Technical brake pads worn, any help please

[sands030905]

Hi, just had brake pads worn message,

How long do I have before having to change pads?

Also thinking that I will do discs and pads all around front and rear,

Do i need any particular tools for this job?

Many thanks

 

[dirtyhands]

maybe days pads never wear the same,it wont matter if your changing both discs and pads but if you hear grating be extra careful that pad does not drop out due to worn discs and loss of brakes,depending what holds pads on caliper and the carrier on hub as it might be a spanner,allen key or torx ,clamp for flexy brake pipe to stop you forcing old brake fluid back through master cylinder,spanner for opening bleed nipple on caliper and to ease piston going back,rubber pipe to guide fluid away while you push back piston and new brake fluid.

jack and stands also for safety.
also forgot to add some discs are coated in a protective coating that may need to be cleaned off prior to fitting.

quick guide on another car just to guide you.

 

[avionista]

You may need a tool to rewind the pistons into the rear calipers as these need to be rotated as well as pressed back in. This is the sort of thing:

http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/BRAKE-CALIPER-PISTON-REWIND-WIND-BACK-TOOL-KIT-22-PCS-/180940414241?pt=UK_Hand_Tools_Equipment&hash=item2a20e39d21

 

[Pat H]

My rear pads lasted 70 miels (or even more) and the rear discs are still original now at 110K miles.
The front pads last aroud 30K miles (so had about 4 sets now) last set I also changed the front discs.
For the rear pads I manged by making a temp tool to wind in and out and I could have just use mole grips.

 

[sands030905]

Thanks for the replies,
I have changed the fronts, quite simple really, bit stiff, broke 2 ratchet handles, but bought torque wrench, no problem.

Today I attempted the rear, not so straight forward.
Got caliper off, pads out carrier off, again bit stiff.
Big trouble removing disc, the bolt rounded off within 10 seconds of attempting to loosen.

Where can I get a new one, what is the proper name for this bolt so I can search for one.

Is also found that it is a bit tricky to rewind the piston without a proper tool

I saw the kit listed previously, and wanted to check that if I buy the kit, the correct adaptor will be included with it.

http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/BRAKE-PIS...nd_Tools_Equipment&hash=item3a743806b4&_uhb=1

Thanks for any help.

 

[avionista]

The kit you have posted a link to will work on most cars. You will only need a few of the components within this kit to work on an Ulysse. It caters for calipers which require the piston to be rotated anti-clockwise to wind them in as well as the normal clockwise types. This kit should work with any car you are likely to have in the future.

 

[sands030905]

hi, tried today without kit and used needle nose pliers.

drivers side rear went back really easy,

that was after i spent an hour with the passenger side rear.

i moved the piston back so far, but there is still an inch to move.
it wont move back anymore what so ever, i removed the reservoir cap before doing this, and fluid came out the top whilst rewinding them.

is this normal??

as it doesn't move back anymore, does that imply that it is broken and i need to replace it. or is there something else i can do.and if i need to replace, can i replace with a used unit?

 

[redalbin]

The kit you have posted a link to will work on most cars. You will only need a few of the components within this kit to work on an Ulysse. It caters for calipers which require the piston to be rotated anti-clockwise to wind them in as well as the normal clockwise types. This kit should work with any car you are likely to have in the future.

Hi Avionista,

I have bought a '98 Ulysse with at least one stuck disc brake piston (NSF).

Can you advise?

I proposed to simply lubricate and push it back in the caliper bore.

Will I need the kit you have been describing.

This is urgent, since the disc is cooking.

 

[redalbin]

The kit you have posted a link to will work on most cars. You will only need a few of the components within this kit to work on an Ulysse. It caters for calipers which require the piston to be rotated anti-clockwise to wind them in as well as the normal clockwise types. This kit should work with any car you are likely to have in the future.

Hi Avionista,

I have bought a '98 Ulysse with at least one stuck disc brake piston (NSF).

Can you advise?

I proposed to simply lubricate and push it back in the caliper bore.

Will I need the kit you have been describing.

This is urgent, since the disc is cooking.

 

[avionista]

If the piston in the front calliper is stuck, it has probably got some corrosion on it and the piston will need to be removed from the calliper and cleaned up. This is best done with the calliper off the car. Also, if the calliper seal is leaking it will need to be replaced.

Once the piston and calliper cylinder have been cleaned up, fit the piston without its seal first to ensure it moves freely in the calliper without sticking. Then fit the seal and put the piston right into the calliper as far as it will go. All that remains is to refit the calliper to the car, reconnect the flexible hose, etc., and bleed the brakes. If you clamp the flexible hose, before disconnecting it from the calliper, you should only need to bleed the affected calliper.

 

[redalbin]

Hi Avionista,

Thanks for the advice.

Had caliper off the hub and all assets seemed to be stuck to each other.

Not to distract, but initial checks had indicated that NS disc/rotor turned freely.

But vehicle pulled LH continuously.

With wheels off and engine running in gear, discs heated up quickly, however and with a noticable differential.

LHS track rod end worn too.

There seemed only slight scuffing/feathering of O'side front tyre edges: I wondered whether this was part of the problem, a symptom, or characteristic of a reasonably heavy vehicle and a lot of front axle weight?

No sign of accident damage to account for poor tracking. Could not see how tracking would be adjusted, either(!) since no scope seen for lateral (or other) movement.

However, just mobilisation and a clean up of the brake parts on LH axle has improved tracking/steering wheel centring(!) and reduced the rotor/disc heating differential.

The cable link insulation to the pad wear detector was very degraded on one pad and that parted. I assume that to be an MOT failure issue, thereby necessitating new pads.

An American product called Permatex (not widely available in UK) got good reviews as a universally compatible lubricant for all brake parts, but there is controversy about other options being universally applicable. Any wise words welcome, as before.