Technical DIY wheel alignment

Currently reading:
Technical DIY wheel alignment

MarkX

Member
Joined
Mar 21, 2013
Messages
314
Points
62
Hi,

After doing my wishbones and track rod ends, I need to check and/or set the wheel alignment. Thinking about trying the DIY string method which I've been reading about and watching YT videos on. A ball of string is a lot cheaper than the £25 the garage is charging, and I have heard they don't always get it right.

2 questions, if anyone knows the answers:

1. Is the n/s to o/s wheel hub to wheel hub distance (or rim to rim distance) the same at the front and the back of a Multipla? ie. is the distance between the 2 front wheels the same as the distance between the two rear wheels?

2. What is the front wheel toe-in/toe-out angle on a Multipla? Is it anything significant, or can I just set the front wheels parallel to each other which would be good enough?

PS. The car seems to steering fine *without* doing the tracking, but...

Mark
 
Last edited:
Thanks wiltshire. Blimey a few mm, it's not much.
 
Last edited:
The book figures are wrong on these.
It is a while since, I looked at it but set as factory fronts scrub edges in my experience.
 
If I take the lower limit -3 +/- *plus* 1mm gives -2mm rim to rim. That's only 1mm per wheel. Be surprised if even a garage could set it that accurate on an old car.

Maybe just set the wheels parallel to each other?

FYI: I read that:
- a *negative* toe value means wheels *splayed out* at the front
- a *positive* toe value means wheels *angled in* at the front

How about this for an idea - paint a thin white line across the tyre tread, and see if it wears off evenly or not?
 
Last edited:
Alignment is not as per book/factory.The settings are different. Need to search or someone needs to shout up settings.
 
Hey Mark I did my multi exactly like you are planning.
It’s easy enough, I’d recommend you pop off the front wheels and loosen the track rod ends... they can be a real pig and you don’t want to be struggling with them when your trying to avoid a bit of string.
I can’t recall if front axle wider or not than rear, but it shouldn’t make a difference.
Get car on good level surface that you can push it back and forward easily on.
I used 2 axel stands to tension the string, make sure it’s parallel with rear rim, Centre steering wheel and set to 1 or 2 mm toe in on front rim(you may need to roll car back and forward after each adjustment to see how far you really adjusted it.
I’d recommend using a marker on your steering wheel so it’s in exact position for both sides.
That’s it... bit fiddly but saved me 40€ and it was perfect as I had it tested afterwards(our version of MOT tests front wheel alignment)
And for the first time ever the steering wheel was pointing the right way!
Pity the multi is dead now.. but that’s another story!
Marty.
 
Its a pity that you can no longer get a DIY device called Gunson Trakrite.Update there is one on ebay £24 99p

All that was required was to run each of the front wheels one at a time over it,
and a little arrow give you the read out and if too much toe in or out. adjust as required and non of my cars tyres have ever been worn incorectly and car runs true.

Ade:wave:
 
Last edited:
Thx martyc5674 and ADRIAN22, useful info.

Need to find a flat place to do the tracking. Already bought some string so will have a go with that first. Giving serious consideration to the Trakrite. Cheapest I can see on Ebay is £46 inc Click and Collect. Garages quoted me £25 to £30 to do tracking. So 2 goes and it pays for itself. Has got a lot of favourable reviews.
 
Last edited:
String is cheaper!...
a garage I used go to years ago used what I can only describe as a giant vernier calipers that would wrap around the car.. he would measure rim to rim distance with it. Pure simplicity.
The ****e they go on with these days... lasers etc trying to over complicate things!!
 
Back
Top