Brake Pad Change
What you will need:
Jack
Axle Stand(s)
17mm socket + breaker bar (Or air gun if possible)
13mm spanner (ratcheting type prefered) or 13mm socket and ratchet
T30 socket and ratchet (I think it was T30 anyway)
EITHER 13MM SINGLE HEX socket or E14
Plain headed Screwdriver (about 200mm long)
hammer (2lb if possible)
anti-seize compound (copper grease)
New brake discs and pads
How To:
First off, Crack off the wheel bolts with the 17mm socket and breaker bar. Jack up hub at the correct jacking point and then secure with axle stand.
Remove the wheel bolts and remove the wheel from the hub. If the wheel doesn't come free from the hub, get a piece of wood and place against wheel. Hit the wood with the hammer a few times to remove the wheel.
Once wheel is off, place the wheel out of the way and place the wheel bolts to the side but do not loose.
Turn the steering so that the caliper is now facing outwards. Using the screwdriver, put the blade between the outer pad and the disc, Or the vented part of the disc if pads are excessively worn. Pull the screwdriver towards yourself taking care that it doesn't slip. This should push the caliper piston back. Ensure that the piston sits near flush with the caliper body.
Remove the 2 13mm head bolts at the top and bottom of the caliper body. Please be careful as these will be tight. Also, unplug the pad sensor plug. Place the bolts safe
Take the old pads out.
Find the 2 E-torx bolts (They have the head of a torx bit) and remove them with an E14 socket (If unavailable, a single hex 13mm will fit). This should, if you have taken the right bolts out, allow the pad carrier to be taken off. Again, these will be tight and make sure that you put the bolts safe.
The disc is held on with 2 bolts sitting either side of the center bore. Remove these and the disc should just pull off, if not, you will need to use the hammer to persuade the disc to come off.
Once the disc is off, grease the hub and fit the new disc. Grease and the 2 bolts you took out and fit where they come from. Ensure that they are tight (not excessive as wheel bolts will prevent any play when tightened).
Clean and grease the pad slides, grease carrier bolts and fit. Ensure that they are tight! I cannot expressive the importantness enough to ensure those bolts being tight!
Fit the new pads into the carrier.
Put the caliper back into place and align the caliper securing bolts.
Grease the caliper bolts and fit, ensure that these are tight. Plug in pad sensor cable.
Grease the wheel mounting surface, and fit the wheel.
Put the wheel bolts in and tighten to finger tight.
Put vehicle back down on the ground.
TIGHTEN WHEEL BOLTS TO 100-120NM (Newton Meters). (Or F***ing Tight (AKA FT) ). PLEASE, PLEASE Make sure these are tight!
What you will need:
Jack
Axle Stand(s)
17mm socket + breaker bar (Or air gun if possible)
13mm spanner (ratcheting type prefered) or 13mm socket and ratchet
T30 socket and ratchet (I think it was T30 anyway)
EITHER 13MM SINGLE HEX socket or E14
Plain headed Screwdriver (about 200mm long)
hammer (2lb if possible)
anti-seize compound (copper grease)
New brake discs and pads
How To:
First off, Crack off the wheel bolts with the 17mm socket and breaker bar. Jack up hub at the correct jacking point and then secure with axle stand.
Remove the wheel bolts and remove the wheel from the hub. If the wheel doesn't come free from the hub, get a piece of wood and place against wheel. Hit the wood with the hammer a few times to remove the wheel.
Once wheel is off, place the wheel out of the way and place the wheel bolts to the side but do not loose.
Turn the steering so that the caliper is now facing outwards. Using the screwdriver, put the blade between the outer pad and the disc, Or the vented part of the disc if pads are excessively worn. Pull the screwdriver towards yourself taking care that it doesn't slip. This should push the caliper piston back. Ensure that the piston sits near flush with the caliper body.
Remove the 2 13mm head bolts at the top and bottom of the caliper body. Please be careful as these will be tight. Also, unplug the pad sensor plug. Place the bolts safe
Take the old pads out.
Find the 2 E-torx bolts (They have the head of a torx bit) and remove them with an E14 socket (If unavailable, a single hex 13mm will fit). This should, if you have taken the right bolts out, allow the pad carrier to be taken off. Again, these will be tight and make sure that you put the bolts safe.
The disc is held on with 2 bolts sitting either side of the center bore. Remove these and the disc should just pull off, if not, you will need to use the hammer to persuade the disc to come off.
Once the disc is off, grease the hub and fit the new disc. Grease and the 2 bolts you took out and fit where they come from. Ensure that they are tight (not excessive as wheel bolts will prevent any play when tightened).
Clean and grease the pad slides, grease carrier bolts and fit. Ensure that they are tight! I cannot expressive the importantness enough to ensure those bolts being tight!
Fit the new pads into the carrier.
Put the caliper back into place and align the caliper securing bolts.
Grease the caliper bolts and fit, ensure that these are tight. Plug in pad sensor cable.
Grease the wheel mounting surface, and fit the wheel.
Put the wheel bolts in and tighten to finger tight.
Put vehicle back down on the ground.
TIGHTEN WHEEL BOLTS TO 100-120NM (Newton Meters). (Or F***ing Tight (AKA FT) ). PLEASE, PLEASE Make sure these are tight!