General Conversion from LHD to RHD
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General Conversion from LHD to RHD
the hobbler
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I do not think so---I think that you will find that the LHD parts are biased in the opposite direction to the RHD parts. If you find an early, completely knackered (body-wise) RHD 126 I think that you will be able use the parts off this car, but not sadly, the pedalbox--the 500 and 126 versions are different. You will also find that the 500 LHD pedal box is totally different to the RHD version and practically nothing is interchangeable between the 2. Why not leave it LHD---you will soon get used to having the steering wheel on the 'wrong' side.
Thanks Hobbler
I have a RHD steering box, what I'm really after is a RHD steering idler arm
Have no idea were to get one, everyone sells has LHD...
Is there any way to fabricate one or do you know someone that sells rack and pinion steering?
I could drive it LHD but prefer it if it was RHD...Australia
I have a RHD steering box, what I'm really after is a RHD steering idler arm
Have no idea were to get one, everyone sells has LHD...
Is there any way to fabricate one or do you know someone that sells rack and pinion steering?
I could drive it LHD but prefer it if it was RHD...Australia
I'd leave it as it is. LHD parts are more plentiful. Sitting the other side of the car will make little difference to your position on the road, and you won't be looking for visibility for an overtake will you.
the hobbler
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To fit RHD rack-and-pinion steering you really need to find a wrecked RHD Fiat 652cc 126 (the Mk2 version---the early 594cc ones still had astering box+ idler). You need the rack, and the complete steering column out of the car. The brackets to mount the rack to the body are available commercially. If you can find an early RHD (594cc) 126, I think that you can use the idler off that.
The alternative is to have a nice word with some of our New Zealand colleagues because I am led to believe that there are still some 'body-beyond-repair' 500s in a yard in North Island
The alternative is to have a nice word with some of our New Zealand colleagues because I am led to believe that there are still some 'body-beyond-repair' 500s in a yard in North Island
On my first drive (to mot station) I found the steering play on my RHD 500 L was horrible and after much trying I could not improve it much. So I converted to a rack from a 126. I bought the bracket I think from Axel Gerst and just offered everything up . I had to shorten the column bt cutting a section out then welding back together grinding back then sliding a piece of tube over then welding that on as well .Now works a treat. The fault with the boxes is they tend to drip and run dry of oil. RHD parts for the box are virtually unobtainable.
Whilst I agree that the very problem you are facing shows that sticking with LHD, (assuming you have the components for that), make sense with spares supply, I can understand you wanting to retain (convert) to RHD.
If you mounted the LHD steering-arm centrally to the travel of the RHD steering-box, (which would be a matter of trial and error), and matched that orientation of the idler-arm you might be able to make it work.
You would then have to make a custom or adjustable centre-link and would undoubtedly end up needng to make longer outer track-rods. You could do a mock-up of this using simple wooden connectors and bolts through the balljoint holes. This would show whether or not the new geometry caused anything to rub or catch on anything else and whether or not you could achieve full lock.
I think that the above is likely to be a problem and I'm unsure if this would affect the ability of the steering to self-centre. But for the price of a few slats of wood and an hour or so with a spanner it would be worth a try before making more radical moves.
If you mounted the LHD steering-arm centrally to the travel of the RHD steering-box, (which would be a matter of trial and error), and matched that orientation of the idler-arm you might be able to make it work.
You would then have to make a custom or adjustable centre-link and would undoubtedly end up needng to make longer outer track-rods. You could do a mock-up of this using simple wooden connectors and bolts through the balljoint holes. This would show whether or not the new geometry caused anything to rub or catch on anything else and whether or not you could achieve full lock.
I think that the above is likely to be a problem and I'm unsure if this would affect the ability of the steering to self-centre. But for the price of a few slats of wood and an hour or so with a spanner it would be worth a try before making more radical moves.
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Hi,
not sure how far you are taking the conversion, but while you are thinking about the steering setup you also need to think about:
Headlights. You probably have left hand units.
Wipers and washers. New holes if you are gong to move them. I think arm and blade holder are 'handed' as well. Wiper linkages under the bonnet may be screwy as well.
Wiring loom. You might need to make up an extension to reach the other side of the car.
Switch for the interior light in the door jamb has to be moved. (New hole)
Speedo, dash switches, warning lights and washer pump need to be moved. (New holes)
Pedal box is different and the brake master and lines will need to be changed. (Or you could make it a mandatory two person driver and have the passenger work the pedals while you 'steer and gear'. What a hoot that would be.)
Dash knee pads are different. (I don't think they can just be reversed)
In all this, each hole means the old one has to be filled.
Interior door handle inclination will be OK.
Some things like headlights and the door switch you might not worry about, but others will need consideration.
If I have over thought any of this the others in the forum will bring me back to earth gently as they always do.
Regards
Joe R
not sure how far you are taking the conversion, but while you are thinking about the steering setup you also need to think about:
Headlights. You probably have left hand units.
Wipers and washers. New holes if you are gong to move them. I think arm and blade holder are 'handed' as well. Wiper linkages under the bonnet may be screwy as well.
Wiring loom. You might need to make up an extension to reach the other side of the car.
Switch for the interior light in the door jamb has to be moved. (New hole)
Speedo, dash switches, warning lights and washer pump need to be moved. (New holes)
Pedal box is different and the brake master and lines will need to be changed. (Or you could make it a mandatory two person driver and have the passenger work the pedals while you 'steer and gear'. What a hoot that would be.)
Dash knee pads are different. (I don't think they can just be reversed)
In all this, each hole means the old one has to be filled.
Interior door handle inclination will be OK.
Some things like headlights and the door switch you might not worry about, but others will need consideration.
If I have over thought any of this the others in the forum will bring me back to earth gently as they always do.
Regards
Joe R
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To add my 'tuppence-ha'penny' to what 'tjmra' (Joe R) has listed above about things that may need to be changed if you convert from lhd to rhd :-
If you have a toughened glass windscreen, the 'clear zone' on the screen will be on the wrong side after the conversion. (i.e toughened screens have an area that remains relatively clear to see through when the screen is smashed, this area is supposed to be situated in front of the driver).
Iirc, one possible difference between the lhd and rhd steering arms could be that the lock stops are in the wrong places or incorrectly angled if swapped over. Have you checked if the steering arm part no's for lhd and rhd models are different. Isn't there also a 'master spline' in the arm, so that it can only be fitted in one position onto the steering box? (might not make any difference though in the case of this conversion?).
Al. :devil:
If you have a toughened glass windscreen, the 'clear zone' on the screen will be on the wrong side after the conversion. (i.e toughened screens have an area that remains relatively clear to see through when the screen is smashed, this area is supposed to be situated in front of the driver).
Iirc, one possible difference between the lhd and rhd steering arms could be that the lock stops are in the wrong places or incorrectly angled if swapped over. Have you checked if the steering arm part no's for lhd and rhd models are different. Isn't there also a 'master spline' in the arm, so that it can only be fitted in one position onto the steering box? (might not make any difference though in the case of this conversion?).
Al. :devil:
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the hobbler
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I don't think that there can be a 'master-spline' Al---I managed to find, and purchase, a fully overhauled RHD steering box for my 500. Having installed it I found that the arm had been fitted 1 spline out--lots of RH lock, very little LH lock. I was able to carefully remove the arm and move it round one spline, all done in-situ (very lucky).
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Hi Giz,
Flik me email maybe able to help with some R/h/d bits. Def have pedal box and maybe idle arm.
[email protected]
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Your car looks amazing Chris...