Styling boot lid -> smooth

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Styling boot lid -> smooth

charlieboy

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bored so am going to smooth of a spare boot lid, debadge and delock it. what the best way to tackle the holes? FG and then filler, or straight on filler?

p.s similar to what druel1 's boot lid looks like

charlie
 
I've found it an extremely frustrating mechanism :)

I've spent HOURS trying to adjust the cable tension and lubricate the cable so that it releases consistently and doesn't prevent the tailgate from shutting properly. But the combination of vague plastic lever and high-friction metal-on-metal cable makes it interesting. The Mk2 is different to the Mk1, in case anyone's wondering. Also, the cable often breaks off at the lever.

One long trip in my Turbo, I drove through some roadworks on the main state highway north, and there was suddenly an increase in road noise - I looked in the mirror to see a full view of the car behind... yep, popped open again!

Recently I sold a 45 to which I had fitted the remote release. The new owner had disconnected it within a week... apparently it started jamming.

I still like the idea of de-locking the tailgate, but how about using a solenoid to open it? Where I work, we sell a hefty solenoid with cable attached - that should do the trick and you could have it connected to the second channel on an alarm remote...

-Alex
 
1986Uno45S said:
A 45S is not a base model :p

Plain old 45/ 55/ 60 with no 's', with one speed interior fan, one speed wipers (plus intermittent), no clock, no cigarette lighter etc. is a base model.

My 45S has a remote boot release too :D

Even my brother's panda 750 has a 3 speed fan! No boot release mind...
 
back to the smoothing quickly,i asked a paintwork specalist bout smoothing a boot and yea he sed that best to get a plate welded! i was also told i wood need a bit of metal that follows the curve of the boot or it wont look rite!! anyone know where i can get something that will look curve in the rite way?? was told maybe a bonnet or a section of the roof but where can i get jus a bit of metal? i didnt think a scrappy wood wana jus cut part outa a roof wood they?
 
Generally, whoever is doing the welding should have some panel steel left over, and a little hammerwork will get it the right shape. The curves on an Uno (what curves?) are generally a lot less than on many 90's cars - most surfaces are almost flat.

A scrapyard should be happy enough to cut a piece out of a roof, but then again I don't know of any wooden-roof cars ;)

I think the fibreglass option is sufficient, but I guess it depends on which holes you are trying to fill in - if you want to eliminate the handle completely, for instance, then I suppose you will need extra metal.

-Alex
 
Theres a very slight horizontal fold 1/2 way down the number plate, its easily put in to a flat sheet.

You can then cut out the original plate indentation (so its no heavier than original).
 

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