Technical Central Locking Fuse block

[rawill]

I have been looking for the 4 place fuse block and the Central Locking Unit.

This is on my 84 Uno 70s. I have only just bought it. I think the central locking unit worked a few times when I got it, but not because I was trying to make it work. I would unlock it and go back and the door would be locked again!

So I am trying to trace where the power starts from to go the unit.

 

[jjhepburn]

It wont be a problem with the power supply to the motors. I have had this problem and its caused by rust on the lock mechanism inside the door. This causes the mechanism to be hard to move. The motor tries to unlock but fails, it then detects that the motor is half way so it goes back. Just spray some CRC on the mechanism inside the door and it should come right, or use lithium grease.

As for the fuses and controlers for the central locking and electric windows they should be on the bulkhead just in front of the drivers door (about where the other fuse box is, but on the other side of the car).

 

[rawill]

Or both, then, CRC and then the grease. Thanks, that makes sense.

 

[alexGS]

I agree with what James says. But also...

Often, the lock motors are just shot by now. The original Swiss-made type has an alloy gear operating a plastic rack. In my experience, a mismatch of materials is never a good idea. You would think that the 'metal' gear would last so much better than a plastic one; but it definitely wears out long before the plastic rack. All-plastic replacements may also be shot in 25 years' time, of course!

It gets to the point where the actuator can't be operated by hand - the worn teeth simply jam. Obviously that shouldn't be a problem when the motor is operating the lock, but eventually it skips teeth and doesn't work properly.

The motors are a standard size and shape. Individual motors are sometimes available from auto electricians at a modest price. The $30 4-dr kit from Dick Smith used to be the way to go - but it's been discontinued. The kits from Jaycar - $50-ish - and individually-available motors $15 each - are reasonable value but sadly the improved-design actuator has a swivel head, which makes it longer and not quite a drop-in replacement. It can be made to work - it always can - but the small link of the original installation will have to be replaced by a longer link hooked up to the push-button rod in the usual way (screw-clamp block...)

As the years go by, it might become harder to find 'conventional-style' lock motors (most cars of the last 10-20 years have a proprietary motor integrated with the latch), so next time I find a source of the standard type, I'm thinking of stocking up. Repco might be a good bet - I think SuperCheap has the same type as Jaycar (both Australian, so no surprises there). Yes I know Repco is Australian too, but they're kinda third-generation Kiwis

I do like central locking. I often wonder why our houses don't have central locking...

-Alex

 

[rawill]

Nearly all good:bang:

I have 3 locks working. There was a plug off on the LF door lock, when I put that back on, (after squirting CRC around the lock!) the rear doors locks operate as I operate the LF door lock.

But, when I operate the RF door lock nothing happens, the fuses are fine, the relay seems fine, I replaced it, made no difference so I put the old one back in.

I have 12v on the out side of each of the 2 plugs down by the CL control unit. But I can not find 12v on any lead out by the CL unit on the right front door. I assumed there should be 12v on one wire at the CL door unit all the time.

What is the little electrical unit by the door catch mechanism. I assume it is a unit to stop the CL working until the door is shut. I ask because in attempting to find the fault I applied 12v to that unit from a direct feed. I heard it click. I hope I didn't fry anything.

 

[rawill]

Aha - found it!! See my picture, a credibility gap in the wiring, now which ones do I join to which ones. :bang: It was right in the gap between the door and the body, in behind the protection covering that the wiring goes through. How did that happen

Trial and error here we come. Oh, and the multimeter is King. Like I said in the post last night, there was power at the plugs, but no power at the door. I probed a few times on the wire going in to where the wire goes into the body, then on the other side by the door. Power going in no power going out!!

 

[rawill]

All done, all working now, BUT, this has happened before. There were 3 wires all green that were cut, they had been spliced in there before.

I wonder what causes this, anyway they are now soldered and shrink wrapped. I hope they will be OK and fit back in the 'tube'.

I suspect the damage was caused by something to do with the electric window mechanism or the window falling off. Not sure.

 

[a73uk]

Usually damage at the hinge is from years of opening & closing the drivers door, but it usually breaks the wire inside the insulation, not all the way through, this looks more like a deliberate cut.

Could it have had the door removed by an idiot in its history? I see the hinge bolts have been removed before...

 

[rawill]

Usually damage at the hinge is from years of opening & closing the drivers door, but it usually breaks the wire inside the insulation, not all the way through, this looks more like a deliberate cut.

Could it have had the door removed by an idiot in its history? I see the hinge bolts have been removed before...

Yes it could have, I have only owned it a week.

 

[jjhepburn]

Probably deliberatly cut because they couldnt be bothered finding out why the central locking didnt work so they decided to "disable" it the best way they knew how

 

[rawill]

Probably deliberately cut because they couldnt be bothered finding out why the central locking didnt work so they decided to "disable" it the best way they knew how

Quite possible, there was nothing really wrong with it, locking units are perfect. I reckon the RR door has never had the door card off. All crced now, and waiting for some oil, and rust spray for the bottom of the doors, a little dent to be taken out of the RR door then the cards will go back on.

Thanks all for your interest.

Next is making my Uno 60s WOFable, and a clean under the bonnet so I can work on it without getting black! It fumes a bit so there is a rust preventative overall the bits under the bonnet, read oil mist!