Technical Cylinder Head Removal Tool

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Technical Cylinder Head Removal Tool

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I need to pull the head on my 1969 500L.
The manual says to use a special fancy shop tool, which I suspect only an Italian dealer would have.
Any advice on how to get the head off here at home?
Thanks!
 
Welcome to the forum.

Yes, the Fiat FSM DOES state to use that interesting head removal tool.

When I needed to remove my head to repair my rocker shaft studs I just removed the retention hardware and lifted off the head. It was easy.


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I've got the fancy shop tool; I bought it for its rarity value but I've never needed it. :)
I have a fancy "special tool" for removing the cylinder head---it comes in pairs and is called "right and left hands"---seriously, you do NOT need a special tool to remove/refit the cylinder head.
 
Thanks everybody!
Once I got the rocker cover off, I found an obvious problem. The nut holding the rocker arm assembly down was loose, and one of the rockers is not even centered on the push rod, as shown in photo.
Question: what should the torque be on this rocker hold down nut?
Possibly this is the whole problem and the head may not need to come off!?
 

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Thanks everybody!
Once I got the rocker cover off, I found an obvious problem. The nut holding the rocker arm assembly down was loose, and one of the rockers is not even centered on the push rod, as shown in photo.
Question: what should the torque be on this rocker hold down nut?
Possibly this is the whole problem and the head may not need to come off!?
Personally, I would first of all fit the rocker back into the pushrod, tighten everything down, check the tappet clearances and see how things go. The torque for the rocker-shaft nuts is:--18 ft lb (25 Nm). The problem with tightening these 2 nuts up with a torque-wrench is the length of the stud above the nut----a 13mm socket THAT long will be difficult to find. You might be able to make up a simple tool utilising a box spanner and, with one end closed up to accept the drive of the torque wrench. I must admit, I have built enough of these engines up that I just do these 2 nuts up--tight! Never (yet!) had one come undone. When you refit the rocker-shaft, make sure that the part that goes over the oil-supply (to the rockers) tube is sitting correctly---I have seen it where the top casting for the tube has not been fitted over the tube, with a consequant loss of lubrication to the rockers.
 
Personally, I would first of all fit the rocker back into the pushrod, tighten everything down, check the tappet clearances and see how things go. The torque for the rocker-shaft nuts is:--18 ft lb (25 Nm). The problem with tightening these 2 nuts up with a torque-wrench is the length of the stud above the nut----a 13mm socket THAT long will be difficult to find. You might be able to make up a simple tool utilising a box spanner and, with one end closed up to accept the drive of the torque wrench. I must admit, I have built enough of these engines up that I just do these 2 nuts up--tight! Never (yet!) had one come undone. When you refit the rocker-shaft, make sure that the part that goes over the oil-supply (to the rockers) tube is sitting correctly---I have seen it where the top casting for the tube has not been fitted over the tube, with a consequant loss of lubrication to the rockers.
Thanks for this. I got to the bottom of the issue:
The rocker shaft stud is spun in its hole, which is why it was loose. So the head will go to the machine shop for a heli-coil or who knows what??
It's always something new!
Have a great day.
 
When I needed to remove my head to repair my rocker shaft studs I just removed the retention hardware and lifted off the head. It was easy.

Thanks for this. I got to the bottom of the issue:
The rocker shaft stud is spun in its hole, which is why it was loose. So the head will go to the machine shop for a heli-coil or who knows what??
It's always something new!
Have a great day.
That was the problem w/ my head, shown in my link.

Mine was carefully repaired by me, as shown in my topic.

Good luck.
 
Wingless,
Thank you so much for your previous write-up! My stud looks exactly like yours, wrapped in aluminum. Now I know just what to do.
I use "self-tapping steel inserts" for this type of job.This is a proceedure that the careful mechanic can carry out himself very easily. They are very strong,and in fact "Abarth factory" used these inserts themselves, I accept that you are not probably able to buy them from the same companies that I do (MEMFST or "The Steel Insert Company), but there must be companies that sell similar products in the USA. If you get really stuck, contact me directly and I will see what I can organise for you ( [email protected] )
 
I need to pull the head on my 1969 500L.
The manual says to use a special fancy shop tool, which I suspect only an Italian dealer would have.
Any advice on how to get the head off here at home?
Thanks!

I dug out the fancy tool today. I always buy Fiat 500-specific, official workshop tools when I see them.
Other useless things I own are the special drift for installing and removing the silentblocs from the kingpin housing and spring (good luck with that job!), clutch alignment tool, the timing quadrant, (nice but unnecessary), a drift for installing the kingpin bushes (pointless), and a tappet adjuster key. the last item is genuinely useful for quickly fine-tuning the tappets.
 

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