Technical Engine Mangement Warning light lit on Dash

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Technical Engine Mangement Warning light lit on Dash

ycming,
I read about how to pre-load hydraulic tappets after I had replaced the head gasket, two weeks ago, I rushed that part of the job because I was working in the street!
So when I first posted the problem you and rallycing suggested I went back and pre-loaded the hydraulic tappets, I stripped it the rocker box off yesterday to do just that.
Incidentally, in a spares box, I have two sets of rocker arms, one from the car originally and one from the scrap yard.

The third set, I had was fitted to the car by a garage in November. When I therefore replaced the head gasket two weeks ago, I had not noticed till yesterday, that the rocker mechanism now fitted to the car, was not the same as the other two sets I had, in that, no nuts are fitted to the push rod end arm for pre-load adjustment!

The other two spare sets therefore, match the description and illustration in the Haynes manual, unlike the third set fitted to the car!

The Rocker mechanism originally fitted have some slight damage on one rocker, where a hydraulic tappet came loose on the way home last November.

The other spare set I got from the scrap yard has no damage to the rocker arms but when I removed it from the car in the scrap yard, not one hydraulic tappet was intact!

The third set with every hydraulic tappet all intact, was put in the car in November by a garage, but this differs as stated as I found out yesterday, not sure why, because all three sets came from Cinquecento's!

Unless the garage butchered them, but i am not sure, as the end that meets the push rod cup is slightly different in shape, perhaps more than one type were fitted, I cannot see a way of adjusting this other type for pre-load, no adjustment seems to be possible!

Can new hydraulic tappets be purchased to be inserted into the rocker mechanism?
By the way I live in Ramsgate Kent.

Cheers for reply

jboy
Rallycinc
I have used 10/40s and 20/50s both mult-igrade oils as U would know,m oil and filter have been changed every 6,000 miles except once, when the change over ran to over 7,000,,
I run other vehicles which includr DOHC motorcycyle's and an SOHC 2.7 litre car and oils have been widely discussed on other Forums I belong too, the main problem area seems to be the new oils designed for economy of operation therefore increased mpg containing high quantities of detergent agents, rather than containing products that specifically, protect engine metal components, to be honest I have found 20/50 oils more than adequate for older pushrod engines, although in higher performance engines I have used 10/40s and 15/40s, friends in the racing business, now mainly vintage, have much to say about oils and marketing myths, incidentally many BMW motorcycle owners of bikes up to about 1996, have returned to 20.50 oils for the spring and summer periods these engines are DOHC and have peak revs, between 8,000 and 8,500 revolutions an IMP derived engine I am going to build for my next project will rev to 10,000 if needed, normally aspirated, depending on what i do and whether I take the Supercharging option around 5,800 rpm here the guys used a 20/50 oil fortified by STP, incidentally in the 1970s many a series "A" engine was run to the adequate performance limits on 20/50 and STP, admittedly these engines didn't have hydraulics tappets...

Cheers

jboy
 
I mistaken filled one of my 899s with 20/50. It didn't like it, hence the post.

I use 5/50 fully synthetic in my 1108, but thats my choice.

I was only suggesting, that from personal experience of the 899 engine in two different Cinqs, that the recommended oil works better.

Cheers

SPD
 
I mistaken filled one of my 899s with 20/50. It didn't like it, hence the post.

I use 5/50 fully synthetic in my 1108, but thats my choice.

I was only suggesting, that from personal experience of the 899 engine in two different Cinqs, that the recommended oil works better.

Cheers

SPD
Thanks all,
Cheers I will adjust the oil grade, I have had to run the car with the red warning light on, for the past five weeks, still no real tickover potential, I have to keep blipping the accelerator when cold, to keep it running and if and once warm if I accellerate a little faster to overtake a vehicle, then all of a sudden two-thirds through the process for a second there is a complete loss of power then power comes back and the manouvre can be completed.
I have a leak from the crankshaft oil seal, I going to replace the oil seal this week is there anything i should be wary of?


Cheers

Jboy
 
Unfortunately I am in between jobs, so almost no spare cash and after replacing head gasket, ignition coil pack, spark plugs, throttle body , air box, air filter changed 4,000 miles ago, is a garage diagnostic the only way forward and what will that cost ?
 
About £30-40 at an independent garage if they have the equipment (most do)

Price may differ depending where you are in country

Its about £90-100 if you go to a fiat dealer

These prices are just a qoute for a code read, it doesnt include a potential repair
 
Cheers
I can't help feeling the whole of this modern motoring experience has become a Corporate rip off, even more than yester-year. Everyone has to buy expensive diagnostic equipment and diagnostic cartridges, otherwise you go out of business, so to re-coup their losses, businesses have to increase standard charges, so like everything else the whole process becomes cash, inflated, in principle a diagnostic could take less than 5 minutes I suppose.

Where's the skill in being a mechanic anymore? Its like a component failure game , the diagnostic tells you the fault code and you replace the part en bloc, oh! and incidentally Main dealers seem to be staffed by people who do not know the first thing about the mechanics of car engines...

So in the future for me I can see it being either Kit car territory, build your own, a Classic car, I can fix myself or if all else fails, a bicycle !

Cheers

Jboy
 
Cheers
I can't help feeling the whole of this modern motoring experience has become a Corporate rip off, even more than yester-year. Everyone has to buy expensive diagnostic equipment and diagnostic cartridges, otherwise you go out of business, so to re-coup their losses, businesses have to increase standard charges, so like everything else the whole process becomes cash, inflated, in principle a diagnostic could take less than 5 minutes I suppose.

Where's the skill in being a mechanic anymore? Its like a component failure game , the diagnostic tells you the fault code and you replace the part en bloc, oh! and incidentally Main dealers seem to be staffed by people who do not know the first thing about the mechanics of car engines...

So in the future for me I can see it being either Kit car territory, build your own, a Classic car, I can fix myself or if all else fails, a bicycle !

Cheers

Jboy

Electrical grubbins and technology has moved on just like the car, kit car and build your own will still be the same as today, becase you would be installing modern engines with modern technology so you are going to come across the same potential problems

Kit car companies cant use a pinto or a K-series engine forever
 
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OK I know I was moaning but, having a science background, perhaps just makes me see things differently, you need air and fuel in the right stoicmetric mixture and a spark, nothing else, if they fitted cars with self-diagnostics then I would be happier, HD have done this, to an extent on they bikes recently.
I know people have to make a living but... I had a BMW and did over 90,000 miles in it on a early Motronic system....apart from replacing the Air mass Meter, everything ran sweet.. but I have an inward aversion to things which are outside of my control, its probably a motorcycle hang up, when you break down you need to be able to fix it by the roadside and carry on, minimum fuss, maximum flexibility,

A lot of businesses have gone to the wall round here especially the small garages and component service industries, partly through the scrappage and partly through the complete component replacement philosophy, we have moved into and then there's the economic downturn too.

I know there's probably a lot more cars on the road but I see a lot more stuff being towed or shipped back home too, including motorcycles and at one time this was such a rare sight to see.

I probably older than some of you and yes some of the stuff that was around when I was a teenager was.... crappy, but you learned if you could how to service the vehicle and how to diagnose, through feeling , drivability, temperature, plug analysis and the noises it made either running on the road or at tick-over, it didn't take a computer to tell you what was wrong and how to fix it.
Metal alloys have got better, electronic system controls have increased in status exponentially, pollution controls have affected engine management systems, power outputs are up, but look at the plastic bubbles most people are driving round in and you have to laugh...
The good thing if you have the brass, through software applications, CAD X rays and computer controlled CNC machines you can take a old cylinder block or cylinder head and other exotics and have them strengthened and recast in a foundry in better alloy, with increased lubrication channels and build your own power plant, now that's exciting.. the other route to go is to look at the cost and power output of small block Chevy engines..now that is good value for money, fit into a nice Kit Car too. OH! and thanks for the link I will explore this "Techie Heaven" ASAP, incidentally binary code is the simple bit I have no problems with that, thankfully...!
 
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