Technical Engine chokes every few seconds while Radiator Fan on

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Technical Engine chokes every few seconds while Radiator Fan on

I must be hearing it different but to me it just sounds like the alternator
is applying a load as something switches on and off air con or fan doesn't
sound like a engine problem as such.
 
Hi everyone, very sorry to come back on this so late!

Dealership found the gas pump under the rear bench to be faulty. They replaced it with a new Aftermarket one and now it's running again.

However, the repeated kind of choking behavior is not gone so they are not linked. I'll need to look that up when I get some time. It always comes up under heavier electrical load. Whenever it acts up, if I turn off the low beams for example, it goes away (sometimes, but everytime at least diminishes the level of chocking, lol).
 
Alternator could be the issue of the chocking under electrical load, though when I bought the car, the garage where I inspected it particularly found it to be looking like brand new, no dirt or anything on it ... well, who knows.

Will keep this thread updated as soon as I find the root cause.

All the best.
 
It's very awkward to diagnose these things without seeing it in person
but I am not sure you have a problem, I think what you are earing is
the alternator switching to balance the electrical load, did the garage
offer no thoughts when they did the pump.
When you switch something on especially high load like head lights
heated screen air con and air con can give a variable load as they
can switch on and off that puts a load on the alternator and that
in turn loads the engine via the drive belt so you are bond to notice
some change.
 
Check the voltage when you are revving it to around 2000rpm, and trying different loadings, (lights fan, rear demister, etc)
 
Try this simple idea, use a jumpstart cable, connect the black lead to the battery negative now clamp the other end to any chunky metal part of the engine(wiggle it to give a good bite) now try loading up the electrical load, try rear screen and headlights, see what happens?
 
Start the engine and turn on your lights. Get someone to stand in front of the car and rev the engine to a fast idle (1500~1800rpm). If the lights get brighter as the revs increase then your alternator's regulator is the problem.

It should allow more current to the battery at low revs and under electrical load.. but reduce the current at high rpm, to avoid over-charging the battery and cooking it. Your symptoms sound like the alternator is not reacting to an increased electrical load.

If you had a new alternator and battery a few years ago, it could be a coincidence or it could not. If your alternator is unbranded or has castings/labels of Marelli, Bosch and Lucas etc. on different parts, then it's been rebuilt, even if it looks new. The regulator could be a quality European replacement or it could be made in a shed in China. You want to see a label on it, ideally with a name of a manufacturer that you've heard of.

If your alternator was definitely a brand new, all-made-by-Denso jobbie, then it's likely to be okay in which case I would look at the earth strap.. not just the connectors but the inner cable itself. If you can find a new one for not much money, I would even just change it as a precaution. Often the cable strands corrode inside the plastic jacket, so you can't see that there's anything wrong with it. If you bend yours about and hear crackling, then that's not a good sign.


Ralf S.
 
Start the engine and turn on your lights. Get someone to stand in front of the car and rev the engine to a fast idle (1500~1800rpm). If the lights get brighter as the revs increase then your alternator's regulator is the problem.
Not necessarily, many cars have a lower voltage when idling.
 
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