Technical 96 model 230 Turbocharger change.

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Technical 96 model 230 Turbocharger change.

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Apr 28, 2012
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Hi All,

I have a motorhome on a 2.5TD LWB Maxi chassis
I have suffered a loss of turbocharger pressure recently and this is accompanied by a turbo whistle under power. I have a pressure gauge fitted to the manifold and used to have up to 1 bar pressure under max power. this has now dropped to 0.6 bar. I have pressure checked all the air hoses and intercooler with no result. Im now thinking turbocharger. Changing the turbocharger looks to be a bit of an epic. Has anyone any experience of changing this unit?
:confused::confused::confused:
 
Hi All,

I have a motorhome on a 2.5TD LWB Maxi chassis
I have suffered a loss of turbocharger pressure recently and this is accompanied by a turbo whistle under power. I have a pressure gauge fitted to the manifold and used to have up to 1 bar pressure under max power. this has now dropped to 0.6 bar. I have pressure checked all the air hoses and intercooler with no result. Im now thinking turbocharger. Changing the turbocharger looks to be a bit of an epic. Has anyone any experience of changing this unit?
:confused::confused::confused:

First make sure its not simply a sticky wastegate. Remove c-clip on the wastegate lever and disconnect the actuator make sure the wastegate moves freely and closes fully.

Secondly open jubliee clip and remove the hose on the compressor side. Check for oil in the conpressor housing and catch the turbo shaft with your fingers and check for play in the bearings up and down and forward and back.

Remove the return hose and inspect for sludge / blockage. Wash out the hose in a container with solvent e.g. diesel and check for metallic particles that would indicate bearing damage.

If you find the turbo is bad. Its easier to leave the exhaust / turbine side on the vehicle and remove and replace the turbo core/compressor side.

With turbo still warm, remove the central clamp on turbo and soak joint with penetrating / releasing oil, remove inlet hose, remove c-clip from wastegate actuator and disconnect, remove oils supply banjo bolt and oil return hose.

Leave penetrating oil as long as you can and reapply a few times if you have time. Then gentle persuasion from a leather/plastic mallet is usually enough to seperate it.
 
Many thanks for that Corcai.
I do have oil inside all the air hoses and I have disconnected the capsule and wired the waste gate shut but it seems to make no difference. i will take the soild compressor outlet pipe off tomorrow, weather permitting, and check for end float and freedom of rotation.
 
Many thanks for that Corcai.
I do have oil inside all the air hoses and I have disconnected the capsule and wired the waste gate shut but it seems to make no difference. i will take the soild compressor outlet pipe off tomorrow, weather permitting, and check for end float and freedom of rotation.

Theres always some oil in the hoses from the pcv. Probably worth checking that your intercooler isn't full of oil if theres a lot of it though.
 
Well that was a turn up for the books and no mistake, As I was coming to the end of a 250 mile run I noticed that there was a large rush of air type noise when I pushed the pedal to the metal. When I checked underneath, the exhaust front pipe to the expansion box had sprung a leak. Ordered a new exhaust and while waiting for that removed and opened up the old exhaust system. It was a £70+ system from Ebay and the pipe through the expansion box had fractured internally. This had allowed the fibreglass matting to block the outlet from the box into the next stage. Hence no where for the turbocharged gasses to go. Changed the exhaust and went for a test run and she was off like a young gazelle. 1.1 bar on the turbocharger pressure. A cautionary tale about buying cheap exhausts me thinks.
 
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