General Engine idles won't rev up and then dies

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General Engine idles won't rev up and then dies

Elxpunto90

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Does any body know what could be causing my 1600 8 v elx 90 problems I can start car up from cold can drive around but can't go over 2500 rpm because engine try's stalling once I've stopped and left idling eventually have a loud sucking noise of air then engine stalls I've replaced alot of stuff like all sensors on car will try and replace fuel filter again it's only been on there for 2 months and I'm not sure about the fuel pump it makes a noise when turn ignition on then whilst car runs there's a funny noise screeching from pump and car start hesitating and try to stall but I'm not sure this is the problem though can any one help me please
 
still having issues then.. Symptoms do sound like fuel starvation.. Have you looked inside the tank to check its all nice and clean and not loads of rusty particles. Also check inside the sender for foreign objects and that the little filter is still on the bottom of the pump.perhaps you're fuel pump is dying, it shouldn't screech at all - yes it should make a kinda buzzing sound as it primes the system but screeching is bad.

You could check the fuel pressure with an inline gauge to see if the pressure is low but i'd be inclined to just swap the pump as its screeching and see if that fixes it - if the tank looks clean when you do the swap then the filter should be fine. Fuel has to go through the filter on the pump and then through a mesh in the actual pump itself before it ever gets to the actual fuel filter so assuming the pump filter and gauze are still in place and intact your new fuel filter should be fine.
 
I have just ordered a new fuel pump and filter and hope this
Sorts problem out I managed to start car up and drove it around the block a few times and it had no hesitation on pull away pulled up and within 5 mins it was playing up again and stalled the pump makes a buzzing noise and I think it's wearing out and makes a clonking noise and can't provide the right pressure also I noticed that the fuel filter wasn't fitted properly the in side was on the side nearer the front of car and the out was connected to the rear side of the fuel Connection been like this for about 6 months
 
Excellent problem solved £450 worth of replacement parts on engine when I could of just paid £45 to fix the problem if I knew that it was that lol
 
Fuel pump was wearing out couldn't keep fuel running to engine causing starvation
 
The only prob I have is when driving along after about 5 mins injector light comes on but doesn't cause any problems with engine running

The only other problem I have is battery keeps dying every couple of days and can't find out where it is coming from
 
RE: eml coming on, get the codes read - there will be fault logged if the light came on.

For draining battery, first check the alternator is charging - should get around 13v with car running and 12v with car off. Then take connectors of battery and check they are clean - bad battery terminal connections can cause all sorts of funny problems. Then put your meter in series with the battery and measure current, will be tiny but of current for clock etc but if you start pulling fuses as said above then one should make it drop significantly, this circuit is your drain (if it wasn't just dirty terminals).

If all that fails take your battery into halfords or similar and ask them to test it, most places do it free..
 
I've just ordered a new battery hopefully that will sort prob out when car is off it is reading 12.2 volts when running reading 14.2v when I put meter on battery whilst car is off and disconnect terminal of battery at the same time there is no change in voltage it's really weird

I need to get a lead to read ecu not got it at mo the other lead I got wont connect something to do with pins need a switch or something to find out what is causing injector prob
 
agreed, sounds ok. All testing the voltage with the car on and off does is prove the alternator is working.

When they test them they put a load across the battery and read the voltage, it will drop but shouldn't drop much. This is not something you can test unless you have a battery tester. All you can really do is leave it a while and then measure the voltage but even then i have had batteries that still read 12v a week later but as soon as some current is applied (starter being probably the highest current item on the car) the voltage drops right off. Even happened to my alfa this year and thats only a 3 year old car!! Everything i could do with my multimeter suggested it was ok but on a battery tester the voltage dropped right down to about 8v.
 
That is what was happening with my old battery when I went to start it up the following day my voltage gauge dropped to 8 volts before I turned it over
I've put new battery in and done a voltage test it seems to be holding only loser a few volts from car alarm over night but nothing major hope it is fixed now
 
Also I think when I had those big issues with car engine failure and kept cranking it over and over again and again and charging battery about 10 times throughout the time trying to fix engine and it turned out to be fuel pump maybe that messed battery up all that hard work it done I think battery has been in car more then 3 years probably best thing I've done out a new one on
 
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