish chippy with Edinburgh "Chippy sauce" if possible. If we're away somewhere we tend to use local cafe/restaurants and find them better both food and value wise.
I generally find McDonalds burgers or chips are lukewarm, i do wonder why they can never manage a hot meal. Burger King would sell me frozen burgers if they could lol.

We're gravitating to more sit down meals these days because fast food prices have inflated so fast they're not far off the cost of sit down pub meal.
 
So the brake clutch master cylinder isn't air tight? I seem to remember something about that but i'm not sure.
Yup. As the friction linings wear the piston resting positions - on calipers especially, but also drum brake cylinders if the self adjusters are working properly - move further out of their cylinders to compensate for the worn away material. Some of the fluid in the master cylinder reservoir will move into the caliper/wheel cylinder to allow the piston to assume it's new resting position. It couldn't do this if there wasn't an air hole in the reservoir cap. You may have noticed that the reservoir level drops very slightly as the pads wear? I prefer not to top up routinely, unless the level drops appreciably, because if you keep topping up then when the time comes that you need to push the pistons back for some reason you risk the reservoir over flowing if you're not careful. Of course if the level drops quickly you've probably got a leak so just topping up won't help that. I check all my levels and monitor resting battery voltage regularly, once a month at least, along with tyre pressures etc, so get to know the rate at which the reservoir level drops. On my new Scala the level has dropped less than a couple of mm in the nearly 18 months I've owned her. If you're looking for the air hole in the cap it can be very difficult to find on some designs as they incorporate a "trap" to stop dust and "foreigners" gaining entry.
 
I'm not impressed by the modern fast food places, only tried them a couple of times actually and thought the food was not great and prices not value for money. - On the other hand I remember the experience in America being very different. I particularly remember a hamburger joint in New York called the "Blue Max" where the hamburgers were to die for! I don't like large slabs of fish so tend not to frequent fish and chip shops but I do like a Scottish mince pie or scampi or a white or mealy pudding, always available in a Scottish chippy with Edinburgh "Chippy sauce" if possible. If we're away somewhere we tend to use local cafe/restaurants and find them better both food and value wise.
Scottish chip shops are legendary, i nipped into one at Ardrossan a few years ago and pointed to something and said “what’s that please?” There reply was “Battered pizza” Oh yes, we’ll have a bit of that. Blumin lovely it was! Same as Scottish snack vans, whenever i’m in the area i always head for Hermiston Gait to get my “Sausage and Black” on a fresh morning roll, or Glasgow area it’s normally Cumbernauld for a “Bacon and tatty scone roll” all half the price of down south of course 😀
 
If you're looking for the air hole in the cap it can be very difficult to find on some designs as they incorporate a "trap" to stop dust and "foreigners" gaining entry.
I get it now, i really can't see any hole in the cap, but it must be there. I'll look extra close!

If I can find the hole and its small enough then some well placed duct tape may work.
 
Scottish chip shops are legendary, i nipped into one at Ardrossan a few years ago and pointed to something and said “what’s that please?” There reply was “Battered pizza” Oh yes, we’ll have a bit of that. Blumin lovely it was! Same as Scottish snack vans, whenever i’m in the area i always head for Hermiston Gait to get my “Sausage and Black” on a fresh morning roll, or Glasgow area it’s normally Cumbernauld for a “Bacon and tatty scone roll” all half the price of down south of course 😀
Battered Pizza, i'm lost for words lol.

I'm going to assume the black is black pudding, which i eat at home regularly. But the tatty is? Potato?
 
Scottish chip shops are legendary, i nipped into one at Ardrossan a few years ago and pointed to something and said “what’s that please?” There reply was “Battered pizza” Oh yes, we’ll have a bit of that. Blumin lovely it was! Same as Scottish snack vans, whenever i’m in the area i always head for Hermiston Gait to get my “Sausage and Black” on a fresh morning roll, or Glasgow area it’s normally Cumbernauld for a “Bacon and tatty scone roll” all half the price of down south of course 😀
Oh, "tatty scones" (potato scone) cooked in a frying pan along with the bacon - yum yum! There's a chippy at the top of Broughton Street, just off Picardy Place, still advertising deep fried battered mars bars in the front window. I like the occasional Mars bar (but gives me tooth ache due to receding gums) however I can't say the idea of a deep fried one doesn't sound attractive at all. Might be tempted to try a battered pizza though, but Mrs J would never allow it. She doesn't even like me having a mince pie!
 
Oh, "tatty scones" (potato scone) cooked in a frying pan along with the bacon - yum yum! There's a chippy at the top of Broughton Street, just off Picardy Place, still advertising deep fried battered mars bars in the front window. I like the occasional Mars bar (but gives me tooth ache due to receding gums) however I can't say the idea of a deep fried one doesn't sound attractive at all. Might be tempted to try a battered pizza though, but Mrs J would never allow it. She doesn't even like me having a mince pie!
Tatty scones sounds a bit like the bubble and squeak patty i had a few days ago. Pleasant enough.

I will only eat my wifes home made mince pies, the shop bought ones aren't to my liking but home made ones delicious, although i don't know whats different, less fruit probably.
 
Tatty scones sounds a bit like the bubble and squeak patty i had a few days ago. Pleasant enough.

I will only eat my wifes home made mince pies, the shop bought ones aren't to my liking but home made ones delicious, although i don't know whats different, less fruit probably.
Ah! Scottish mince pies bare absolutely no relationship to yours. They are quite a bit bigger, made with a lovely "flat" pastry and contain a well seasoned, quite peppery, minced meat filling mostly mutton/lamb but sometimes beef. They are usually quite greasy and, if you get a good one, are absolutely delicious! Chip shop versions are specifically formulated to survive deep fryers so are a bit different to a "proper" one made in a family bakery but usually very tasty none the less:



There's a chippy just as you leave Edinburgh going south on the old A7 road which used to be open all hours and, after a good evening out with the future Mrs J and friends, I'd stop there, buy a mince pie and munch it as I hared back down into the border country and home. Oh the memories!
 
Seen this on the forum but had quite the time trying to get the right greases for the brake job on the CT. Not something I ever worried much about on my Pandas or DS / Avensis. Panda's got a lick of copper grease but the pads either didn't have shims or came with some sort of textured sticker that acted as one. DS3 same. Avensis same, most Toyota's have them but it had a BMW engine, Bosch brakes on those engine models. Basic parts even when buying genuine. Still, other than an infrequent squeal after about a year no issues with any of those cars.

Fast forward to this year.. creaking when braking. Toyota inspect. Brakes are the cause, replace pads. When I checked, discs and pads below the replace thickness.. how'd they miss that.. Anyway, needing replaced. Wanted to do a proper good job. Watched all the videos, read the workshop manual etc. This is what led me down the rabbit hole.

The pins needed greasing, they weren't stuck but not as free and when I cleaned them with tissue, nothing really came off them which was worrying. Seals were fine though somehow.

Shims needed some sort of grease behind them also.

Motor factors have a tendency to just hand you something that they have on the shelf whether it's right or not... their depth of knowledge only goes as far as 'good enough to not cause an accident and get us in trouble, but not good enough to prolong life of your car by using whatever is correct'. If you try to discuss or ask more they look at you like you have three eyes. Like tyre shops, if you ring up and ask if they have a certain brand or model, you get the same response. They won't order it in and if they did... probably over priced and waiting days.

Called Toyota and Lexus. They weren't aware that the mechanics used their own branded stuff or of the differences between them. Rang back, armed with part numbers. They wanted £40-£50 for what wasn't a large size toothpaste tube of these greases. Per tube! In fairness to them, there's product names like 'Disc Brake Grease', 'Disc Brake Grease 2', 'Brake Caliper Grease', 'Rubber Grease'. Why don't they name them better?! Sadly, they had no real clue either other than making a guess as good as mine.

Then there was the workshop manual... 'Lithium Soap Base Glycol Grease' - what the hell is that?!

Thankfully there was a decent dealer that was able to get me (in fact, they ended up just giving me some half filled left over tubes of the stuff!) and between them and some other forums I could ascertain what each was actually used for...

Basically... rubber grease was the stuff where rubber meets metal (wish they called it rubber-metal grease then). Slide pins. All good. They slid much better with this. As I said, boots / seals were all sound so no idea how they got so dry - no signs of burning or rust either. Wouldn't surprise me if at this rate, Toyota just took em out ,dried em and waited for the day I asked for a quote out of warranty for a new brake system given they're out of pocket half of what I bought the car used from them in warranty work lol 'Disc Brake Grease 2' it turns out was for the back of the shims / metal on metal contact. And the top / bottom of the pads sliding along the caliper. Why '2'? Apparently they used to use one grease for all of this but eventually developed this special one just for the shims / contact points... lovely. Again, why not 'Brake Shim Grease' ffs. 'Disc Brake Caliper Grease' was used for shims before the one above was made apparently.... more of a general grease.

Some of it was black stuff... other was white, one red and very thick. It's bizarre to me that even when dealing with genuine 'greases' and genuine 'repair manuals' that the wording is so out of sync and that even the dealers don't really know how to advise most times. I guess most new / middle aged cars (particularly ones they service) probably don't need pins regreasing much... their brake parts come with the tiny sachets of greases needed... something like that.

Long story short... Avoiding the motor factors and third party products that I couldn't be 100% were the ideal greases for the job, didn't actually make it any easier. Glad I've figured them out but as I went back to look at my pictures, they all have expiry dates and expire March 2026.... to hell with greases!!!
 
Seen this on the forum but had quite the time trying to get the right greases for the brake job on the CT. Not something I ever worried much about on my Pandas or DS / Avensis. Panda's got a lick of copper grease but the pads either didn't have shims or came with some sort of textured sticker that acted as one. DS3 same. Avensis same, most Toyota's have them but it had a BMW engine, Bosch brakes on those engine models. Basic parts even when buying genuine. Still, other than an infrequent squeal after about a year no issues with any of those cars.

Fast forward to this year.. creaking when braking. Toyota inspect. Brakes are the cause, replace pads. When I checked, discs and pads below the replace thickness.. how'd they miss that.. Anyway, needing replaced. Wanted to do a proper good job. Watched all the videos, read the workshop manual etc. This is what led me down the rabbit hole.

The pins needed greasing, they weren't stuck but not as free and when I cleaned them with tissue, nothing really came off them which was worrying. Seals were fine though somehow.

Shims needed some sort of grease behind them also.

Motor factors have a tendency to just hand you something that they have on the shelf whether it's right or not... their depth of knowledge only goes as far as 'good enough to not cause an accident and get us in trouble, but not good enough to prolong life of your car by using whatever is correct'. If you try to discuss or ask more they look at you like you have three eyes. Like tyre shops, if you ring up and ask if they have a certain brand or model, you get the same response. They won't order it in and if they did... probably over priced and waiting days.

Called Toyota and Lexus. They weren't aware that the mechanics used their own branded stuff or of the differences between them. Rang back, armed with part numbers. They wanted £40-£50 for what wasn't a large size toothpaste tube of these greases. Per tube! In fairness to them, there's product names like 'Disc Brake Grease', 'Disc Brake Grease 2', 'Brake Caliper Grease', 'Rubber Grease'. Why don't they name them better?! Sadly, they had no real clue either other than making a guess as good as mine.

Then there was the workshop manual... 'Lithium Soap Base Glycol Grease' - what the hell is that?!

Thankfully there was a decent dealer that was able to get me (in fact, they ended up just giving me some half filled left over tubes of the stuff!) and between them and some other forums I could ascertain what each was actually used for...

Basically... rubber grease was the stuff where rubber meets metal (wish they called it rubber-metal grease then). Slide pins. All good. They slid much better with this. As I said, boots / seals were all sound so no idea how they got so dry - no signs of burning or rust either. Wouldn't surprise me if at this rate, Toyota just took em out ,dried em and waited for the day I asked for a quote out of warranty for a new brake system given they're out of pocket half of what I bought the car used from them in warranty work lol 'Disc Brake Grease 2' it turns out was for the back of the shims / metal on metal contact. And the top / bottom of the pads sliding along the caliper. Why '2'? Apparently they used to use one grease for all of this but eventually developed this special one just for the shims / contact points... lovely. Again, why not 'Brake Shim Grease' ffs. 'Disc Brake Caliper Grease' was used for shims before the one above was made apparently.... more of a general grease.

Some of it was black stuff... other was white, one red and very thick. It's bizarre to me that even when dealing with genuine 'greases' and genuine 'repair manuals' that the wording is so out of sync and that even the dealers don't really know how to advise most times. I guess most new / middle aged cars (particularly ones they service) probably don't need pins regreasing much... their brake parts come with the tiny sachets of greases needed... something like that.

Long story short... Avoiding the motor factors and third party products that I couldn't be 100% were the ideal greases for the job, didn't actually make it any easier. Glad I've figured them out but as I went back to look at my pictures, they all have expiry dates and expire March 2026.... to hell with greases!!!
The whole "world" of lubricants is enormous and confusing - just trying to understand engine and transmission lubricants is hard enough but the manufacturers are quite good at giving you recommendations and compliant specifications for these. Greases are not so easy - I suppose they recon it's going to be "qualified mechanics" rather than "driveway grease monkeys" using them? Anyway, regarding brakes, used to be that some copper grease solved the problem on pretty much everything and I used it for very many years with no known issues being caused. Then they started saying you shouldn't use metallic greases on systems which had ABS sensors as it's conductivity could cause "issues" and they started selling specialist brake greases with ceramic "dust" instead of ground copper. I used copper grease on cars with ABS brakes and never had any problems at all except that the grease would tend to dry out and become less effective over long periods. Have to say though, never a problem when the vehicle was serviced regularly.

So, what do I use these days? Well, mostly I use ceramic brake grease on the back of pads and shims if the shims are metal with no soft facing also where the pad bears on the calliper carrier. Always applied sparingly and being very careful to keep it away from friction surfaces. I'm not averse to still using Copper grease on some of the older cars like the Pandas etc as I still have a half empty tub of the stuff and these older cars are "molly coddled" to excess. My favourite Copper product is Copa Slip: https://molyslip.co.uk/product/copaslip/ which I find has the best consistency compared to other brands. I've used a number of different Ceramic brake greases, Ceratec, Apex brake grease, Silverhook, etc but my present favourite is Granville:https://www.granvilleoil.com/prodInfo?pID=775 because, again, I particularly like the consistency. Slider pins usually have rubber dust excluders so if you use most greases on them the rubbers will be attacked. Consequently I use either red rubber grease or, currently my favourite, a silicon grease. Permatex is a big name in this area and I noticed this on my factor's shelves last time I was in there: https://www.permatex.com/products/l.../permatex-silicone-brake-parts-lubricant-8oz/ It's not cheap, but looks like it can be used on all brake parts - so one tin does it all? Once present stocks run out in Garage Jock, I think I'll give it a try.

By the way, while we're talking brakes folks, and specifically relating to guide pin lubrication. Don't over grease them! So remove, clean down with a bit of rag or parts cleaner and then, when applying the lube, do so sparingly. If you really pile it on then the pin can "hydraulic lock" in it's hole and stop the caliper from moving as it should and this can have multiple bad effects, like reduced brake performance, uneven pad wear, etc, etc. Just thought I'd pop that one in as I came across one the other day where far too much lube had been used causing uneven pad wear and thus premature replacement needed. (neighbour's car, maintained by a workshop with a not very good reputation locally and he ended up asking my opinion)
 
The whole "world" of lubricants is enormous and confusing - just trying to understand engine and transmission lubricants is hard enough but the manufacturers are quite good at giving you recommendations and compliant specifications for these. Greases are not so easy - I suppose they recon it's going to be "qualified mechanics" rather than "driveway grease monkeys" using them? Anyway, regarding brakes, used to be that some copper grease solved the problem on pretty much everything and I used it for very many years with no known issues being caused. Then they started saying you shouldn't use metallic greases on systems which had ABS sensors as it's conductivity could cause "issues" and they started selling specialist brake greases with ceramic "dust" instead of ground copper. I used copper grease on cars with ABS brakes and never had any problems at all except that the grease would tend to dry out and become less effective over long periods. Have to say though, never a problem when the vehicle was serviced regularly.
I wish the guidance was a tad better, even if there's a go-to grease that any mechanically experienced person would use, as you mention, at some stage they fitted ABS sensors and then the recommendation changed for some, now I suppose all cars. I think with my recent brake issues it was that the greases had all dried out long ago, but by chance, since I last checked a year ago, the discs and pads were now 1mm or so below replacement value (which is quite a lot left compared to how far you could actually push the discs and pads imo, but Toyota are OTT). I'm surprised the guidance isn't to re-grease those bits at every other service even if the brakes are okay. With those lifts they have... wouldn't be too time consuming!

So, what do I use these days? Well, mostly I use ceramic brake grease on the back of pads and shims if the shims are metal with no soft facing also where the pad bears on the calliper carrier. Always applied sparingly and being very careful to keep it away from friction surfaces. I'm not averse to still using Copper grease on some of the older cars like the Pandas etc as I still have a half empty tub of the stuff and these older cars are "molly coddled" to excess. My favourite Copper product is Copa Slip: https://molyslip.co.uk/product/copaslip/ which I find has the best consistency compared to other brands. I've used a number of different Ceramic brake greases, Ceratec, Apex brake grease, Silverhook, etc but my present favourite is Granville:https://www.granvilleoil.com/prodInfo?pID=775 because, again, I particularly like the consistency. Slider pins usually have rubber dust excluders so if you use most greases on them the rubbers will be attacked. Consequently I use either red rubber grease or, currently my favourite, a silicon grease. Permatex is a big name in this area and I noticed this on my factor's shelves last time I was in there: https://www.permatex.com/products/l.../permatex-silicone-brake-parts-lubricant-8oz/ It's not cheap, but looks like it can be used on all brake parts - so one tin does it all? Once present stocks run out in Garage Jock, I think I'll give it a try.
Used Granville stuff over the years from the motor factors, always good stuff. I was a lot less fussy with the Panda back then, 50% as I had no clue about these things and 50% as I'd just go with the recommendation my uncle made. Never had any issues though. I really do miss the simplicity of that car. It's a shame everything is going complex and not always for a worthwhile reason.

By the way, while we're talking brakes folks, and specifically relating to guide pin lubrication. Don't over grease them! So remove, clean down with a bit of rag or parts cleaner and then, when applying the lube, do so sparingly. If you really pile it on then the pin can "hydraulic lock" in it's hole and stop the caliper from moving as it should and this can have multiple bad effects, like reduced brake performance, uneven pad wear, etc, etc. Just thought I'd pop that one in as I came across one the other day where far too much lube had been used causing uneven pad wear and thus premature replacement needed. (neighbour's car, maintained by a workshop with a not very good reputation locally and he ended up asking my opinion)
Ah yeah, was well warned about over greasing the pins on some of the videos I watched before doing the job recently. Too much expands when heated up and as you say, bad things happen.. The entire trade is unreliable.. which shocks me when it comes to brakes. Sent me out saying my car needs new pads only, missing the discs being wore down and on one side.. a big chunk missing out of the calliper piston. shocking stuff.
 
The entire trade is unreliable.. which shocks me when it comes to brakes. Sent me out saying my car needs new pads only, missing the discs being wore down and on one side.. a big chunk missing out of the calliper piston. shocking stuff.
You do have to be very careful about who you entrust your vehicle to, but this is not a new situation - ever has it been thus. There are a lot of so called mechanics who have done some very basic qualification, or none at all, and just picked "stuff" up as they've gone along. Depending on who they've been working with this may be good, but often not so good and poor working practices are learnt.

The big problem of course, and this is so difficult for someone with no or little mechanical experience, is how to find the guys - and/or girls - who do know what they are on about. Although not completely infallible, seeking out an organization/workshop which professes to be a specialist in your make of car. Call in and question them, politely, on their claim. A lot of these type of workshop are likely to be small maybe family owned affairs so ask if it's just the owner who has the experience or do they specifically employ manufacturer qualified employees. Our two trusted local Audi independents seem to pay more than the main dealer and "poach" their skilled technical staff from them! Take a good look at the workshop, is it reasonably neat and clean or is there stuff lying all over the place with a filthy floor - it's not going to look like your doctor's surgery but if it's filthy and the equipment, jacks, axle stands, and defective parts etc are just strewn around and the floor is filthy then I'd be wary. What's the welcome like - I like someone I can easily communicate with. Also word of mouth recommendations from friends and work colleagues can be very useful.
 
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