Technical 2010 Active horn not working

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Technical 2010 Active horn not working

the new LED computer safe type will not work as they will not allow enough current to activate the relay

The diagram you edited for me, is that a LHD car do you know?

I only ask as as it says the ground is on the passenger door pillar.
 
The diagram you edited for me, is that a LHD car do you know?

I only ask as as it says the ground is on the passenger door pillar.
thats where it is on my cars

its like a black rectangle bolted just below the dash on the A pillar


you can just see it above the carpet
 
thats where it is on my cars

its like a black rectangle bolted just below the dash on the A pillar


you can just see it above the carpet
Geeen and black is good to the body control plug.

Red and black, I’ve taken the plug out and it is dripping wet, with some corrosion from the plug, I don’t suppose there is a pin out diagram you have available?
 
the plugs actually marked - guess which one!!
 

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The plug to the horn is actually alright, it must be the body control pin that’s causing the problem?
 
ahh

first time i have seen a blocked duck bill damage a body computer in ages, most car have had them push in by now

it only takes a tiny bit of corrosion to stop it from working. You might need something sharp to scratch the surfaces

pin 2 connector "C" and pin 18 connector "H" should measure a dead short with a multi meter if you have one

its would be nice to fix properly but even worse case of internal damage to the internal link in the body computer isn't the end of the world as we can bypass it and connect the red and black directly to the green and black

body computer is well over £500 by the time you got someone to program the keys in, you cant just buy one off eBay and it will work
 
Ah, the problem is the horn pin has snapped off?

Can a used one be programmed to work?
 
Yeah, maybe just bypassing the body is the way to go
i can't see why cutting the two wires and joining the red and black directly to the green and black shouldn't work

you maybe able to get someone to replace the connector. but finding the correct skilled person isn't easy

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If I bear in mind it might not work and cut the cables accordingly I can always put it back.

I will see what’s involved in having a new used computer body programmed to the car first. As you say say it’s always nice to do it properly-ish…
 
If I bear in mind it might not work and cut the cables accordingly I can always put it back.

I will see what’s involved in having a new used computer body programmed to the car first. As you say say it’s always nice to do it properly-ish…
very few people can program a body computer it and normally charge over £250, plus you will need to supply one from roughly the same age and spec car. Annoying as it only a few minute job but the equipment costs several grand so they know you are stuffed

something like a genuine mobile phone repair shop (not a board swapper) could change the connector for you.

there are some Body Control Module Repair Service sprung up on eBay. I have no knowledge of which if any are reliable the seem to charge around £40 some seem to do component changing.
 
I’m going to take the module back out tomorrow and see if I can prize it apart and see what options I have from there, I’m leaning towards bypassing the CBM at the moment though.
 
I’m happy to confirm that bypassing the body control module works :)

Thank you all for you input, especially @koalar without your input and diagrams I’m not sure I’d have had the patients to chase the wiring to find the fault!!

Cheers
 
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