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Ant Wells
Guest
Does anyone know the size of the alternator in a 2.0 HGT and will it fit in a 1.2 with no mods? Cheers
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Alternator question
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Mike
Guest
a 2.0 alternator fit a 1.2? id say no as id pretty much say itd be too powerful and may burn your battery and or loom?
thats just at a quick think tho.
Dont tell me,the alternator is on its way out?
thats just at a quick think tho.
Dont tell me,the alternator is on its way out?
OP
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Ant Wells
Guest
Nah it's not on it's way out, was just thinking in terms for car audio 
gonna do the big 3 (0 gauge wire from + battery to + alternator, - battery to chassis and - battery to engine block)
gonna do the big 3 (0 gauge wire from + battery to + alternator, - battery to chassis and - battery to engine block)
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jords
Guest
ant what is it your going for? is it constant volume or are you going for DB burps?
If its loud audio on the move, i'd do the big 3, but also use an optima yellow top or the likes under your bonnet as a primary battery.
reason for that is when the voltage drops on a normal battery due to the stereo's draw it will push the alternator to make up for the lack of current, and it will eventually give up (i know from experience on that! lol).
A decent car audio battery like an optima yellow top gives out a constant voltage and never fluctuates from that, so the alternator would not be pushed as hard to make up for drops in current. Only thing is you'd need to make sure you dont run it down to empty without realising!
If its loud audio on the move, i'd do the big 3, but also use an optima yellow top or the likes under your bonnet as a primary battery.
reason for that is when the voltage drops on a normal battery due to the stereo's draw it will push the alternator to make up for the lack of current, and it will eventually give up (i know from experience on that! lol).
A decent car audio battery like an optima yellow top gives out a constant voltage and never fluctuates from that, so the alternator would not be pushed as hard to make up for drops in current. Only thing is you'd need to make sure you dont run it down to empty without realising!
OP
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Ant Wells
Guest
Yeah I've looked into the yellow tops, not cheap! Will be used for constant sound rather than Db. So you say the alternator currently on would be fine with the big 3 done and a yellow top?? The system would probably have around 1200WRms to begin with and build up from there.
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Dark Lurker
Guest
not deaf then?
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jords
Guest
in my opinion i think a yellow top and uprated wiring would do the job for you for up to 2000wrms. The only thing to be careful of is that the battery will discharge quicker than it will recharge...
so basically you'll have to spend a slightly little longer with the stereo on low or off than cranked up to the max to ensure you keep on top of the battery's charge.
When I was tinkering with my system i was at one point running a single 15" at around 6000wrms, with a yellow top, and i found that once a week or so with occasionally turning it right up i would have to trickle charge the battery for a few hours to keep it charged fully. You may need to do the same occasionally.
I think you would be more than ok with a yellow top, or even consider an optima red top. They are slightly less powerful but will do the job all the same for the power you would be likely to run. Have a look at the stinger batteries also they are cheaper and will perform for you.
For your setup i would see if you can get hold of a volts gauge, or a battery charge reader to keep a track on the batteries condition if you listen to your music loud a lot. a volts gauge will only drop below 12.5 when the batteries empty, so this will help to let you know when the battery is almost empty, and let you know that you should keep the car running to charge the battery.
only advice i can say is do the big 3, get hold of a decent audio battery and be aware of the battery needing to be recharged. Stay away from power caps as well mate! they won't help... with the power you'll be running they'll get drained VERY QUICKLY and end up blocking current from flowing directly from your battery. Bass will end up being very sloppy and air movement will drop considerably.
hope this is of help mate, and if theres anything else you ever need advice on just ask =)
so basically you'll have to spend a slightly little longer with the stereo on low or off than cranked up to the max to ensure you keep on top of the battery's charge.
When I was tinkering with my system i was at one point running a single 15" at around 6000wrms, with a yellow top, and i found that once a week or so with occasionally turning it right up i would have to trickle charge the battery for a few hours to keep it charged fully. You may need to do the same occasionally.
I think you would be more than ok with a yellow top, or even consider an optima red top. They are slightly less powerful but will do the job all the same for the power you would be likely to run. Have a look at the stinger batteries also they are cheaper and will perform for you.
For your setup i would see if you can get hold of a volts gauge, or a battery charge reader to keep a track on the batteries condition if you listen to your music loud a lot. a volts gauge will only drop below 12.5 when the batteries empty, so this will help to let you know when the battery is almost empty, and let you know that you should keep the car running to charge the battery.
only advice i can say is do the big 3, get hold of a decent audio battery and be aware of the battery needing to be recharged. Stay away from power caps as well mate! they won't help... with the power you'll be running they'll get drained VERY QUICKLY and end up blocking current from flowing directly from your battery. Bass will end up being very sloppy and air movement will drop considerably.
hope this is of help mate, and if theres anything else you ever need advice on just ask =)
OP
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Ant Wells
Guest
Cheers for the info mate it's really helpful. Gonna do the big 3 as soon as I can cause I know how beneficial it is. Will have to hold out for a bit for the battery but shouldn't be a problem as I don't constantly drive round with it on full.
Need to find an amp for my sub yet lol need to find a decent-ish 3000w amp from theloudest.com (I know these are slated but I've had nothing but good experiences with them).
You're from north west aren't you jords?
Need to find an amp for my sub yet lol need to find a decent-ish 3000w amp from theloudest.com (I know these are slated but I've had nothing but good experiences with them).
You're from north west aren't you jords?
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Mike
Guest
never heard of the big 3 before lol even tho i have been mad on my music being loud in the past.But then again,i think im getting old as ive not bothered with subs for years ha
so would it be worth doing that 'big 3' then?
so would it be worth doing that 'big 3' then?
OP
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Ant Wells
Guest
Apparently so, easy to do as well. As far as I'm aware it just improves the efficiency of battery and allows for higher voltages to go to the amp (14.4 rather than 12). The extra volts give the amp a bit more 'umph' if you get what I mean? Lol YouTube it there's 5 minute videos of how to do it.
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jords
Guest
mike yeah it really does work, lol.
Ant yeah im in bradford (unfortunately)....
If your looking for an amp i would look at ebay for a VIBE MONOBOX 4 - 3000watt peak 1400rms @ 1ohm. Theyre going cheap and they are really underestimated. People think Vibe aren't that good because halfords stock some of their stuff, but they are really efficient amps and look pretty tidy as well.
Ant yeah im in bradford (unfortunately)....
If your looking for an amp i would look at ebay for a VIBE MONOBOX 4 - 3000watt peak 1400rms @ 1ohm. Theyre going cheap and they are really underestimated. People think Vibe aren't that good because halfords stock some of their stuff, but they are really efficient amps and look pretty tidy as well.