Technical 126p elx newly built engine

[Thomas Vaughan]

Thanks for taking the time to give me suggestions.
The timing works by a notch on the pulley passing a crank position sensor at 10° before tdc. It seems that it is correct and would be hard to change as the sensor is firmly screwed in place and shows no signs of moving. The crank and pulley can only be put on correctly as they have differently spaced bolt holes.
If I put an ohm meter on the sensor leads the resistance changes as the notch passes by.

What compression should I be getting (dry/wet throttle open/closed??)

I can't believe so many thousands of fiat 126s have been produced and I can't find anyone who has the same symptoms?

 

[bugsymike]

Thanks for taking the time to give me suggestions.
The timing works by a notch on the pulley passing a crank position sensor at 10° before tdc. It seems that it is correct and would be hard to change as the sensor is firmly screwed in place and shows no signs of moving. The crank and pulley can only be put on correctly as they have differently spaced bolt holes.
If I put an ohm meter on the sensor leads the resistance changes as the notch passes by.

What compression should I be getting (dry/wet throttle open/closed??)

I can't believe so many thousands of fiat 126s have been produced and I can't find anyone who has the same symptoms?

What controls the timings advance as revs increase in your electronic system?
Is there a way of confirming the basic timing position?
Since you have owned that engine has it ever ran to your satisfaction?
Others on Forum will be more accurate re compression pressure, but I suspect around 106psi from memory.

 

[Thomas Vaughan]

The engine has never run under my ownership. I have video of the last, last owner driving it without problem. The owner after that ( who I bought the car from) did mention that it might need the timing looking at. Since I bought it the entire engine was stripped cleaned and rebuilt. I made sure not to adjust or move anything from the original settings. The position sensor has been removed but as I said it can't be moved accidentally. I will move it a few millimeters towards tdc and away from tdc and try again, bit it's late now and the neighbours wouldn't appreciate the noise
I'm going to have a little whiskey then off to bed.

Thanks again for your support!

Feeling down as I'm nearing completion and now I've hit a brick wall.

 

[bugsymike]

The engine has never run under my ownership. I have video of the last, last owner driving it without problem. The owner after that ( who I bought the car from) did mention that it might need the timing looking at. Since I bought it the entire engine was stripped cleaned and rebuilt. I made sure not to adjust or move anything from the original settings. The position sensor has been removed but as I said it can't be moved accidentally. I will move it a few millimeters towards tdc and away from tdc and try again, bit it's late now and the neighbours wouldn't appreciate the noise
I'm going to have a little whiskey then off to bed.

Thanks again for your support!

Feeling down as I'm nearing completion and now I've hit a brick wall.

Sounds like the last owner knew more about the problems than he let on.
You will get there in the end, I always say if it was easy every idiot would do it, just methodically work your way along, the success will be more pleasure.
The whisky sounds the right solution for tonight.

 

[Thomas Vaughan]

I move the crank sensor carefully while idling and it made no difference.
I've fitted a new twin coil too, as I had an extra one.
Measured the alternator output at 14.7v so that's good.
Removed and swapped around the spade connectors on the alternator too.
Disconnected the engine run on cut off module too, with no difference.

 

[bugsymike]

What exact ignition set up do you have, in my old books they started with a simple points and distributor set up (cheap to diagnose and replace) later ones seem to have a variety of electronic systems where faults are not always obvious.