General 2000 Ducato 1.9td.
- Thread starter RRV8
- Start date
Currently reading:
General 2000 Ducato 1.9td.
Someone with more specific knowledge please feel free to correct me
.I thing from distant memory engine similar to PSA XUD9 Peugeot and required cambelt/pulley off and to change the shims involved undoing evenly the cam carrier caps to remove cam and access the underside of the cam followers to change the shims, obviously after measuring the originals to know what new shims were required.
So if that is the case then normal mechanics tools, feeler gauges and a 0-1inch (or metric equivalent) micrometer.
I would also say very important not to disturb the order/position of the cam carrier caps etc. and when well oiled and assembling be very careful to correctly and evenly torque the cam carrier bolts to prevent damage!
If head off then easier, however if in situ, position pistons out of way of valves until correctly timed at the finish. I seem to recall a Z shaped tool that located behind the starter against the block into the flywheel when timing, also injector pump timing correctly as well as before crank sensor and cam positioning sensors if memory serves, it was approx. 20 years ago.
Last edited:
Thanks very much for this info, it confirms that maybe it's is easier to remove the timing belt, camshaft etc to carry out this shim adjustment.Someone with more specific knowledge please feel free to correct me
I thing from distant memory engine similar to PSA XUD9 Peugeot and required cambelt/pulley off and to change the shims involved undoing evenly the cam carrier caps to remove cam and access the underside of the cam followers to change the shims, obviously after measuring the originals to know what new shims were required.
So if that is the case then normal mechanics tools, feeler gauges and a 0-1inch (or metric equivalent) micrometer.
I would also say very important not to disturb the order/position of the cam carrier caps etc. and when well oiled and assembling be very careful to correctly and evenly torque the cam carrier bolts to prevent damage!
If head off then easier, however if in situ, position pistons out of way of valves until correctly timed at the finish. I seem to recall a Z shaped tool that located behind the starter against the block into the flywheel when timing, also injector pump timing correctly as well as before crank sensor and cam positioning sensors if memory serves, it was approx. 20 years ago.
I have very tight inlet valves clearances under 0.03mm. The exhausts are approx 0.30mm.
It looks like you may get away with the exhausts, assuming yours is the 1905cc engine in this Autodata manual I have. Pen marks the valve clearances (cold)
I do have a cam belt book, but while it lists a similar engine, the Ducato version seems to start with the later 1.9 which is not an XUD.
If you have an engine code, me or someone else on the Forum may be able to help.
Also if you have the brake vacuum pump on that will have to come off.
Rather than buying shims you may be able to have them ground down at an engineering works, I did on a 1998 2.8 Ducato engine.
Attachments
Last edited:
Shouldn't really grind them down. The shims are case hardened on both sides.
.
Attachments
As Davren says, not ideal to grind away surface hardened shims, if correct size ones still available that is the preferred option.
DHX on chassis plate corresponds with Autodata details, note it also on right hand page shows torque settings for cam carrier.
I cannot match details in the cam belt timing book, so hopefully someone else can help on that. On the Peugeot XUD 1905cc engines I seem to recall a drill bit lined up through sprockets into block/head, injector pump, etc. Plus the tool I had to go into flywheel behind starter into the block.
Once you have correctly identified timing marks don't forget to move pistons down the bore so you don't have valves and piston contact when setting shims.
Also you probably know already, but after fitting new cam belt and timing engine correctly always best to turn engine by hand at least two full revolutions to make sure nothing hits before trying to start engine.
DHX on chassis plate corresponds with Autodata details, note it also on right hand page shows torque settings for cam carrier.
I cannot match details in the cam belt timing book, so hopefully someone else can help on that. On the Peugeot XUD 1905cc engines I seem to recall a drill bit lined up through sprockets into block/head, injector pump, etc. Plus the tool I had to go into flywheel behind starter into the block.
Once you have correctly identified timing marks don't forget to move pistons down the bore so you don't have valves and piston contact when setting shims
.Also you probably know already, but after fitting new cam belt and timing engine correctly always best to turn engine by hand at least two full revolutions to make sure nothing hits before trying to start engine.
Thanks again. I am clear with what I have to do.As Davren says, not ideal to grind away surface hardened shims, if correct size ones still available that is the preferred option.
DHX on chassis plate corresponds with Autodata details, note it also on right hand page shows torque settings for cam carrier.
I cannot match details in the cam belt timing book, so hopefully someone else can help on that. On the Peugeot XUD 1905cc engines I seem to recall a drill bit lined up through sprockets into block/head, injector pump, etc. Plus the tool I had to go into flywheel behind starter into the block.
Once you have correctly identified timing marks don't forget to move pistons down the bore so you don't have valves and piston contact when setting shims
Also you probably know already, but after fitting new cam belt and timing engine correctly always best to turn engine by hand at least two full revolutions to make sure nothing hits before trying to start engine.
