General Axel Gerstl

[ciccio500]

Hi all,

I hope everyone is doing well.

It's been a long time since I've posted here as the little 500 sadly hasn't seen much action in recent years. She's currently with a classic car specialist and I've been handed a parts list to obtain. The last few bits I bought were from Axel Girstl in 2017. So I guess my question is, since now the UK is no longer in the EU what changes am I to expect ordering from Axel Girstl since my last purchase?

Thanks in anticipation.

Fran.

 

[the hobbler]

Hi all,

I hope everyone is doing well.

It's been a long time since I've posted here as the little 500 sadly hasn't seen much action in recent years. She's currently with a classic car specialist and I've been handed a parts list to obtain. The last few bits I bought were from Axel Girstl in 2017. So I guess my question is, since now the UK is no longer in the EU what changes am I to expect ordering from Axel Girstl since my last purchase?

Thanks in anticipation.

Fran.

I have just ordered from Axel Gerstl----their prices are as good as anybodies and their carriage charges are not exorbidant. However, being that you are in the UK, why not give Mark Jayes at MOTOBAMBINO a ring. His prices are as good as the EU companies, his carriage charges are a lot less, there is no hassle with the customs if your order exceeds a certain amount (and it can be an expensive hassle--take my word for it!) and his service is first class. I do a lot of business with Mark; if you think that it may help, use my name (Tom Montagu) as an introduction

 

[ciccio500]

I have just ordered from Axel Gerstl----their prices are as good as anybodies and their carriage charges are not exorbidant. However, being that you are in the UK, why not give Mark Jayes at MOTOBAMBINO a ring. His prices are as good as the EU companies, his carriage charges are a lot less, there is no hassle with the customs if your order exceeds a certain amount (and it can be an expensive hassle--take my word for it!) and his service is first class. I do a lot of business with Mark; if you think that it may help, use my name (Tom Montagu) as an introduction

Thanks Tom,

These were my thoughts exactly, I've actually got a replica basket open on Motobambino, I was just waiting for someone with experience to reply before making the decision. I've also got to get a starter motor, so I figured sending the old one back would be easier being in the UK. Funny thing is, I was around the corner from Motobambino last weekend Diving at Capernwray, if I'd known what I needed a week ago I could've just popped in and sorted it. Now I'm 200 miles away. Haha. Typical! The only thing is Motobambino is missing just one of the parts I need. I might call him Monday and see if he can source it.

Fran.

 

[Toshi 975]

Hi all,

I hope everyone is doing well.

It's been a long time since I've posted here as the little 500 sadly hasn't seen much action in recent years. She's currently with a classic car specialist and I've been handed a parts list to obtain. The last few bits I bought were from Axel Girstl in 2017. So I guess my question is, since now the UK is no longer in the EU what changes am I to expect ordering from Axel Girstl since my last purchase?

Thanks in anticipation.

Fran.

I agree with most of what Tom says about Motobambino etc but I keep regular checks on prices and noticed that the prices at Axel Gerstl have increased dramatically made a lot worse by Brexit. I purchased a number of smaller items from DeAngelo Motori a few months ago and with all the additions the parts cost double the original price by the time they landed on my doorstep.
Also Mark at Motobambino is fussy about the quality of the parts he sells and is one of my first choices for parts.
What is the bit that you cannot get?

 

[ciccio500]

I agree with most of what Tom says about Motobambino etc but I keep regular checks on prices and noticed that the prices at Axel Gerstl have increased dramatically made a lot worse by Brexit. I purchased a number of smaller items from DeAngelo Motori a few months ago and with all the additions the parts cost double the original price by the time they landed on my doorstep.
Also Mark at Motobambino is fussy about the quality of the parts he sells and is one of my first choices for parts.
What is the bit that you cannot get?

Thanks Toshi,

I think I'm gonna call them first thing Monday.

I need an oil filter for 1970 L but can't seem to find it on the website.

Fran.

 

[Toshi 975]

Thanks Toshi,

I think I'm gonna call them first thing Monday.

I need an oil filter for 1970 L but can't seem to find it on the website.

Fran.

Fran there is no such thing as an oil filter element For a 500. The engine makes use of a centrifugal oil filter system built into the crankshaft pulley. It is advisable to clean that out every 12,000 miles.

 

[ciccio500]

Fran there is no such thing as an oil filter element For a 500. The engine makes use of a centrifugal oil filter system built into the crankshaft pulley. It is advisable to clean that out every 12,000 miles.

Well that explains why I can't find one! Haha! I'll cross it off my shopping list. Thanks Toshi.

 

[the hobbler]

Fran there is no such thing as an oil filter element For a 500. The engine makes use of a centrifugal oil filter system built into the crankshaft pulley. It is advisable to clean that out every 12,000 miles.

As " Toshi" has pointed out, no Fiat 500 (as built) had an 'oil-filter'. The aluminium cover on the front end (at rear of car) of the crankshaft is a, very effective. centrigugal oil filter. Parts-wise all you need is the large '0' ring that the cover uses as a seal. The cover is held in place by a ring of 6 x 6mm (10mm spanner) bolts. When you remove this cover, have a pan under it as some oil will come out. In the cover, and the belt pulley, you will see what looks like 'rubber'---this is in fact all the gunge that that has been centrifuged out. Clean both the cover AND the inside of the pulley. Although it is a bit of a faff, this job CAN be done with the rear cross-member in place. The filter cover will only fit back on in one place (the 6 retaining bolts are not equidistant) but I would suggest that you mark both the cover and the pulley with tippex (or similar)---possibly at the timing-marks point which will make it easier to relocate

 

[the hobbler]

As " Toshi" has pointed out, no Fiat 500 (as built) had an 'oil-filter'. The aluminium cover on the front end (at rear of car) of the crankshaft is a, very effective. centrigugal oil filter. Parts-wise all you need is the large '0' ring that the cover uses as a seal. The cover is held in place by a ring of 6 x 6mm (10mm spanner) bolts. When you remove this cover, have a pan under it as some oil will come out. In the cover, and the belt pulley, you will see what looks like 'rubber'---this is in fact all the gunge that that has been centrifuged out. Clean both the cover AND the inside of the pulley. Although it is a bit of a faff, this job CAN be done with the rear cross-member in place. The filter cover will only fit back on in one place (the 6 retaining bolts are not equidistant) but I would suggest that you mark both the cover and the pulley with tippex (or similar)---possibly at the timing-marks point which will make it easier to relocate

The part number at Motobambino for the "oil-filter" cover's seal is:---EN 0141. It costs £1.80 inc VAT

 

[ciccio500]

Thanks Tom,

I'm not doing any of the work, but I'll pass on the info. At the moment the top of the engine is off. It's having new exhaust valves and inlets on the rear cylinder, and a new starter motor. Apparently there was an issue with the carb which was causing it to run lean, which led to over heating. There was 0 compression from the rear cylinder. I've had it converted to electric ignition too. I'm also having it converted to run on unleaded, and whilst the engine is in bits I can change all the tin wear with some nice shiny new ones I've had for a while.

Fran.

 

[the hobbler]

Thanks Tom,

I'm not doing any of the work, but I'll pass on the info. At the moment the top of the engine is off. It's having new exhaust valves and inlets on the rear cylinder, and a new starter motor. Apparently there was an issue with the carb which was causing it to run lean, which led to over heating. There was 0 compression from the rear cylinder. I've had it converted to electric ignition too. I'm also having it converted to run on unleaded, and whilst the engine is in bits I can change all the tin wear with some nice shiny new ones I've had for a while.

Fran.

The 'electronic' ignition packs are, to a point, a good move. However, they have one LARGE weak spot---they don't like heat!. A continual flow of hot air over them causes the ignition packs to wilt, and then die---100C is the 'wilt point'.. There are two ways round the problem (1) stick to points ignitipn and by using a condenser from either "Swiftune" or "Shacktune" mount the condenser up by the coil. Both of these condensers (they look almost identical) have a long 'feed' wire as well as a long earth wire enabling them to be mounted remotely from the distributor or, (2) have the distributor wrapped in a heat-shield medium in order to prevent the distributor top (and therefore the ignition pack) getting to the'wilt' point

 

[dangfiat]

For these competition condensors, are the wires long enought to go from the fender side back to the dizzy? They look pretty short (longer, but still kinda short)

 

[the hobbler]

For these competition condensors, are the wires long enought to go from the fender side back to the dizzy? They look pretty short (longer, but still kinda short)

The whole point of these "Competition" condensers (Shacktune and Swiftune) is that by having both a 'feed' lead (to the negative side of the coil) and an 'earth' lead you can mount them AWAY from the distributor and therefore the heat of the 'cooling' air from the engine. Unless a condenser earths through through the body of the condenser, it doesn't have to be attached to the distributor---it can be alongside the coil, held in place by one of the coil-mount studs and the earth lead can go to either of the coil-mount studs. Due to the limited amount of thread on these studs, you might find it easier to take the 'earth' lead round the back of the coil and secure it to whichever stud the condenser is NOT secured to. These 'competition' condensers do NOT earth through their bodies. You then just connect the 'feed' lead to the negative side of the coil which should have, and still needs, a wire from the distributor to the negative side of the coil

 

[dangfiat]

Thanks! Hadn't looked at it that way (the condensor doesn't go back to the dizzy). The explanation is much appreciated.

Off to Swiftune to order (my nice running 650 is now a lawn ornament after ~40miles of 65mph on a 30-35c day). I suspect the ignition has gone (starts but won't rev at all & runs crazy rough). Will throw a standard cap at it just to test in the meantime

Daniel