Technical  Changing the Radiator Coolant

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Technical  Changing the Radiator Coolant

Oh, Crikey , now I am starting worry!
In for a penny etc, Ive bought 10 ltrs of RTU coolant Pink , based on OAT technology so I hope that should be ok. Concerned about the brown staining(sic) of the expansion tank . Have also bought a bottle of radflush, might leave that until I have I stuck the garden hose in places. Oh and repalcement worm drive clamps for the bottom hose
Thanks everyone for the advice
Mike
Radflush was one that did for the engine in my Citroen CX. TBF, there must have been issues already, as it had plain water for some time due to a leaking water pump. Plus I ;left it in a bit too long. Stick to the recommended time, or maybe a bit less, it's likely to have a different formula now as I had that 40 odd years ago. Start with plain water, see how it goes.
 
I think the flushing agent was based on caustic soda, so unlikely to be in use these days.
I don't think they've used caustic soda in these products, not even in the old days. Did they...?!
Can't use caustic soda, it attacks every gasket it meets and dvdn the hoses.
The citric acid is the best solution to flush the cooling system.
 
I don't think they've used caustic soda in these products, not even in the old days. Did they...?!
Can't use caustic soda, it attacks every gasket it meets and dvdn the hoses.
The citric acid is the best solution to flush the cooling system.
Yes in the past, mostly before aluminium cylinder heads etc.:)
 
I would just try a gentle back flush of the radiator to start with.
If you follow the instructions on the rad flush and only leave in for the minimum time recommended it should be OK.
Where they are a strong corrosive flush then more likely to cause damage if rad is weak.
I once saw a guy flush an old Ford Transit radiator, he left the flush in to long and the rusty core of the radiator gave up and water was leaking everywhere, you could argue the radiator was stuffed already.:)
I think the flushing agent was based on caustic soda, so unlikely to be in use these days.
Mannol is a well known company so their products should be fairly safe.
 
Mainly because those things worked, it was just the side effects that were an issue.
Mind you aluminium radiators these days, not the old brass ones.;)
Thank you all,
I shouldn't have overlooked the darkening of the coolant!
My mechanic who is changing the Cambelt etc confirms that the water pump is not leaking...but the oil cooler connector pipes are very rusty, this may be the source of the rustyness?
So for now we've decided not to stress the system by flushing & changing coolant.
A replacement cooler does not seem to be available so I would welcome advice regarding
1 do I need a cooler?
2 can the pipes be repaired? Seems to be poor plating and road splash so for now I have coated them with grease.
Suggestions please!
Mike S
 
Thank you all,
I shouldn't have overlooked the darkening of the coolant!
My mechanic who is changing the Cambelt etc confirms that the water pump is not leaking...but the oil cooler connector pipes are very rusty, this may be the source of the rustyness?
So for now we've decided not to stress the system by flushing & changing coolant.
A replacement cooler does not seem to be available so I would welcome advice regarding
1 do I need a cooler?
2 can the pipes be repaired? Seems to be poor plating and road splash so for now I have coated them with grease.
Suggestions please!
Mike S
Your mechanic is looking at the vehicle, so best person to judge.
Re coolant if not unduly contaminated then in this situation I would just make sure the antifreeze strength is correct to protect the engine.
Re pipes I tend to think if rusty then grease will make little difference as the "horse has already bolted" so if you can locate new pipe then change it, but apart from that just keep an eye on the coolant regularly.
 
i would just pull the bottom hose off and let all the old coolant out, stick a hose in the rad bottle and flush it through till clear water came out, put the hose back on, fill with plain water, pull the hose again and look at the colour of the stuff coming out, repeat this a few times till your happy.
Then i would pop the hose back on and top it up with plain water and run it up to temp and bleed it, let it cool down then pull the hose again and see what colour the water is, if its brown repeat the cycle, if its clean then put the hose back on on fill with coolant.
 
i would just pull the bottom hose off and let all the old coolant out, stick a hose in the rad bottle and flush it through till clear water came out, put the hose back on, fill with plain water, pull the hose again and look at the colour of the stuff coming out, repeat this a few times till your happy.
Then i would pop the hose back on and top it up with plain water and run it up to temp and bleed it, let it cool down then pull the hose again and see what colour the water is, if its brown repeat the cycle, if its clean then put the hose back on on fill with coolant.
Is it possible to do this without getting showered with antifreeze? Perhaps with vehicle on lift?
 
Well... isn't it exactly that situation, vehicle on lift, when you would actually get showered with antifreeze?!
More than just vehicle on the ground...
With vehicle on lift, you can dodge as the hose comes away, but with vehicle on ground, axle stands etc, much less room to move quickly.
 
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