Tuning Changing the spark plugs
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Tuning Changing the spark plugs
Not specific to the 500x but should be something like this on the Tipo should give you enough of an idea to get started with
Engine cover and a few other parts may be different
https://www.fiatforum.com/tipo-guides/473983-1-4-plug-change.html
Engine cover and a few other parts may be different
https://www.fiatforum.com/tipo-guides/473983-1-4-plug-change.html
Last time I looked it is straight forward.
1) Remove the large black plastic engine top cover (two bolts & central back pop-on pop-off rubber mount
2) Unplug the four cables that connect to the spark coil packs
3) Lift of the coil packs
4) Remove the spark plugs - you will require a long reach spark plug socket and extension bar as the spark plugs are well recessed in the top of the cylinder head
The Captain 007
Member
Hi s130 or Anyone who knows .....
Step 1 above. Sorry if it seems a dumb question but I cannot find how to release the rear 'pop on pop off rubber mount'
Of course in my defence, it doesnt help that I cannot see it but i have tried pulling up, down, left, right. If feels as though it is bolted on :-/
Obviously the two bolts came out no porblem. Just changed a coil and had to do it struggling holding the cover up while doing it. Now decided to change all the plugs but dont fancy that same struggle. Does anyone have a picture from a manual or something to show that rear attachment? Even feeling with my hands I cannot find it
I know, I know but .......
Pretty sure the pop off is central rear of the cover.
Try this:
Working from rear left to right grasp rear edge and gently try to raise. Should flex easily. Work your was left to right. Deflection should become less. Repeat from right to left. This should locate and confirm the left to right result. Now put feel underneath in inwards towards you. You should be able to locate a bracket/post with a rubber grommet attached to the top it. This is the exact place you can pull the cover off. NOTE! If the engine is cold then the rubber grommet will be firm. Initially try with the engine and bay hot.
Try this:
Working from rear left to right grasp rear edge and gently try to raise. Should flex easily. Work your was left to right. Deflection should become less. Repeat from right to left. This should locate and confirm the left to right result. Now put feel underneath in inwards towards you. You should be able to locate a bracket/post with a rubber grommet attached to the top it. This is the exact place you can pull the cover off. NOTE! If the engine is cold then the rubber grommet will be firm. Initially try with the engine and bay hot.
The Captain 007
Member
Thanks S130
Well, ..... I tried :-/ When raising the cover I can vaguely see a bracket at the rear. There is flex enough for me to rais it up enough to struggle and do things but it feels as if the bracket is about 15 cm long and bolts to some obscure part of the rear of the engine. Logically that would not make too much sense as people will obviously have to remove it foer serving etc., so it makes perfect sense that there should be some sort of easy release. However, if I used any more force, I would break it, hence I struggled on and changed all the plugs with a few minor cuts to my arms where the edge of the cover was pressing on them while undoing bolts and changing the plugs.
Always thought of myself as a reasonably good engineer but this darned thing has me beat. Anyway job is done now. I will try harder next time.
As an aside, I am not looking forward to taking it off again. the left bolt on this third time of taking the top cover off (or half off) was really hard to undo and felt on the verge of snaping. For some reason this time it remained locked to the fixed nut in the head and it was that that unscrewed from the head rather than the bolt that goes into it. Secondly number 2 cylinder coil bolt was hard and when replacing it, it screwed in 3/4 then became very tight as if it was going into the wrong thread. I screwed it back out and there was a little thread helicoil on the bottom portion so I wire brushed it off and put back. Again when it got to the last portion it became extremely tight and I just gently continued until it had the coil mildly gripped but it really did feel as though I was going to strip it.
Completed a full service now but did not see where the Auto gearbox filler is. I did see a largebolt underneath that looks like a drain plug on the bottom of the front Diff but not sure where I wild fill it up if I did drain it? Is there even a dipstick or something for the auto box?
Well, ..... I tried :-/ When raising the cover I can vaguely see a bracket at the rear. There is flex enough for me to rais it up enough to struggle and do things but it feels as if the bracket is about 15 cm long and bolts to some obscure part of the rear of the engine. Logically that would not make too much sense as people will obviously have to remove it foer serving etc., so it makes perfect sense that there should be some sort of easy release. However, if I used any more force, I would break it, hence I struggled on and changed all the plugs with a few minor cuts to my arms where the edge of the cover was pressing on them while undoing bolts and changing the plugs.
Always thought of myself as a reasonably good engineer but this darned thing has me beat. Anyway job is done now. I will try harder next time.
As an aside, I am not looking forward to taking it off again. the left bolt on this third time of taking the top cover off (or half off) was really hard to undo and felt on the verge of snaping. For some reason this time it remained locked to the fixed nut in the head and it was that that unscrewed from the head rather than the bolt that goes into it. Secondly number 2 cylinder coil bolt was hard and when replacing it, it screwed in 3/4 then became very tight as if it was going into the wrong thread. I screwed it back out and there was a little thread helicoil on the bottom portion so I wire brushed it off and put back. Again when it got to the last portion it became extremely tight and I just gently continued until it had the coil mildly gripped but it really did feel as though I was going to strip it.
Completed a full service now but did not see where the Auto gearbox filler is. I did see a largebolt underneath that looks like a drain plug on the bottom of the front Diff but not sure where I wild fill it up if I did drain it? Is there even a dipstick or something for the auto box?
You are talking about the engine black plastic top cover? only required the two top bolts to be removed and a rear vertical pull up / yank.
If I get a moment today/tomorrow I'll take mine off and take a couple of pictures. Meanwhile
If I get a moment today/tomorrow I'll take mine off and take a couple of pictures. Meanwhile
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The Captain 007
Member
Thank you. I did try again. Mine was pulled upwards pretty hard but it really feels as though it is bolted on. If I pull any harder I am convinced I will break something. Anyway, all dont and back together. Running like a dream now
Also I discovered a workaround for the Check Break System light keep coming on. If it happens it automatically turns the system off and there is a small warning light to say it is turned off. Simply go into the settings on the radio (confusing because the driver stability is also available on the steering wheel menue (but cannot change anything there)) and turn the collision warning system back on. The light disappears. Also by setting it to 'far' rather than near or medium, it takes a few days to come back on. Not ideal perhaps but it works.
Also I discovered a workaround for the Check Break System light keep coming on. If it happens it automatically turns the system off and there is a small warning light to say it is turned off. Simply go into the settings on the radio (confusing because the driver stability is also available on the steering wheel menue (but cannot change anything there)) and turn the collision warning system back on. The light disappears. Also by setting it to 'far' rather than near or medium, it takes a few days to come back on. Not ideal perhaps but it works.
The Captain 007
Member
Also a problem with the locking on the Abarth 595. I will post in a separate thread.
Sorry for the delay. Here are the pictures from my 500X
Underside Of Engine Cover. Note long vertical leg at back with rubber grommet insert.
Leg and rubber insert in detail.
Ball joint mount to left of white label on hose.
Underside Of Engine Cover. Note long vertical leg at back with rubber grommet insert.
Leg and rubber insert in detail.
Ball joint mount to left of white label on hose.
