Technical Engine Cuts and wont start Help!!!!

[R1aan]

Hi, please can someone help me.
Im driving a 2008 Fiat Bravo 1.4 T-Jet Sport.
Bravo has been in a bumper bash and i had towed to the garage to get fixed, but so far nothing else. (Ons thing i did notice after getting the bravo back the auto lock of the doors no longer works)

My Bravo keeps overheating or at least i think that it is.
I would like to explain my scenario and i hope this will lead to some answers.

starting the vehicle it has a bit of a struggle to idle but it dissipates after about 30s, after traveling for about 40km the Bravo temp is sitting and just above 1/4(Note: wires for temp sensor was extended [Joined wires] ) and a short while after the 40km mark gauge drops, brake assist as well as ASR disconnect(i tried resetting the fault while driving to see if the gauge picks up and it does but all faults come back instantly after reset) once this happens the fan turns on full speed and when accelerating and instantly lifting my foot off of the paddle the car backfires.

After coming to a stop at around 70km away from my house the vehicle struggles to idle and often dies and will not start, other times i am able to park and turn off the vehicle myself but once i try to start it just cranks. After about 20min i am able to start the vehicle again but once i hit traffic i face the same thing again vehicle struggles to idle and dies.

Attached you will find report from OBDII
Fault codes and the ecu report after the Bravo cuts out.

I hope that this is enough info please if anyone knows how to assist me to resolve the issue i would appreciate it.

 

[bugsymike]

Just a small point was the radiator damaged in the accident causing loss of coolant?
The reason I ask this is that it is not unknown for cars to be driven around or left running whilst in bodyshop with no radiator or coolant, this could cause head gasket issues etc. which may account for the problem. It may account for the temp gauge issues also if air in system.
The remote key issue may just be due to battery being disconnected and there is probably a sequence to get the car to recognise the key, this is nothing to do with the immobiliser or starting side just the remote.
The same battery disconnect may account fort he stop start and ASR etc. there is a correct procedure to go through when disconnecting batteries on many modern cars these days.
Hopefully this is not the case, but suggest check, doesn't sound like a good repair job.

 

[R1aan]

Just a small point was the radiator damaged in the accident causing loss of coolant?
The reason I ask this is that it is not unknown for cars to be driven around or left running whilst in bodyshop with no radiator or coolant, this could cause head gasket issues etc. which may account for the problem. It may account for the temp gauge issues also if air in system.
The remote key issue may just be due to battery being disconnected and there is probably a sequence to get the car to recognise the key, this is nothing to do with the immobiliser or starting side just the remote.
The same battery disconnect may account fort he stop start and ASR etc. there is a correct procedure to go through when disconnecting batteries on many modern cars these days.
Hopefully this is not the case, but suggest check, doesn't sound like a good repair job.

I Agree the repair job was terrible.

Luckily no damages to the radiator, i have bled the radiator to be sure. And i also have changed the coolant sensor to ensure i have coverred all areas.

The ASR, brake assist and temperature all fail while i drive after a around 40km of driving once the vehicle reaches a warm temperature.

Perhaps i phrased the issue incorrectly no issues with the remote only the auto lock once reaching 20kmh.

I hope i am not confusing about the issue.

Is it possible that the repair shop had the incorrect ecu reader and caused software problems.?

 

[bugsymike]

I Agree the repair job was terrible.

Luckily no damages to the radiator, i have bled the radiator to be sure. And i also have changed the coolant sensor to ensure i have coverred all areas.

The ASR, brake assist and temperature all fail while i drive after a around 40km of driving once the vehicle reaches a warm temperature.

Perhaps i phrased the issue incorrectly no issues with the remote only the auto lock once reaching 20kmh.

I hope i am not confusing about the issue.

Is it possible that the repair shop had the incorrect ecu reader and caused software problems.?

Oh,sorry I misunderstood.
You mentioned wiring connections, so maybe they have been connected wrong on the temp sensor.
Did any air come out when bleeding cooling system?
Unlikely incorrect ECU reader would affect anything if they were only reading the codes etc.
I assume no error lights on dash/instrument panel?
Is there any loss of coolant along with the suspected overheating, does the rad fan cut in.
Sometimes a seeping head gasket will cause a misfire on initial start up then clear, any condensation from exhaust, or hand feel damp if held near tail pipe?

 

[Mike1alike]

It looks like there are two things to check here.
️ 1. Lambda sensor circuit (P0130)
Since the error says sensor circuit and not heater, it points to a wiring/electrical problem.
With repeated open-loop/closed-loop transitions, the ECU is trying to use lambda feedback but gets an invalid signal, causing mixture correction chaos and stalling.
Check:
Lambda live voltage when warm (should swing ~0.1–0.9 V).
Continuity of wiring to ECU and sensor ground.
️ 2. Coolant temperature/thermostat (P0116)
If the thermostat is stuck open, engine warms slowly, and the ECT reads lower than actual. ECU may stay longer in open-loop, affecting lambda and mixture control.
Check live coolant temp: it should rise smoothly from ambient to ~90°C.
Compare radiator hose temp and ambient to confirm thermostat operation.
Bottom line
The lambda wiring/ground is likely the root cause of stalling after 2–3 minutes.
The stuck-open thermostat could contribute to erratic temperature readings and exacerbate mixture control errors.
Systematic checks of both lambda and coolant temp wiring, plus thermostat operation, should pinpoint the problem.

 

[R1aan]

It looks like there are two things to check here.
️ 1. Lambda sensor circuit (P0130)
Since the error says sensor circuit and not heater, it points to a wiring/electrical problem.
With repeated open-loop/closed-loop transitions, the ECU is trying to use lambda feedback but gets an invalid signal, causing mixture correction chaos and stalling.
Check:
Lambda live voltage when warm (should swing ~0.1–0.9 V).
Continuity of wiring to ECU and sensor ground.
️ 2. Coolant temperature/thermostat (P0116)
If the thermostat is stuck open, engine warms slowly, and the ECT reads lower than actual. ECU may stay longer in open-loop, affecting lambda and mixture control.
Check live coolant temp: it should rise smoothly from ambient to ~90°C.
Compare radiator hose temp and ambient to confirm thermostat operation.
Bottom line
The lambda wiring/ground is likely the root cause of stalling after 2–3 minutes.
The stuck-open thermostat could contribute to erratic temperature readings and exacerbate mixture control errors.
Systematic checks of both lambda and coolant temp wiring, plus thermostat operation, should pinpoint the problem.

Good day, sorry for the late response.

im lucky to have you guys on my side thank you

Regarding the the Lamba sensor i have noticed now that these were definitly removed and installed after the accident and the wires are extended for both Lamba and exhaust sensor. (My concern is that they might have switched the sensors around and im not entirely sure what sensor gets plugged in where because they are located very close to eachother)
My question then how to tell the sensors apart from eachother and where do they plug in im willing to trace the wires to the harness if i have to.

The coolant temprature sensor, the plug that pushes over the coolant sensor pins are broken how do i go abou this as we have no shop that sells these plugs.

I will be doing an investigation all around the earths and once im do i will revert back

 

[bugsymike]

I take it you will not be using the repair shop again.

 

[Mike1alike]

I take it you will not be using the repair shop again.

At least... not the same one!