Technical Eng. Ctrl. Fault

[staticboy]

That dreaded little red light has appeared on my 2001 JTD 110 ELX Multipla...

We've had the "Fly Boat" for nearly 9 months and she's just clocked 106,000. Only major problem so far was a driveshaft going AWOL but easily fixed.

The light and ENG. CTRL. FAULT message first appeared last week whilst pulling onto a dual-carriageway that was on a slight incline. It was busy so I gave it a little more "welly" than usual along the sliproad to get up to about 60 mph and merge into the flow of traffic. As I hit about 50 mph and was just about to shift into 4th gear (at what I estimate to be about 3,500-4,000 rpm) the alarm beeped and red engine management console light came on.

I panicked a bit and eventually pulled over to read the handbook to find out what this meant - the recommendation being "Go to garage." On the way home the light went off...

It has since happened 3 more times with the light eventually always going off. I assume this is because the ECU has detected a fault but sufficient time and/or mileage has taken place without it re-occuring? I noticed that twice the light went off after a short burst of speed - say hitting 3,000 rpm in 2nd gear to pull away a bit more swiftly than usual. I also noticed that the when the light is on the engine won't rev higher than just over 3,000 rpm which I assume is some sort of "Get You Home" safety mode.

So, the question is which bits of the engine management system do I start pulling off and testing/cleaning? I've removed the connection from the MAF (Mass/Air Flow) sensor but it didn't seem to make any difference. Should I remove and clean the EGR next? Which sensors are the most common culprits likely to cause this fault (before I move on to having the fault codes read and start worrying about expensive failing injectors)?

Also, I've scanned the internet and many threads on this forum to discover if it is possible to get a code reader for the pre-2004 JTD engine in my Multipla. I've seen in-depth discussions about standards, protocols and baud rates which don't scare me as I'm a software engineer but I haven't found anyone anywhere stating "I bought XXX code reader device and used YYY software to get the fault codes out my 2001 JTD 110 ECU." Any advice or am I stuck with taking it to a garage with suitable professional equipment and paying £30-35 per test session?

 

[pig]

If you're anywhere near Northampton, you could go to the UglyBug Ball on Sunday, the bloke from Angel Tuning will do a diagnostic readout for 10 quid.
hth
Neil

 

[Red1Leader]

I've had the same happening on my 02 and the light comes on then goes off, I have been ignoring it like the manual suggests, however now it stays on all the time and the engine has switched into "Limp" mode, I have changed both the ERG and the MAF but it has made no difference, guess it only leaves the Fiat stealer, I guess this will cost

 

[T14086]

only leaves the Fiat stealer, I guess this will cost

but if you went there in first place you would of saved what £200 on parts that you didn't need. Hours diag at £50-60 + parts (if requred) should be enough.

 

[Red1Leader]

Yeah fair comment, I just hate using dealers as I have had some very bad work done before, 1 dealer wrecked the brake disc's with a hammer and then charged me for the replacements, and claimed that it was "mechanics discression", another broke the rear window and replaced it with a different colour and denyed that it had been replaced, and another scratched the interior trim, whilst trying to replace a window winder, nothing personal, just my experiance. My contact with dealers has forced me to become a DIY mechanic for both my car and my motorbike, that's why I use forum's like this for information and that's why I replaced both these parts. I spoke to the service dept at my local delear and they said that they would have replaced both of the MAF and GRP anyway, so it would still have cost me for the parts, plus the £45.00 per hour labour so in the end I have still saved.

 

[T14086]

find another dealer mate, the only reason they would change the air flow meter & EGR valve is because they cant work out which one is faulty (the airflow indirectly control the EGR you see) however there are simple tests to determine which is the faulty part. One good thing is if they fitted wrong part dont pay for it as it was there error...so you do save

Is it 1.9JTD engine you got? I would look at the boost solenoid & wastegate pipe.

 

[RonS]

Have you checked the turbo hoses for security and splits? A leak in one of these will cause reduced power and bring on the light.

 

[Red1Leader]

OK sent to the dealer and had a diagnostic, they said that it was either the supercharger pressure sensor, or the wiring loom and suggested that they changed the sensor as it was the easier option. I agreed as it was only £22.00.

So it is now fixed and only cost me £280.00, this was sensor, labour and the diagnostic.

All I have to do now is fix the air-con which has stopped working since it returned, they deny that they have touched it, so there we go....

 

[ugley bug]

hi have you got part number for supercharger pressure sensor thanks