Styling Car Painting for a novice - tips needed!!!

[rawill]

Hi Alex and others.

Thanks Alex for your tips on my other thread.

I bought a $99.00 toploading paint gun from Supercheap, and the pressure guage with water/oil trap.

I need some tips for my first job, the hatch on my Fiat Uno. It already has a spray can job, so now I am ready to try again with paint and top clear.

The paint gun has 3 settings, air, paint, and spray pattern.
I figure from what I read that I need to set the pressure at about 45psi.
Not sure about air, paint and spray pattern settings.

So if anyone can point me to a good video or written document that would be great.

Or maybe I should start with some enamel for a start, or even water based house paint.

What say all you guys/girls who have already done this.

/Rbn

And, can I put some clear over the spray can job I did a week ago, or do I have to spray some colour over it first, one person said the clear needs to go over within 4 hours of the colour coat.

 

[Louie Bee]

I'd say practice on something other than the Uno

Once it's setup right and your happy then point it at the Uno

 

[rawill]

Yes, that is the plan.

 

[a73uk]

Prep work is the key for a good finish!

You could practice on some of the burnt out Uno`s panels.

If you go to a car paint factors, they`ve usually got tins of random colours sitting around that have been mixed but not picked up, or, were slightly `off` colour-wise. They normally sell them off cheap.

Its impossible to recomend a set up for your kit as they all vary to a degree, so its best to experiment directly to get a good spray pattern & volume.

Just have a fiddle really!

Also, make sure you keep the gun immaculately clean, always blow it out with thinners/gun wash after use, then dismantle the jet & clean them individually after each use, as well as the paint cup inside & out (especially if you use enamel as it`ll react with other paints), have a new 2.5 ltr paint tin with thinners inside for this, changing the thinners when it starts to get too dirty. Theres usually a basic cleaning kit with brushes supplied with most guns.

Never store your painting equipment near anything silicone based, or spray any silicone based lubricants or cleaners (like bumper black) near the gun.

 

[rawill]

Thank you - never thought of the silicone question. In fact the paint gun is on my toolbox shelf with other lubricants etc right now. Will change that after lunch.

I also thought spraying thinner through the gun would be enough to clean it!

Many thanks.

And yes I am going to paint one of the burnt out Uno doors, or the hatch as an experiment, eventually they may end up on my daily driver.

 

[alexGS]

Great advice there
So sorry I didn't reply earlier...

Paint thinning is important for a fine, even spray. A metallic basecoat needs to be about 50% thinners, but the clearcoat will only be about 10%. I find that for the clearcoat, a stirring stick marked with the proportions of paint/thinner/hardener really helps. The paint should always be mixed in a plastic cup first, then poured into the gun. It's so tempting just to pour the paint straight into the gun, add thinners, and give it a shake - but you'll find the paint sinks to the bottom and won't spray.

Otherwise it's all about the prepwork, sanding with a succession of paper grades (ending in at least 400 wet, possibly 600). Taking out the rear windscreen would be the best idea (takes minutes) and a grey Scotchbrite pad is useful to de-gloss paint as an alternative to sanding. Painting over glossy paint is never going to work well in the long term - you can expect it to flake at some point.

A wipe-over with wax-and-grease remover is always a good idea once sanding is complete - it removes dust and residue, and it's a nuisance to clean off failed paint (craters/fish-eyes) after inadequate degreasing, to try again...

Clear over aerosol base paint might work - or, might not. All you can do is try...

As for the gun setting, you're aiming for a nice oval spray fan with smoothly-feathered edges, I'd expect about 10cm high. The upper knob usually adjusts fan size. The lower knob is usually just a stop for the trigger - screw this all the way in and then out just a turn or so to avoid the risk of too much paint/runs.

The third knob I'm guessing is next to the air inlet - this can just be left screwed all the way out, as you have set the regulator to an exact limit. Be sure that when you squeeze the trigger, the regulator gauge maintains at least 30psi, possibly up to 40psi for a smoother-edged spray pattern. It's common to get a bit of a dip when you pull the trigger, so adjust for this.

Then, have a play and see what you get

-Alex

 

[rawill]

Thanks again.

Had a play with enamel on a wooden highchair yesterday. Not very successful, lots of overspray on the seat bit. Hard to counteract I'm told.

But I had my settings wrong, got too much spray looking like minute spots, had about 38psi while spraying. Not sure if I need a different pattern and more paint.

Will sand it down again and wait for a nice dry day with no wind to try again.

Also got a clutch kit coming from Dino, much better than aftermarket, see my other thread.