Technical Battery Draining / GP Not Starting

[SJB1985]

Afternoon All,

As some members are already away I have been having a problem with my car starting after it being left for more than 24 hours.

I have checked all of the earths apart from one.

I have removed all aftermarket products but this does not help the issue.

I had came to the conclusion that it must be my alternator and therefore as Reuuk and Andy Monty know I started searching for one I have found a Bosch replacement alternator for £200.00.

This morning I decided to use my new RAC Smart Charger I removed the battery and then placed it on charge following the instructions just to make sure I was doing everything correct. All was well so I thought so I then went to make a cuppa and from making a cuppa and walking back past the charger the "fully charged" icon was lit. I thought it may have been a misreading and therefore turned it of for 5 minutes and tried again. The same thing happed after 6/7 minutes the "fully charged" icon lit up.

I am assuming the charger is not broke with it being bought brand new etc.

If this is the case and the battery was 90 - 95% charged then would this give reason to rule out the alternator?

I then took the battery and placed it back in the car and connected everything up. I gave the car a few minutes to adjust itself and then tried to start the car. The car did not burst into life as I was expecting I just got a lot of clicks and a lot of flickers from the clocks.

I then disconnected the battery again and this time I cleaned all of the battery terminals with emery paper/pads. Connected the batter again and tried again to start to but nothing just the same as before clicking and flicking from the clocks.

I then got my jump leads and jumped the car with my mums and it burst into life after only having had the connectors on for 20 seconds.

Can anyone think of anything else I may have missed?

Could this still be an alternator problem or is it more electrical gremlins?

Any help on this would be great as I would like to avoid paying out £000's if I can help it.

Kind regards

Stephen

 

[a1ant]

Hi mate,

Sounds like a simple duff battery to me. Obviously there is some history to this fault which I'm not aware of, but if it's starting fine when jump started then it certainly looks like the battery.

Often you can still charge a battery to "full" on a standard charger as many determine the batteries charge based on voltage, however it is the cranking amps that are important, and as a battery gets old and weak this is what will decrease.

Has the battery been drop/load tested? This will show a weak battery straight away.

Alan

 

[SJB1985]

Hi mate,

Sounds like a simple duff battery to me. Obviously there is some history to this fault which I'm not aware of, but if it's starting fine when jump started then it certainly looks like the battery.

Often you can still charge a battery to "full" on a standard charger as many determine the batteries charge based on voltage, however it is the cranking amps that are important, and as a battery gets old and weak this is what will decrease.

Has the battery been drop/load tested? This will show a weak battery straight away.

Alan

Hi Alan, thanks for your reply I did have an independent garage test the battery and alternator for me about a month ago and they said that all was fine and the alternator was doing its job and the battery only being iirc about 7 to 8 months ago.

I have tried to call the garage today but they are not open until Monday this is who purchased and installed my new battery back in March/April 2013 when I changed over the battery for my own peace of mind after having upgraded all the speakers and having other aftermarket electronics installed in the car.

The battery that is currently in the car is a Bosch S4 one this replaced the original battery the car came with.

 

[Ryaaan]

have you tried taking the fuse box off and drying it out as mine got water in and would not start?

 

[SJB1985]

have you tried taking the fuse box off and drying it out as mine got water in and would not start?

I have removed the fuse box lid and it is all dry mate if there was any sign of water I would remove it

 

[Ryaaan]

mine looked dry but when the gyy took it off all the pins at the bottome were wet and starting to corrode

 

[SJB1985]

mine looked dry but when the gyy took it off all the pins at the bottome were wet and starting to corrode

Hmm worth taking off then and checking I will look for a guide and try at the weekend. Thanks mate

 

[Ryaaan]

no worries. just worth checking

 

[Most Easterly Pandas]

Hi Alan, thanks for your reply I did have an independent garage test the battery

How did they test is and what did they test? Just voltage or did they do a drop test?

 

[SJB1985]

How did they test is and what did they test? Just voltage or did they do a drop test?

I believe it was just a voltage test mate with a multimeter on both alternator and battery. I did attempt to contact the garage today to see if they would drop test the battery for me but they are not open until Monday. Is a battery drop test a free service?

The car had been sitting from 2:00pm until 5:00pm I know it is only three hours but it started first time with no trouble whatsoever?

Regards
Stephen

 

[stepheno]

You need a proper battery test with a dedicated tester really. Does sound like a duff battery though. You could use a simple multimeter to check the batt tho, anything less than 12.4v isn't good. Could be a duff cell??

 

[SJB1985]

Yeh I know, well I have managed to get the car booked in for Saturday morning to have the battery drop tested with HiQ free of charge.

 

[stepheno]

Modern battery testing doesn't warrant drop testing, I've heard horror stories of the ecu's being spiked. Is there no local motor factors to you?

We do battery testing where I work with a hand held digital tester, shows battery voltage..cold cranking amps and tests alternator voltage

 

[Andy Monty]

how does a drop test spike the ecu? you have more chance spiking an ecu jump starting. imo


its just a resistive 100a load same sort of effect as leaving your lights or heated rear screen on for 10 seconds if your worried just remove the battery terminals before testing

this is the sort of tester i have

http://www.ccw-tools.com/product.asp?P_ID=1506


Granted the latest electronic testers can glean more information but for a quick verification as to the state of a basic Lead acid battery they are cost effective to buy and dump in the garage and use every few years as and when needed....

when all most people want to know is the battery goosed or not.....

 

[Andy Monty]

@sjb1985 this morning

 

[Most Easterly Pandas]

Modern battery testing doesn't warrant drop testing, I've heard horror stories of the ecu's being spiked.

That wouldn't be through drop testing, is no worse that powering up the starter motor.

 

[SJB1985]

Basil thrashes his car - Fawlty Towers - BBC - YouTube

@sjb1985 this morning

Yip this was me this morning thanks to Andy Monty for being there with the cameras LOL

 

[SJB1985]

Currently sat in HiQ having battery and alternator checked. Car did start this morning

 

[SJB1985]

Ok so after 45 mins at HiQ and after lots of tests the battery is the issue it is not holding charge with an idle out of just 9.4. Alternator is charging and working well.

So guys what battery should I get?

 

[a1ant]

Hi mate,

My advice re batteries is shop around (obviously depending on how desperate you are).

You can get some brilliant deals online and at auto factors (avoid places like halfords unless you have a trade card). Have a look on websites like Euro car parts and GSF to see if they have any deals on batteries at the moment.

I normally use Bosch s4 or s5 where I can.

As for exact spec of battery, that will depend on engine/ model obviously.

Alan