doblo
Member
Glad your problems sorted out now, I don't now if you would have put your heater to maximum with the blower on whether that would of kept the engine cooler a bit longer. PS I am now FC united for the same reason as MUFC.
Technical Being overtaken by all sorts in JTD 1.9
- Thread starter jabss
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Technical Being overtaken by all sorts in JTD 1.9
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i had same problem it turned out to be just apipe off the air intake pipe.Hard to see put check before you do anything else.Another possibilty is clogged fuel filter.
Hi, I thought I should add my experience of a similar problem with my 2004 Doblo JTD.
Symptoms were little power below 2500 RPM with a rush of power after this. There was a tendency to stall with rather uneven running. There was no smoke that I could see in the rear view mirror.
Having read all the Fiat forum posts I disconnected the air flow meter and the car ran much better, pulling from low speed without any problems. This seemed to me like pretty conclusive proof that the air flow meter was at fault, so I changed it... only to find that the new one made no difference.
I decided at this point to check the EGR valve and found this to be chocked with carbon. Blanking off the EGR had the car running perfectly on both the new and old MAF units.
Close inspection of the EGR showed that the solenoid had jammed and was holding the valve open by just a few millimeters. I found the solenoid was really stuck solid. Nothing would free it up and there was not enough of the plunger protruding to get an effective grip on it. Eventually i dismantled the solenoid valve further and used a drill chuck to grip the plunger and pull it out after a 2 day soaking in carb cleaner. The plunger was quite pitted but polished up OK. All was put back in place and the car is now running fine.
So on the basis of my experience, take the time to check the EGR valve by blanking it before assuming that the MAF is at fault, even if the car does run well with the MAF disconnected.
As a point of interest I felt the EGR inlet pipe to see how hot it was getting throughout this little saga. Before I removed the EGR the valve was getting hand warm pretty quickly at idle and I assumed this to be heat conduction. After fixing the EGR it was not getting warm at all for at least 5 minutes and then only slightly. When I blanked the EGR I did so at the EGR connection to the inlet pipe. In this condition the pipe was still cold after a 10 mile drive so I think that not much heat is conducted through to this pipe. If its getting warm it's due to the passage of exhaust gasses.
If anyone else has the same problem and wants to know how to fully dismantle the EGR solenoid, let me know and I can post some information.
Hope this all saves someone else some time and money. I've now got a spare MAF for when the original does pack up!
Symptoms were little power below 2500 RPM with a rush of power after this. There was a tendency to stall with rather uneven running. There was no smoke that I could see in the rear view mirror.
Having read all the Fiat forum posts I disconnected the air flow meter and the car ran much better, pulling from low speed without any problems. This seemed to me like pretty conclusive proof that the air flow meter was at fault, so I changed it... only to find that the new one made no difference.
I decided at this point to check the EGR valve and found this to be chocked with carbon. Blanking off the EGR had the car running perfectly on both the new and old MAF units.
Close inspection of the EGR showed that the solenoid had jammed and was holding the valve open by just a few millimeters. I found the solenoid was really stuck solid. Nothing would free it up and there was not enough of the plunger protruding to get an effective grip on it. Eventually i dismantled the solenoid valve further and used a drill chuck to grip the plunger and pull it out after a 2 day soaking in carb cleaner. The plunger was quite pitted but polished up OK. All was put back in place and the car is now running fine.
So on the basis of my experience, take the time to check the EGR valve by blanking it before assuming that the MAF is at fault, even if the car does run well with the MAF disconnected.
As a point of interest I felt the EGR inlet pipe to see how hot it was getting throughout this little saga. Before I removed the EGR the valve was getting hand warm pretty quickly at idle and I assumed this to be heat conduction. After fixing the EGR it was not getting warm at all for at least 5 minutes and then only slightly. When I blanked the EGR I did so at the EGR connection to the inlet pipe. In this condition the pipe was still cold after a 10 mile drive so I think that not much heat is conducted through to this pipe. If its getting warm it's due to the passage of exhaust gasses.
If anyone else has the same problem and wants to know how to fully dismantle the EGR solenoid, let me know and I can post some information.
Hope this all saves someone else some time and money. I've now got a spare MAF for when the original does pack up!
Your very correct,often the air flow meter is mistakenly fitted when the fault is the EGR valve.People often dismiss the egr as faulty because there is no 'black smoke' which is not always the case.
There is a Fiat service news available to dealers which details a series of precise tests to identify quickly if the air flow meter or egr valve is a fault however this does require the use of examiner.
There is a Fiat service news available to dealers which details a series of precise tests to identify quickly if the air flow meter or egr valve is a fault however this does require the use of examiner.
Niall_G
Established member
Old Bo said:
Old Bo,
Respec!!!!!:worship: :worship:
Niall
Cheers Old Bo and welcome to the forum! 
ZaphodBeeble
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Hi guys, i'm new.
I've been having the same problem as you guys here. Van won't rev above 3000rpm, i have to change gear early just to be able to pick up speed. It seems to pull ok below 2000rpm like normal but anything above that is just pants up until it doesn't accelerate any more at 3000rpm. I have unplugged the air flow meter and it makes a bit of difference. Sometimes the van will seem a lot better and will rev to 4000rpm but still lacks normal power. Then, other times, it will not rev at all and will splutter and miss when i apply the throttle (but it idles perfectly).
So, I can only run the van without the air flow meter connected to get any kind of performance. It also seems like pot luck every time I start it whether or not i get an engine with some power. I tried shutting the van off while rolling and starting it again, I do that once and i cant rev over 2500rpm, then 2 more times until the van will rev up to 4000rpm again. It's really odd.
I tried an air flow meter off a Doblo that works but it makes no difference. I also tried the blanking plate in the egr (which seems clean and functioning apart from some soot i cleaned out) but it hasnt made the slightest difference.
While i'm driving along in 1st gear I can hear the turbo spinning up like normal when i apply throttle. The turbo is only a month old. I have compared the connections on the turbo (all the pipes, basically) with another van and they seem fine. I've checked all the electrical connectors and they seem fine.
Could it be a fault with a sensor somewhere? What sensors are wired into the ecu? RPM sensor is an obvious one I suppose but I don't know what else to check.
Any ideas guys?
ZB
I've been having the same problem as you guys here. Van won't rev above 3000rpm, i have to change gear early just to be able to pick up speed. It seems to pull ok below 2000rpm like normal but anything above that is just pants up until it doesn't accelerate any more at 3000rpm. I have unplugged the air flow meter and it makes a bit of difference. Sometimes the van will seem a lot better and will rev to 4000rpm but still lacks normal power. Then, other times, it will not rev at all and will splutter and miss when i apply the throttle (but it idles perfectly).
So, I can only run the van without the air flow meter connected to get any kind of performance. It also seems like pot luck every time I start it whether or not i get an engine with some power. I tried shutting the van off while rolling and starting it again, I do that once and i cant rev over 2500rpm, then 2 more times until the van will rev up to 4000rpm again. It's really odd.
I tried an air flow meter off a Doblo that works but it makes no difference. I also tried the blanking plate in the egr (which seems clean and functioning apart from some soot i cleaned out) but it hasnt made the slightest difference.
While i'm driving along in 1st gear I can hear the turbo spinning up like normal when i apply throttle. The turbo is only a month old. I have compared the connections on the turbo (all the pipes, basically) with another van and they seem fine. I've checked all the electrical connectors and they seem fine.
Could it be a fault with a sensor somewhere? What sensors are wired into the ecu? RPM sensor is an obvious one I suppose but I don't know what else to check.
Any ideas guys?
ZB
Where/how did you blank of the EGR valve?
ZaphodBeeble
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T14086 said:
I cut up a chunk of Roses tin to the shape of the metal gasket that sits between the ribbed metal pipe and the inlet manifold (the bit where it's awkward to undo the allen bolts because of the fuel filter). It appeared to make as good a seal as the original piece of metal.
Just wondering if rather than removing and cleaning the EGR, could I just add a good strong dose of some type of cleaner to the diesel? If some which cleaner do you recommend?
If I do have to remove and clean the the EGR, is it just unbolt on & off or do I need new gasgets?
If I do have to remove and clean the the EGR, is it just unbolt on & off or do I need new gasgets?
baldscutter
New member
I have a 2002 Ulysse 2.0 JTD auto (Peugeot HDi engine though I think). Sounds to be running very similar to yours. Always starts and idles fine but maybe 50% power from cold and now only the same sometimes when warm. Awful economy aswell - I know it's a big auto but 17mpg is rubbish. I can only guess at turbo, EGR valve, (a local garage plugged it in and said there was no EGR fault) or MAF sensor. The car was bought to replace a Y reg petrol Ulysse that only did 18mpg!
