Technical 2004 ducato 2.8 jtd engine issue

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Technical 2004 ducato 2.8 jtd engine issue

glovermx

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Good Morning All,

been a long time lurker of the forum and always been able to find the answers ive needed by searching but its time to register and ask a specific question.

Ive got a 2004 Fiat Ducato 2.8 JTD based motorhome with 25,000 miles on the clock.

A few months back whilst driving, the fuel injection system came on and the van reverted to what felt like 3 cylinders. After looking on here, came to the conclusion it was related to wiring on the number 4 cylinder injector plug.

I wiggled the plug to confirm which was correct (warning light on dash went out)
I then removed the plug, cleaned it and refitted. The van was good for a 20 mile trip with no issues.

As i am planning a long trip next summer, and after reading this would only be a temp fix i decided to remove the plug completely and solder a new one in.

to do this, i disconnected the battery, snipped the old plug off and re soldered in a new one.

I then started the van, injection light was out but the engine light was on. I turned the van on and off again and the engine light went out and all seamed perfect. I took the van for a drive and half a mile down the road the engine light has come back on (not the fuel system light) and the van is running very bad to the point i didnt think i would make it the half mile home. It only just idles, nearly cuts out.

I have a obd2 reader that i used to try and get the code but to no avail. I have now ordered the relevant KKL cable but this will not be here until the new year for me to read any codes.

Has anyone who has done this had the same problem? Could anyone shed some light on what could be causing the problem? is it related to what i have done or just a coincident?

I have checked to make sure i haven't knocked anything, or burnt anything when soldering.

Many Thanks in advanced
 
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Hi I remember on 2.8 jtd number 4 connector plugs fail because wire connector loose not talking plug I’m talking electric join look inch to right is a clamp holding all wires it can stretch the cables opening female connectors in plug 4 check your new connector plug the connections are tight onto the two injector electrical pins together this was common fault this engine if they are both tight you’ll have to wait what you code reader says
 
Where are you located? I have some kit available,, I am in south Cheshire. I reckon you have disturbed something, legion are the cases that pop up on here re fiat wiring! You may try disconnecting the battery for a while and see iif it corrects itself? I had an issue after replacing my battery, it is abs related and was a bad earth -allegedly.
 
Thank you for the replies.

Having bit of a nightmare with this!
ordered the KKL cable on days ago and still haven't received it.

Fingers crossed the cable should be with me today!

I had another look around and couldn't see anything untoward that i may have done. I have since disconnected the battery again for 10 mins, reconnected and the engine light has gone off and its running fine again!?

I haven't actually drove it yet but this was the same after i replaced the plug, the engine light and poor running only came on after half a mile or so.

Thanks
 
Have you checked turbo actuator not seized onto turbo waist gate this common fault causes mil light to come on and go off when you accelerate of course you get p code relating to boost pressure but easy to check with screwdriver or Mitty vac if you can get underneath vehicle check waist gate lever not seized !!
 
Have you checked turbo actuator not seized onto turbo waist gate this common fault causes mil light to come on and go off when you accelerate of course you get p code relating to boost pressure but easy to check with screwdriver or Mitty vac if you can get underneath vehicle check waist gate lever not seized !!

Thank you for the reply, no I've not checked this yet, i will check this out tomorrow
 
So my KKL cabe finally arrived this afternoon so was able to hook it up to the Multiecuscan software to read the codes.

There was only one code, P1555 Accelerator / Brake Coherency
The suggestion in the software for this is that both the brake and accelerator have been pressed together...

Ive had a search for the code on the forum and a few different suggestions, one been the turbo actuator is seized, that has also been suggested by whine0.

The van is a motorhome so typically has been stood for 3 months until i replaced the injector plug, then took it for a test drive afterwards.

Im starting to think that this problem has nothing to do with me replacing the plug to injector number four, and is just a coincidence that whatever it is has happened after doing it. Highly unlikely but possible :bang:

Im going to check the actuator arm tomorrow and take it for another drive to see what happens!

Thanks
 
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Check brake lights switch and wiring. Brake light switches usually have two outputs one for lights / cluster warning light and one for ecu. Brake lights may work fine but other output may be faulty. If the ecu thinks the brake is on it will limp along.
 
So I've spent this morning looking over the van again.

Ive checked the turbo actuator, all free and working fine.

I had the van ticking over this morning for half an hour, no codes and all fine.

Just before i was about to take it for a test drive, i was having a play around on multiecuscan, then all of a sudden check engine light appeared with the code P0202 (injector circuit 2 malfunction)

Now i don't know if this was something i caused messing around, but i cleared it and restarted and all good again. I took injector 2 plug off and cleaned and refitted.

Took the van for a 20 mile drive and all was perfect.

Maybe injector 2 plug is playing up as well the same as number 4 was originally so i think i best just moniter it now and see what code i get next time if and when it happens. If its the injector 2 code again i may replace this the same as i have on number 4.

Cheers
 
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i was thinking this over last night and came to the conclusion maybe it wasn't cylinder 4 plug that had the issue.

I didnt have a reader at the time to get any codes, but with it been the common problem presumed it was to be cylinder number 4. When i wiggled the plug on number 4 i could get the light to come on and off, hence why i presumed it was this.

Maybe it fact it was cylinder 2 with the problem and as i was moving the wiring to cylinder 4 i was also disturbing the number 2 wiring as well.

I've just ordered another new plug for cylinder 2 so hopefully this will be the cure.

Thanks
 
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