Doblo (Mk1/Mk2) doblo 263

[bugsymike]

I have a 2010 Maxi one also having the 1.6 engine and six speed gearbox along with the 1 tonne payload is ten times better than the 1.3MJ.
I have had many Doblos over the years, though probably still prefer the pulling power of the 1.9JTD, but rust started so time to go.

 

[fiatpoor]

I have a 2010 Maxi one also having the 1.6 engine and six speed gearbox along with the 1 tonne payload is ten times better than the 1.3MJ.
I have had many Doblos over the years, though probably still prefer the pulling power of the 1.9JTD, but rust started so time to go.

did you ever have the crank no start problem in any of your doblos? my garage cant get it started,got my rust sorted they cut the cills out and replaced them,but some welds are showing rust comeing through again.

 

[Mike1alike]

got my rust sorted they cut the cills out and replaced them

Surely you mean the sills there...
What engine do you have? Petrol or diesel?

 

[fiatpoor]

sills aye ! 1.6D 189003 miles runs well when i can get the thing started

 

[bugsymike]

did you ever have the crank no start problem in any of your doblos? my garage cant get it started,got my rust sorted they cut the cills out and replaced them,but some welds are showing rust comeing through again.

Does your immobiliser light come on with your ignition and then go off before you start to crank the engine, if not it will not start.If that light stays on or doesn't come on at all then you will be "flogging a dead horse" re starting engine.
If you have a spare key try that. It is always a good idea to keep a spare key with modern immobiliser systems.
If none of this works then you need to be able to read the Error codes stored on the cars ECU computer.
Was the car starting and running fine before the welding etc. as may be related.
Some get damaged due to leaving the battery connected and the electric welding can give a voltage spike causing damage. Others hopefully if they disconnected the battery before welding can be due to a live wire or earth wire being left off or a poor connection.
To diagnose Error codes on Fiats many on Forum use MES MultiEcuScan tool connected to their computer /laptop/phone etc. If you have access to similar or a good diagnostic garage tool like Snap On then you have a chance of locating the issue. A cheap scan tool will be of little value.

 

[Mike1alike]

Since it runs fine once it starts, the issue is likely during cranking rather than a general engine fault.
On these 1.6 diesels, two key things to check are:
• Engine RPM while cranking — if it shows 0 rpm, suspect the crankshaft sensor or its wiring.
• Fuel rail pressure during crank. It needs to build enough pressure (around 250+ bar) or the ECU won’t inject fuel.
Those two checks will usually point you in the right direction for a crank-no-start on these engines.

 

[bugsymike]

Sorry did I misunderstand I thought it was a non runner since the welding?

 

[Mike1alike]

Does your immobiliser light come on with your ignition and then go off before you start to crank the engine

Yes, it's good to make sure the IMMO is not blocking the start.
If there is any problem it show warning light.
But also prevents start completely (not intermittent), so probably less likely here being mentioned "runs well when i can get the thing started".

 

[Mike1alike]

Sorry did I misunderstand I thought it was a non runner since the welding?

Might be! There was not much and clear details given.
I thought the problems were there before welding...

 

[bugsymike]

Yes, it's good to make sure the IMMO is not blocking the start.
If there is any problem it show warning light.
But also prevents start completely (not intermittent), so probably less likely here being mentioned "runs well when i can get the thing started".

Perhaps OP can confirm.

 

[fiatpoor]

Perhaps OP can confirm.

sorry bud van would start in morning then cut out leaveing me stranded,got it going again after it cooled down took it to garage asked to find fault and fix 1 month later still not fixed,they cant find any fault codes,welding was last year sorry,i changed fuel an air filter no diffrence ,immobilisor light comes on when cranking, only got one key, garage has this new whoopdeedoo scanners inc snap on mes an multiscan

 

[fiatpoor]

sorry bud van would start in morning then cut out leaveing me stranded,got it going again after it cooled down took it to garage asked to find fault and fix 1 month later still not fixed,they cant find any fault codes,welding was last year sorry,i changed fuel an air filter no diffrence ,immobilisor light comes on when cranking, only got one key, garage has this new whoopdeedoo scanners inc snap on mes an multiscan

oh and they fitted new timeing belt and water pump september 2025

 

[Mike1alike]

sorry bud van would start in morning then cut out leaveing me stranded,got it going again after it cooled down

That sounds very much as faulty crankshaft positioning sensor. And it does exactly that, gives no error code when faulty. Just because it sends no signal, ECU doesn't "see" the engine is actually revolving so gives no fuel, that's why no start.

 

[fiatpoor]

thankyou very much for that info bud i,ll phone him tommorrow ....cheers ahl let u know how it goes....

 

[bugsymike]

thankyou very much for that info bud i,ll phone him tommorrow ....cheers ahl let u know how it goes....

Further to that as @Mike1alike has said see if rev counter reacts when starter turning, if not it points to crank sensor.

 

[fiatpoor]

Further to that as @Mike1alike has said see if rev counter reacts when starter turning, if not it points to crank sensor.

they ignored your advice and now want to replace the HPFP ,it is a high mileage rightenuff @ 183,000 been in garage since feb17

 

[Mike1alike]

they ignored your advice and now want to replace the HPFP ,it is a high mileage rightenuff @ 183,000 been in garage since feb17

Replacing an HPFP without confirming rail pressure is a very expensive guess.

 

[Mike1alike]

HPFP means high pressure fuel pump, it’s what creates the fuel pressure needed for the injectors. If it’s not building pressure, the engine will crank but won’t start.
That said, it should be properly diagnosed (checking rail pressure while cranking) before replacing it, as it’s not a cheap part.

 

[Mike1alike]

Before replacing the HPFP, it really needs a basic check of fuel pressure and signals, otherwise it’s just guessing.
A proper diagnostic should be:
Check rail pressure while cranking (live data)
– You should see it rise to at least ~250–300 bar
– If it stays very low → then yes, suspect HPFP or supply issue
Check low-pressure fuel supply to the pump
– Is fuel actually reaching the HP pump?
– Blocked filter or weak lift pump can cause the same no-start.
Check crankshaft sensor signal (RPM while cranking)
– If there’s no RPM reading, it won’t start regardless of fuel
Check camshaft sensor (sync)
– Loss of sync can also give crank/no start
Check injector leak-off (return test)
– Excessive leak-off can prevent rail pressure building
Only if rail pressure is confirmed low and supply is good should the HPFP be blamed.
After 3 months and guessing parts, I’d seriously consider moving it to a diesel specialist with proper diagnostic equipment.