Technical Coolant flush

[jonti]

Before I put the head back and a spanking new waterpump on tomorrow, is there a quick, safe and easy way to flush out the residual coolant lurking in the bottom end? This may be obvious - or not - come daylight tomorrow, but as usual it's a week (and several Christmas parties) since I last saw the engine...

Cheers

 

[dazzo666]

hii johnti, im sure you can pick up a good quality flush from your local car accesories shop or Halfords, Rad flush or the likes would do the job i wold say.....

 

[SteveNZ]

Not really. Put it back together and flush it out after. Its easier that way.

 

[jonti]

Thanks for this. Presume with the head on I can stick a hose in one hole in it and it will force water down, round then up and out of the other hole(s).

Dazzo, I MIGHT need a boot catch after all.

 

[SteveNZ]

Yep, just stick the hose up one of the heater hoses (with heater tap open) it should flush it all out well. disconect the bottom radiator hose too.

 

[sumplug]

If you have water in your oil sump pan which it will have if gasket gone, only real way of cleaning it out is to remove the sump pan and clean it thoroughly, [It will also give you a chance to check the crank bearings and oil pump for play].This will remove any crud that is present as well, and also run the flushing oil through although i dont like these as they can rarely move crud from around engine and block an important oilway [ seen this done on a 16v fiat engine].
Oh by the way, have you checked the head for true straightness?

Andy.

 

[dazzo666]

Dazzo, I MIGHT need a boot catch after all. [/QUOTE]

nice one mate....its here and waiting for you , let me know and i will send to you...

 

[jonti]

Sumplug - thanks for making these points. I have had the head skimmed - though putting it back on without a hoist is a pain though what with the weight of the head and the gasket kept slipping off (no purchase on the mega clean wet and dried block surface ) and the head has now got some very light scratching around the locating dowels. Then taking it off again as a tight radius hose between the block and the head wouldn't retro fit! However, as these scratches don't extend to the waterways I hope it will be ok.

The rear sump screws look to be obscured by the drive shaft, I'm not sure I can get the sump off myself. Its an interesting point about the oil pump, recorded oil pressure has always v low on the gauge (does this equate to the pump?) ) for the last 70k miles. But the evidence points towards a dodgy gauge.

 

[sumplug]

Sumplug - thanks for making these points. I have had the head skimmed - though putting it back on without a hoist is a pain though what with the weight of the head and the gasket kept slipping off (no purchase on the mega clean wet and dried block surface ) and the head has now got some very light scratching around the locating dowels. Then taking it off again as a tight radius hose between the block and the head wouldn't retro fit! However, as these scratches don't extend to the waterways I hope it will be ok.

The rear sump screws look to be obscured by the drive shaft, I'm not sure I can get the sump off myself. Its an interesting point about the oil pump, recorded oil pressure has always v low on the gauge (does this equate to the pump?) ) for the last 70k miles. But the evidence points towards a dodgy gauge.

I would say its the oil pump sender or more proberly the gauge thats faulty.
I would try and get the sump off as it will tell you the condition of the bottom end. For what its worth, there are repair kits for the oil pump, and proberly well worth the job. At least you will know its healthy. Good luck.

Andy.