Tuning Choke cable

[stocky]

Hi my choke cable has snapped at the carb nut.
Will I have to fit a new one or is there usually enough at the lever end to just move it along as only need about 10mm to go through nut?
If so how do tou access lever connection as I can find in manual, thanks.

 

[stocky]

Just an update, I've removed the old cable and ordered a new one from Ricambi.
Think I'm going to try and use the old sleeve and slide the new inner wire in as it looks a tricky job to remove?

 

[the hobbler]

Just an update, I've removed the old cable and ordered a new one from Ricambi.
Think I'm going to try and use the old sleeve and slide the new inner wire in as it looks a tricky job to remove?

You cannot"slide the new one in". At the lever end of the choke cable is a crimped ring, which fits over a pin at the bottom of the 'choke' lever. Also, if a correct choke-cable has been fitted, there is a crimped-on little collar at the lever end of the choke-cable outer, which is used to prevent the 'outer' from moving when the choke-lever is operated.
Unfortunately, the only way to renew the 'choke' cable is from inside the car. You will find the job a lot easier if (a) you have the rear of the car up on stands---high enough that you can work under the car and (b) if you remove one of the seats. Then remove the small cover-panel (on top of the central 'tunnel') just under the front of the rear seat. Before you remove the old cable, check where it 'runs' under the car. DISCONNECT THE BATTERY. The lever panel is held down with 2 x 13mm (headed) screws. Withe 2 screws removed you can pull the lever-unit clear of the centre-tunnel---this why you need to have the battery disconnected, because as you pull the lever-unit into the car, you will effectively pull the starter into the cranking position. carefully remove the pin from the bottom of the STARTER lever, and slip a long cable-tie or a piece of wire or string through the eye of the starter-pull cable (so that you don't lose it into the centre-tunnel). Doing this will enable you to pull the lever-unit out far enough that you can easily remove the old choke-able, and fit the new cable---again, note where the old cable went though the engine-bay bulk-head, just under the cover-panel. You will find that the 'inner' of the new cable is much longer than you will require---fit it into the carburettor, tighten the clamps for the both the outer and inner cables, ensure that the choke is being fully pulled ON and OFF, trim the inner to length. Use new split-pins, and refit all the panelling and the seat. Not a difficult job, just a mite tedious.

 

[stocky]

You cannot"slide the new one in". At the lever end of the choke cable is a crimped ring, which fits over a pin at the bottom of the 'choke' lever. Also, if a correct choke-cable has been fitted, there is a crimped-on little collar at the lever end of the choke-cable outer, which is used to prevent the 'outer' from moving when the choke-lever is operated.
Unfortunately, the only way to renew the 'choke' cable is from inside the car. You will find the job a lot easier if (a) you have the rear of the car up on stands---high enough that you can work under the car and (b) if you remove one of the seats. Then remove the small cover-panel (on top of the central 'tunnel') just under the front of the rear seat. Before you remove the old cable, check where it 'runs' under the car. DISCONNECT THE BATTERY. The lever panel is held down with 2 x 13mm (headed) screws. Withe 2 screws removed you can pull the lever-unit clear of the centre-tunnel---this why you need to have the battery disconnected, because as you pull the lever-unit into the car, you will effectively pull the starter into the cranking position. carefully remove the pin from the bottom of the STARTER lever, and slip a long cable-tie or a piece of wire or string through the eye of the starter-pull cable (so that you don't lose it into the centre-tunnel). Doing this will enable you to pull the lever-unit out far enough that you can easily remove the old choke-able, and fit the new cable---again, note where the old cable went though the engine-bay bulk-head, just under the cover-panel. You will find that the 'inner' of the new cable is much longer than you will require---fit it into the carburettor, tighten the clamps for the both the outer and inner cables, ensure that the choke is being fully pulled ON and OFF, trim the inner to length. Use new split-pins, and refit all the panelling and the seat. Not a difficult job, just a mite tedious.

Thanks for this, very useful.
This is what I'd done before your reply.
Disconnected the starter motor cable at the starter. This enabled me to lift out the starter/choke lever unit enough to disconnect the choke cable.
Removed inspection plate by back seat so Icould see where it went.
Slid inner cable out lever end, came out easy.
The inner cable fitted and the new one is just a wire carb end so I can't see any reason I can't grease new inner cable and slide it in from the lever end and it should appear near the carb?
Going to try that first, will let you know how I fair, should be here Friday.

 

[stocky]

So cable arrived today. Took new wire out of sleeve and fed in existing outer sleeve from lever end. Slid straight through, cut to length and connected to carb, sorted, only took ten minutes, relieved.