Technical Campervan not starting, 2003 2.8jtd

Currently reading:
Technical Campervan not starting, 2003 2.8jtd

AAKERNES

Member
Joined
Jul 28, 2024
Messages
20
Points
52
Location
Bergen
Hi. I have some issues with my campervan. It is now only start with startgas. I have read the fault codes and will post it here. What do you think is the problem here? It runs ok after I have started it with startgas. But once it is off, it needs the same procedure.
 
Model
Ducato
Year
2003
Mileage
90000

Attachments

  • Screenshot_20240728_100953.jpg
    Screenshot_20240728_100953.jpg
    931.3 KB · Views: 170
Hi. I have some issues with my campervan. It is now only start with startgas. I have read the fault codes and will post it here. What do you think is the problem here? It runs ok after I have started it with startgas. But once it is off, it needs the same procedure.
Hi @AAKERNES ,

Welcome to the forum. I am sorry, I cannot read Norwegian. Perhaps you could translate the meanings of the fault codes?

One possibility is that there may be insufficient fuel rail pressure at cranking speed.
 
P1320 speed sensor, signal unintelligible

P0335 fuel temperatur sensor, signal to big

P0380 control glow time, signal unintelligible

U1600 immobilizer, No code reception

P0191 rail pressure surveillance, signal unintelligible

P020 sensor 2, gas pedal position, signal unintelligible

Anyone?
 
I have replaced the flame starter today, but it still dont start. But I also checked the volt supply there. Nothing out. And the reelay does not make any sound aswell..
 
I have replaced the flame starter today, but it still dont start. But I also checked the volt supply there. Nothing out. And the reelay does not make any sound aswell..
The flame starter is not used at ambient temperatures above 0 Centigreade.

The only common factor in the list of fault codes appears to be the ECU. Perhaps worth checking the ECU at lower front edge of LHS inner wing.

If you can confirm that your vehicle is an x244 model, I can post eLearn wiring diagrams for the engine. For model number see first three numbers of VIN, either ZFA230xxxxxxxxx, or ZFA244xxxxxxxxx.
 
The flame starter is not used at ambient temperatures above 0 Centigreade.

The only common factor in the list of fault codes appears to be the ECU. Perhaps worth checking the ECU at lower front edge of LHS inner wing.

If you can confirm that your vehicle is an x244 model, I can post eLearn wiring diagrams for the engine. For model number see first three numbers of VIN, either ZFA230xxxxxxxxx, or ZFA244xxxxxxxxx.
IT is ZFA244000********* New items: Fuelrail pressure sensor, flamestarter, dieselpump(in the tank), all positive and negative main wires. It is almost starting about every fourth time ish..
 
IT is ZFA244000********* New items: Fuelrail pressure sensor, flamestarter, dieselpump(in the tank), all positive and negative main wires. It is almost starting about every fourth time ish..
Hi,
If you have deleted the fault codes, and they reoccur, I suggest a second look at the main chassis earth, below the front of the battery, close to the RHS engine mounting. Corrosion can occur inside the flag terminal at the connection to the chassis.

Thinking of other possible causes, a faulty or badly adjusted camshaft sensor can cause starting problems, as the ECU does not know which stroke the engine is on. Once started control is only via the crankshaft sensor, but if that is faulty the engine will not start in the normal manner.

When you use "start gas", does the engine continue to run?

As promised I am attaching copies of the Fiat eLearn wiring diagrams. I have assumed that your engine does not have EGR, and has a metal bodied fuel filter.
 

Attachments

  • eLearn E5050-1a Engine Management Canister Filter.pdf
    125.8 KB · Views: 80
  • eLearn E5050-2b Engine Management without EGR.pdf
    998.6 KB · Views: 80
  • Fiat Wiring Colour Codes.pdf
    70.1 KB · Views: 83
Hi,
If you have deleted the fault codes, and they reoccur, I suggest a second look at the main chassis earth, below the front of the battery, close to the RHS engine mounting. Corrosion can occur inside the flag terminal at the connection to the chassis.

Thinking of other possible causes, a faulty or badly adjusted camshaft sensor can cause starting problems, as the ECU does not know which stroke the engine is on. Once started control is only via the crankshaft sensor, but if that is faulty the engine will not start in the normal manner.

When you use "start gas", does the engine continue to run?

As promised I am attaching copies of the Fiat eLearn wiring diagrams. I have assumed that your engine does not have EGR, and has a metal bodied fuel filter.
The earht is ok. Once it start it runs perfectly fine. But if you stop and try to start at once its no hope
 
The earht is ok. Once it start it runs perfectly fine. But if you stop and try to start at once its no hope
That is what I would expect if the camshaft sensor was faulty, but it could also be a key code problem. Does the padlock symbol illuminate only briefly when ignition is switched on? You did list a key code error.
 
That is what I would expect if the camshaft sensor was faulty, but it could also be a key code problem. Does the padlock symbol illuminate only briefly when ignition is switched on? You did list a key code error.
Yes a few seconds before it dissapear. I only have one key. I Will take a New test for fault codes in a few days. In some other post People talking about the immobilizer.. That was a common fail?
 
Yes a few seconds before it dissapear. I only have one key. I Will take a New test for fault codes in a few days. In some other post People talking about the immobilizer.. That was a common fail?
The immobiliser light must be out, before the engine will start. With the light ON, the engine will crank, but not start. I have had a small problem with mine. It is worrying when it happens, and you lose confidence in the vehicle.
 
The immobiliser light must be out, before the engine will start. With the light ON, the engine will crank, but not start. I have had a small problem with mine. It is worrying when it happens, and you lose confidence in the vehicle.
 

Attachments

  • VID_20240813_204215.mp4
    43.2 MB
Was the cranking in last post with easy start or not as doesn't sound like all cylinders trying to fire?
Is there any previous history of work on engine or issues?
Any air leaks in fuel system?
 
Other thought, does your diagnostic tool show live data on fuel pressure at common rail when cranking, if borderline pressure you may need to do a "leak off" test to see if one injector is loosing pressure so borderline when cranking, but once easy start spray used it is just enough to get it going.
 
Was the cranking in last post with easy start or not as doesn't sound like all cylinders trying to fire?
Is there any previous history of work on engine or issues?
Any air leaks in fuel system?
Not easy start at that post. It starts fine with easy start and run fine aswell. As long as I don't stop it can run all Day long. I can't find any leaks anywhere
 
Not easy start at that post. It starts fine with easy start and run fine aswell. As long as I don't stop it can run all Day long. I can't find any leaks anywhere
See if you can get a reading of Common Rail fuel pressure when cranking.
If low it may be a reason for it not quite starting until easy start spray used.
If it was cold weather and not quite starting, it would be often accompanied with white smoke that smelt of diesel indicating heater plug type issues.

However I suspect this is not the case and possibly no smoke from exhaust when trying to start or very little, which may indicate little, or no fuel coming from the injectors until easy start spray used causing engine cranking speed and fuel pressure to raise and forcing engine to start?
 
See if you can get a reading of Common Rail fuel pressure when cranking.
If low it may be a reason for it not quite starting until easy start spray used.
If it was cold weather and not quite starting, it would be often accompanied with white smoke that smelt of diesel indicating heater plug type issues.

However I suspect this is not the case and possibly no smoke from exhaust when trying to start or very little, which may indicate little, or no fuel coming from the injectors until easy start spray used causing engine cranking speed and fuel pressure to raise and forcing engine to start?
Fuel pressure was ok at the diagnostic. Very little smoke when I try to start it. All injectors are new. I have spent a lot of money on parts that not helping me 🥴
 
Fuel pressure was ok at the diagnostic. Very little smoke when I try to start it. All injectors are new. I have spent a lot of money on parts that not helping me 🥴
It would be nice to see a graph of the fuel rail pressure on cold cranking and first start up and rev, hopefully in Bar readings against engine revs.
Many expect to see around 300 Bar pressure on cranking, but in my experience many common rail diesels will start and run happily from 230 Bar and idle with 260 Bar and around 7-800 Bar at 3000Rpm with no ill effects on older higher mileage engines.
My thoughts were if the readings are lower then maybe a weak injector is causing the problem, so a "leak off" test which only involves measuring the fuel leaking off from the return pipes on each individual injector with the volume and time measured will give an indication without any expensive parts to test it.
There are many cheap sets available to measure "leak off", but I have done it using a set of identical clear plastic containers of a certain known volume and some screen wash tubing.
What often is the case is one injector is faulty and the level in that container raises to a higher level than the rest, indicating possibly just one injector that needs repair or replacement.
It is even possible to buy a set of blanking test unions to block off an individual injector to confirm pressure improvement when bypassing that cylinder.
Obviously the engine will be missing/not firing on that cylinder whilst test is completed.;)
 
Back
Top