Technical 4x4 Sisley reborn with progress

[webchief]

Hello Guys,

First happy new year to everyone.

I am having 843 cc 33kw. i.e engine in my 4x4 1985 sisley.

Currently car looks like it was in ww1 and ww2, but engine, gearbox and rear differential run perfectly fine and they where maintained properly (for now).

When I got the car, it had problems with distributor and I got it fixed and cute panda run perfectly fine for 15 min in idle....

After which it shut down and would not start anymore.

So I need some help on this as I cant find any good manual for it or wiring scheme as it looks like it is electrical issue.

Simptoms
#1 Turned off after 15 idle run
#2 Battery was very weak when it turned off (found out later that some did work on winkers and they where draining the battery)
#3 Got new battery in, same issue
#4 pump is delivering fuel to carburetor but not going thru nozzle injector

#5 There is electricity going to injector but not sure what properties should it have ( resistance, voltage and so on )
#6 as I tested today I have found out there is no power going to distributor at all right now. but will have to re-test as I was in rush and I am not sure if I got proper results.


so, if anyone could tell me what voltage and rest should be on injector. that would be great.
any wiring scheme also.

Here is picture on how exactly my engine looks and with same carburetor. (not my panda in picture, I dont have this pressure regulator)


I will soon add pictures of my panda and progress as I go thru with it.



--I am not native english so, please, forgive me if I missed terms for parts, as I am not sure how they are all called in english.

---If I opened this thread in wrong category, admins please move it to proper one. thank you.

 

[Dragon Man]

that looks very familiar, hmm..

looks like the Bosch injection system. i actually tried to convert my sisley to run from it but could never get it to work right. i took the system from a scrap fiat Uno 999cc ie. (turns out the system was originally intended for use on VWs as it has a VW stamp engraved on the aluminium intake manifold)

the stock cam/engine driven fuel pump wont run that injection system. you need a minimum of 0.8 bar from an electric pump. make sure you have a clean fuel filter, and a good fuel pump.

this injection system does not use a crank position sensor, it ONLY uses the spark signal from the distributor to fire the injector. (you will have 2 green wires attached to the coil pack one goes to the distributor, one goes to the ECU)

the throttle body has a little idle adjuster motor on it that the ECU uses.. this often fails causing loads of issues (this was the issue with mine)

if not running right, make sure the distributor is 100%.
most likely cause will be down to the "UFO" or vacuum advance actuator failing. pull the original vacuum pope off and put another or something else on it and suck on the pipe. if the "points" or magnetic pickup inside the distributor turns it should be fine. you should be able to suck on the pipe and eventually become unable to suck any more air from it. if you find you can keep sucking air, it has failed.
the AFC (auto fuel cutoff) is also triggered by vacuum, when the vacuum is high enough, it cuts the injector off. if your panda has a catalytic converter this is what stops it poising it. if the vacuum is not good due to bad seals or bad vacuum lines, this will cause issues and excessive fuel use. look out for any vacuum leaks anywhere. they cause hell.

the distributor needs an ignition switched +12v through the orange or red wire. (connected to the coil). both coil and distributor need to have a +12V switched live in order to work correctly!

its a well known thing that the "ignition module" fails on the/this distributor system that does not use points. if it fails you will get no spark and no injector firing. the injector fires with 12v. somewhere you will have 2 relays, one for a fuel pump and one for the injector. make sure both relays are good. (swap them over with the rear heated window relay as that is the same relay type)

the lambda (exhaust gas) sensor may have also failed.. this system uses a easy to source 3 wire narrow band lambda, 2x white wires are its built in heater, and one black wire which is the sensing wire. the thread is also a common size so should be easy to get.

correct me if i am wrong, but i do believe that the picture you have uploaded.. is my panda, Talon

if so the engine is a 999cc. i dont think they ever did a smaller engine with fuel injection in the panda 4x4.

i am happy to tell you that if this fuel injection system has completely failed, you can very easy convert the engine to good old carburettor.
all you need is the carb and an intake manifold from any other carbed panda with 999cc engine.


hope this helps, gives you some things to check up on!

 

[webchief]

Indeed, I took this screenshot from your video as it is only "online" shoot I managed to find with same engine bay.

I just remembered. I forgot to check what does engine block say about engine information, but my registration card says 843 cc 25 kw (it is 33kw) but previous owner took it down to 25 because of much smaller registration fee.

I managed to get it fixed. problem was with electronics on distributor (we call it c-module), swapped it. and worked perfectly fine.
After you explained which lines take what, it was easy to debug the issue. so thank you :worship:



I am still having issues with running on idle. but will check this in details when I strip down the car. I am just getting it now to "I run" faze, so I am sure all about engine is ok.

lights and winkers are connected directly and they are draining batter even when off so I need to take care of that before everything else regarding wiring and electronics.

Can anyone tell me how this part is exactly called. (the thingy that shows tilt of car - check attachments). Would love to get this in my sisley. I almost have complete list of parts I need and this one is missing on it.

 

[webchief]

Hello everyone, I am doing some work on my panda exterior and in same time I wanted to sort out issues with the idle.

Can anyone tell me what default values should be on valve completely closed and fully open ?

My TPS sensor is showing 4.97V and lowest I could get on my pins are 0.7V and max 3.9 for second pin combination.


I am guessing not low enough and not high enough and it causes me idle issues. ?