Technical EGR solenoid valve 8140-47R engine circa 96

[cumbriangeorge]

Whilst fiddling under the bonnet I became aware that the pipe which connects from the egr valve to the valve solenoid had become detached at the solenoid end (and had a split at the end). Although part of the solenoid valve (where two wires plug into the body) is visible I cannot see where the pipe from the egr valve should connect (without removing a lot of components). I have an inspection camera coming that hopefully will allow me to find the port where the pipe connects but if anyone can offer any advice that would be great. The engine runs great with the pipe disconnected and I dont know if the pipe was loose since taking ownership in 2019.

 

[bugsymike]

Whilst fiddling under the bonnet I became aware that the pipe which connects from the egr valve to the valve solenoid had become detached at the solenoid end (and had a split at the end). Although part of the solenoid valve (where two wires plug into the body) is visible I cannot see where the pipe from the egr valve should connect (without removing a lot of components). I have an inspection camera coming that hopefully will allow me to find the port where the pipe connects but if anyone can offer any advice that would be great. The engine runs great with the pipe disconnected and I dont know if the pipe was loose since taking ownership in 2019.

Some photos may help, I in the past had several Iveco Dailys with those SOFIM engines in and was not aware of that age having EGR valves, you say circa 96?

 

[Anthony489]

Hi George

The solenoid valves I am familiar with have three little stubby ports about half an inch long. One (Input) goes to the brake booster vacuum line, the second goes to atmosphere (with a little foam filter if that hasn't dropped off) and the third (output) to the EGR valve. You should be able to feel the stub with no pipe with your fingers, unless its really tight in there.

If the EGR valve gets no vacuum it defaults to the fully closed position and you get no EGR. Some would say that's no bad thing, and the engine will probably feel just fine, though overall NOx emissions will be a bit higher. Depending on the age of the vehicle, the changed pressure conditions may or may not result in a warning light.

 

[cumbriangeorge]

Some photos may help, I in the past had several Iveco Dailys with those SOFIM engines in and was not aware of that age having EGR valves, you say circa 96?

Yes, mine is a 96 (motorhome). My mate had a motorhome with the same engine but without an egr system. I concluded that base vehicles supplied into germany (eg Hymer) were fitted with egr whereas base vehicles supplied into Italy did not. Hopefully the inspection camera will reveal the port missing a pipe but whether there is room to get in and handfeel it remains to be seen. Thanks for replying.

 

[cumbriangeorge]

Hi George

The solenoid valves I am familiar with have three little stubby ports about half an inch long. One (Input) goes to the brake booster vacuum line, the second goes to atmosphere (with a little foam filter if that hasn't dropped off) and the third (output) to the EGR valve. You should be able to feel the stub with no pipe with your fingers, unless its really tight in there.

If the EGR valve gets no vacuum it defaults to the fully closed position and you get no EGR. Some would say that's no bad thing, and the engine will probably feel just fine, though overall NOx emissions will be a bit higher. Depending on the age of the vehicle, the changed pressure conditions may or may not result in a warning light.

Anthony, fortunately there are no fancy warning lights on the dash. The inspection camera will hopefully reveal more. Thanks for replying.

 

[cumbriangeorge]

Got the solenoid valve (for egr) free and moved it without detaching any pipes. Discovered the 4th port (with missing pipe) right on the bottom, this one connects to the egr valve. Almost impossible to see or feel this port with the solenoid valve in situ. Hacked off some of the pipe (cracked at the end) and reattached. So all now connected but how can i know if its working? I have a cheap turbo gauge on the dash which has a vacuum segment which can be teed into the egr vacuum pipe but would there be enough vacuum to register? And as for the solenoid valve.... I am presuming this gets its signal from the ecu under the front seat, bearing in mind the year (96) would this be a simple 12 volt on/off supply (on when conditions are right? Then there is the egr valve itself, is it working or will it be clogged up after 26 years service?

 

[Anthony489]

Hi George

Glad you have made progress

On the later vehicles, the output vacuum varies from nominally 0 to 600 millibars (which is 0 to 0.6 bar or 0 to 18 inches of Mercury if you are old fashioned). That should certainly be enough to register on a vacuum/pressure gauge. These later types are supplied with a pulse width modulated signal, so have smoothly varying control. Yours might be similar, or as you say, it might be a simple on/off control.

 

[cumbriangeorge]

Making progress! Connected a turbo boost gauge to the vacuum port on the egr solenoid valve and i am getting vacuum when taking power off, changing gear, coasting in 4th etc. ECU seems to send a signal in 4 or 5 second bursts. Next step it to check the function of the actual egr valve if i can get it off! Quite pleasantly surprised for a 26 year old vehicle. Video attached but will it show?

 

[cumbriangeorge]

video not loading, any tips?

 

[LandyAndy]

video not loading, any tips?

Video is working

 

[LandyAndy]

Now you just need to find out if the EGR is operating or not.

 

[cumbriangeorge]

Now you just need to find out if the EGR is operating or not.

Thanks. I can hear a slight click when i suck the pipe on the egr valve so I suppose thats a positive sign. At first glance it looks like the flange nuts on the inlet manifold side will clash with the nuts on the exhaust side flange. Not sure if I can ease the inlet manifold flange away as I slacken the nuts, no experience of this part of the engine. And if gaskets are present? I dont have new gaskets (liquid gasket stuff?).

 

[cumbriangeorge]

Now you just need to find out if the EGR is operating or not.

Would I be correct in assuming that the up pipe (from the exhaust) to the egr valve would stay relatively cool but get hot if the egr valve is working as it should? Sorry if it sounds like a daft question.

 

[bugsymike]

Thanks. I can hear a slight click when i suck the pipe on the egr valve so I suppose thats a positive sign. At first glance it looks like the flange nuts on the inlet manifold side will clash with the nuts on the exhaust side flange. Not sure if I can ease the inlet manifold flange away as I slacken the nuts, no experience of this part of the engine. And if gaskets are present? I dont have new gaskets (liquid gasket stuff?).

Probably metal shim type gaskets and if undamaged, a thin drop of gasket liquid exhaust sealant on them both sides if you are lucky.

 

[LandyAndy]

Thanks. I can hear a slight click when i suck the pipe on the egr valve so I suppose thats a positive sign. At first glance it looks like the flange nuts on the inlet manifold side will clash with the nuts on the exhaust side flange. Not sure if I can ease the inlet manifold flange away as I slacken the nuts, no experience of this part of the engine. And if gaskets are present? I dont have new gaskets (liquid gasket stuff?).

If you can hear it move, I’d take that as it’s working. On some models the back of the egr is open so you can shove a finger in there and feel it actually move. There will definitely be gasket there.

 

[cumbriangeorge]

Thanks for all your replies.....

 

[cumbriangeorge]

Update...... the solenoid valve is working, connecting the pipe (which would normally go to the egr valve) to a vac gauge shows good vacuum at various stages of normal driving.

Removed the big airpipe (return from the intercooler) so can see into the metal housing holding the egr valve and the flame start glowplug. Got my inspection camera in and pointed at the egr on the outlet side, I can see movement when sucking on the egr vacuum port. A bit grimy in there but no actual blockages. Connected up the vac pipe to the egr and teed off to the vac gauge. Strange results during the road test, i seem to be picking up some vacuum unless calling for power, perhaps the vacuum in the inlet manifold is getting back through the egr valve?

I dont particularly want to remove the egr valve if i cant clean or replace it but maybe the solution would be to fit blanking plates on the egr and just do without it (some of these 8140-47R engines do not have egr to start with).

And since replacing the flamestart glow plug a couple of years ago it never been started when cold enough to be engaged. . If the flamestart system did engage would the flame clean out the housing going towards the inlet manifold?

Any opinions folks?

 

[jackwhoo]

Hi,
You mention some variants of you engine didnt have egr system.
My opinion is leave it alone.
On turbo engines if the egr valve sticks partially open any boost air is blown straight down exhaust rather than going into the cylinders.
To me it sounds like the failed closed egr valve that you started with has saved you potential no boost problems and gummed up/sludged inlet manifold, inlet valve problems.
Best wishes
Jack