Technical 594-A1 000 engine rebuild.

[BucsaBogdan]

The plan is to get the engine parts to the machine shop and get everything messured up to have an accurate picture.
I’m doing a full factory spec rebuild.
If I were to guess I think they need replaceing.
Regarding the crank journals I have one that has a light scoreing in it. Exactly at the bearing where the scorig is. So I think that definitely there was an issue at some point.

Before I started the rebuild I decided that I would replace everything that is not in factory spec.
The parts are adding up but to be honest one can not expect that an engine from 1974 does not have worn parts.

Thanks for the imput.

 

[BucsaBogdan]

The new pistons came today. Since I never ordered one it was a nice surprise that they cane with rings and the pin as well. Thanks “ The Hobbler” for the tip.
Tomorrow I will take everything to the machine shop.

 

[the hobbler]

The new pistons came today. Since I never ordered one it was a nice surprise that they cane with rings and the pin as well. Thanks “ The Hobbler” for the tip.
Tomorrow I will take everything to the machine shop.

Be careful Bogdan----the pistons have a 'right' way and a 'wrong' way for fittment to the con-rods, and then the engine. If you don't have a picture to show you the correct way, let me know and I will borrow my wife's phone and try and send you a picture out of the workshop manual.

 

[BucsaBogdan]

Be careful Bogdan----the pistons have a 'right' way and a 'wrong' way for fittment to the con-rods, and then the engine. If you don't have a picture to show you the correct way, let me know and I will borrow my wife's phone and try and send you a picture out of the workshop manual.

Thanks for the reminder. I have been reading the workshop manual and saw that there is an order. Picture from manual attached.

 

[BucsaBogdan]

Everything ready for machine shop.
I have noticed that the camshaft is worn where it meats the oil pump . Is this normal? I have no ideea if it could affect the oil pressure. Any input would be much appreciated.

 

[the hobbler]

Everything ready for machine shop.
I have noticed that the camshaft is worn where it meats the oil pump . Is this normal? I have no ideea if it could affect the oil pressure. Any input would be much appreciated.

It would seem to be normal---all the engines that I have stripped have wear marks on both the pump and the camshaft, but I have never noticed any oil pressure drop.

 

[BucsaBogdan]

It would seem to be normal---all the engines that I have stripped have wear marks on both the pump and the camshaft, but I have never noticed any oil pressure drop.

Thanks for the replay.
It was strange to me that the oil pump has worn out the side of the camshaft. At first look the material out of witch the camshaft is made seeams stronger than the oil pump.

 

[Toshi 975]

I would guess that I have handled over 30 used camshafts and wear on that face is quite normal and I think the worst one I came across was recessed by about 0.8mm but the lobes were still good so I used it and it was fine. The big problem with camshafts is lobe wear and I would recommend anybody that has an engine stripped down to put some callipers over the lobes to check for this.

 

[BucsaBogdan]

I would guess that I have handled over 30 used camshafts and wear on that face is quite normal and I think the worst one I came across was recessed by about 0.8mm but the lobes were still good so I used it and it was fine. The big problem with camshafts is lobe wear and I would recommend anybody that has an engine stripped down to put some callipers over the lobes to check for this.

When I’l get the parts back from the machine shop I will check for lobe wear as well. Thanks “Toshi 975”

Update on engine build:
Dropped of everything at the machine shop.
We messured the crankshaft and I need standard big end bearings and 0,2mm undersize main bearings.
The question I have is what main bearings to buy?
What I have seen on al the sites is that they have 2-3 diferent ones. Usually they start ar 50€ and go up to 100€ and 150€ a piece. The 150 is specially made of steel.

Any advice from somebody who purchesed ones recently?
Have a nice evening.

 

[the hobbler]

When I’l get the parts back from the machine shop I will check for lobe wear as well. Thanks “Toshi 975”

Update on engine build:
Dropped of everything at the machine shop.
We messured the crankshaft and I need standard big end bearings and 0,2mm undersize main bearings.
The question I have is what main bearings to buy?
What I have seen on al the sites is that they have 2-3 diferent ones. Usually they start ar 50€ and go up to 100€ and 150€ a piece. The 150 is specially made of steel.

Any advice from somebody who purchesed ones recently?
Have a nice evening.

Bogdan; as per my e-mail to you, go for the E100 per bearing. Axel Gerstle sell a set (2 bearings) of +0.2mm for E199.9. You do not require the steel-backed bearing (and only available for the front, timing-chain end, of the engine) for normal road use. Do NOT buy the 'cheap' versions---they are cheap for a good reason!

 

[BucsaBogdan]

Bogdan; as per my e-mail to you, go for the E100 per bearing. Axel Gerstle sell a set (2 bearings) of +0.2mm for E199.9. You do not require the steel-backed bearing (and only available for the front, timing-chain end, of the engine) for normal road use. Do NOT buy the 'cheap' versions---they are cheap for a good reason!

I have just ordered them. I bought an oil pump as well since I checked the clearences and read the letter you sent me as well.
Thanks for all your help.
With a bit of luck I may have all the parts this year.

 

[BucsaBogdan]

Hello again,
Small but steady progres on the engine build.
Cleaned the cilinder head bolts on the bench grinder, got the bronze bush out of the crankshaft and welded the plugs on the crankshaft. As per the The Hobbit advice and a couple of threads on this forum I decided that it is a must do job. Thanks for the info.

 

[BucsaBogdan]

Happy new year!
Since I was a bit borred in the holidays I tryed to cary on with the engine build.
Since the parts ar still at the machine shop I decided to do the modification on the engine cowling for the alternator and to save an engine cowling that I received whem I bought the cheap engine.

The alternator was tested at a shop end everything is ok. Just cleaned it and put a voltage regulator on it.

The cowling was in a rough shape and I thing a normal person would have trown it away.
The reason I wanted to save it is that I want to start bodywork on the 500 and needed the practice.
This is my first attempt on bodywork so be gentle with me)

I used the folowing method
-driled out the spot welds
-cleaned the rust as much as I could
-put some rust converter from Wurth
-painted the parts with grey primer
-welded everything back.

 

[the hobbler]

Happy new year!
Since I was a bit borred in the holidays I tryed to cary on with the engine build.
Since the parts ar still at the machine shop I decided to do the modification on the engine cowling for the alternator and to save an engine cowling that I received whem I bought the cheap engine.

The alternator was tested at a shop end everything is ok. Just cleaned it and put a voltage regulator on it.

The cowling was in a rough shape and I thing a normal person would have trown it away.
The reason I wanted to save it is that I want to start bodywork on the 500 and needed the practice.
This is my first attempt on bodywork so be gentle with me)

I used the folowing method
-driled out the spot welds
-cleaned the rust as much as I could
-put some rust converter from Wurth
-painted the parts with grey primer
-welded everything back.

That is a very good result---well done!

 

[BucsaBogdan]

Update on the build.

-the modified cowel for the alternator and the repaired top panel have been painted. I chose powder coating.

-the machine shop finished all they had to do on the engine. (Since this is my first engine build, and I’m a bit ocd, I’m waiting for a dial bore gauge to check all the parts) I have a set of micrometers and started to check what I can.

-I cleaned the block today after I washed it in the dishwasher and ruined it. It oxidised and looked terrible.
-got rid of a snaped bold on the gearbox end and took out all the aluminium caps from the oil passages to properly clean the block.
-cleaned al the threads on the block and found 4 striped ones on the bottom for fixing the oil pan.( will try to retap them tomorow.

 

[the hobbler]

Update on the build.

-the modified cowel for the alternator and the repaired top panel have been painted. I chose powder coating.

-the machine shop finished all they had to do on the engine. (Since this is my first engine build, and I’m a bit ocd, I’m waiting for a dial bore gauge to check all the parts) I have a set of micrometers and started to check what I can.

-I cleaned the block today after I washed it in the dishwasher and ruined it. It oxidised and looked terrible.
-got rid of a snaped bold on the gearbox end and took out all the aluminium caps from the oil passages to properly clean the block.
-cleaned al the threads on the block and found 4 striped ones on the bottom for fixing the oil pan.( will try to retap them tomorow.

If the threads in the crankcase are too bad to tap out to the correct 6mm (x 1.0mm) there is enough metal in the thickness of the crankcase to safely go to 7mm x 1.0mm.

 

[BucsaBogdan]

If the threads in the crankcase are too bad to tap out to the correct 6mm (x 1.0mm) there is enough metal in the thickness of the crankcase to safely go to 7mm x 1.0mm.

Thanks for the advice. 1 of the 4 is definitly to bad

 

[BucsaBogdan]

Hello,
Update on the build.
-Got a good deal on an oil pan from Axel Gerstl, 3,5L for 85€.
-Every tool I should need to check the clearences of all the parts have arrived.
Started messureing and so far so good.
One small issue is with the camshaft bronze bush on the crankcase that needs a chamfer so that the camshaft spins freealy.(something to remember for the next one).

I also have a small question for the ones that have done rebuilds in the past.
The only thing that has not been touched are the cam follower holles in the crankcase. I messured them and then saw in the repair manual that they are out of spec. When I took the parts to the machine shop they told me they can not rebore them because of their size.
It’s the only thing that is not in spec so far and I would like to know what the consequences are if I leave them like they are.
Thought about getting new original cam followers to maybe try to be somewhat close to spec.
Any advice is much appreciated.
Thanks.

 

[Toshi 975]

I have seen oversize cam followers for sale but I can’t remember where.

 

[Toshi 975]

Found some on the Axel Gerstl site