Technical 100TD Timing belt cover/cylinder head removal?

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Technical 100TD Timing belt cover/cylinder head removal?

Kev_marea

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Hi there.

I need to remove the cylinder head from my 100TD Marea. In order to do that one of the first things I need to do is remove the TB cover, but there is an engine mount right in the middle of the TB cover like a black metal arm about 4 inches long going backwards to a mount near the engine compartment bulkhead.

Anyways, I initially thought it might need jacking up to remove this mounting arm, but now I have seen there is another engine mount at the base of the engine at the TB end. So there are 2 mounts at the TB end.

Does this mean I can safely undo the top engine mount without the need for jacking support?

TB = Timing Belt not Throttle Body!
 
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Kev_marea

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Cool, thanks for the answer, that's a relief, yeah I was worried about it dropping or falling over so to speak.

There is no water leak whilst it is not running, It has been sitting full of water this past week and the level has not dropped - so that's a good sign. Just hope I don't find a crack.
 
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Kev_marea

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When I start to remove the diesel supply lines, I expect some loss of diesel,

1. Is the system under pressure? The CD doesn't mention it is so I guess not.
2. Will the diesel continue to flow out, unless I do something to stop it? I have a full tank of diesel.
 

Hellcat

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The 'low' pressure side will not just flow out. It's pumped from the fuel tank by a lo pressure pump. Thing to be careful of is the high pressure side. Not sure how is the best way to make sure there isn't any pressure left in the solid fuel pipes.

As for that rear engine mount - that's a torque mount to stop the enginedestroying its lower mounts when you accelerate!
 
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Kev_marea

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Ususal method is to disconnect the fuel pump relay and start it up, this then releases any pressure in the high pressure side, I'll do that if I can find the relay. Main concern is fuel running out due to gravity once it is disconnected.
 

Hellcat

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the fuel lines come in at the top of the engine bay and into the fuel filter don't they? Just remove the pipes feeding the fuel filter.
 

stylers

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there is no tank fuel pump in the TD100, so just disconnect the lines and maybe block them up or wrap the ends with insulating tape or something. They wont drain the tank unless you let them fall down below it - but let off the filler cap first in case there is air pressure built up or something..

Owen.
 
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Kev_marea

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HELP,

I can't get the nut undone holdng the ridgid EGR valve pipe to the exhaust mainifold

This is a TD 100, but on the CD manual it is indicated

Run CD,
Volume 1 /
Engine /
Removing and refittting (the options on lower half of the screen)
Engine 1910 TD75 removing and refitting
Page 20
Figure 3

It is the arrowed nut. I have tried a 24mm open ended spanner but it won't budge WHat tool would be best for this? Awkward because the ridgid pipe is in the centre of the nut, so you can't use a socket, It's also in an awkward position, but having removed the radiator I have some room.
 
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Kev_marea

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I reckon a crow foot or a flare nut spanner, both are expensive in a 24mm size.

I put some penetraion oil on overnight.
 
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Kev_marea

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Well I cut a hole out of a cheap 24mm ring spanner and it opens up when you put the torque on the nut - so that's no good.

I might end up cutting the pipe and worrying about it later (if the head is cracked it's gonna be scrapped anyway).
 
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Kev_marea

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appears to be an hydraulic pipe to the top of the turbine - anyone shed some light on this, also an oil pipe to the bottom of the turbine from the crankcase.

This is fast becoming a guide of "what not to do" for anyone in the future who wishes to attmpt this.

The manual guide for the TD 75 is seriously lacking in explanations.

I have decided that with the EGR pipe removed from the manifold if you are lucky enough to be able to do that, and with the manifold/turbine retaining bracket (to crankcase) removed (there is only one as far as I can see on the TD 100 - unlike the TD 75 which has 2) then the exhaust maniflod/turbine assembly should be flexible enough to allow you to pull it away from the engine block (over any remaining exhaust mani studs).

On my car the EGR pipe is stuck fast so there is the possibility that undoing the valve assembly at the other end of the EGR pipe might just give me enough flexibility to pull the exhaust over the remaining studs.

The problem is the hydraulic pipe (on the TD 100) which runs from gearbox to top of the turbine, it is a ridgid pipe so care must be taken to ensure it is flexible enough to be pulled away.

Of course the other option is to remove the remaining exhaust mani studs. Which I might be doing. I think after all is said and done removing the exhaust mani studs is the best option. Then you don't have to undo the EGR pipe at all. You will be able to remove the cylinder head, and clean the exhaust mani face with CH revoved.

I have to now decide whether to undo the inlet manifold side of the engine, or to give up and scrap it.
 
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Kev_marea

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Ok another update.

I have decided to leave the remaining 4 studs in place and when I loosen the cylinderhead I will try to lift the cylinder head backwards so the studs come out from the manifold. We'll see what happens.

If this works it means the only work you have to do on the front of your engine is
1. Remove turbine/crankcase bracket
2. Undo manifold nuts
3. Remove the coolant hoses from the left and right side of the ridgid cooling hose which runs across the top of the manifold.

On the rear I have

1 Removed EGR valve bracket then undid the same 2 studs further to seperate EGR valve from Air intake duct.

2. Loosened the 3 (10mm) nuts holding the black plastic box next to the EGR valve. The lower one is the devil, I did it with a 10mm deep offset ringspanner with my hand under the EGR valve. (I have not removed the pipes on the lower side of this box)

3. Undo with 17mm spanner the fuel lines into fuel pump, I removed the two lines nearest the TB end completely but left the other two attached to the injectors. I had to do this to access the lower two on the fuel pump.

4. remove the fuel feed to fuel pump and the fuel recovery? line on the left hand end of the intake manifold.

5. I have managed to do all this without touching the accelerator assembly. I intend to leave this intact, even when I reassemble.

6 undo glow plug wires

7 undo 2 bolts holding intake manifold to TB area.

That's all you have to do on the rear of the engine (easier than I thought). So all I have to do now is set the timing and remove the belt and I'm nearly finished.


Question.
I have noticed the timing marks are slightly off, but the fuel pump pulley timing mark is 1 cog out, presumably the only timing marks that matter are the camshaft pulley and crankshaft pulley, when I reassmble I can put the fuel pump pulley back to the correct position. It only acts as a third reference, and actually it's position not important to the running of the engine. Am I right?
 

Hellcat

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Um.. On the TD I think the selection of which cylinder gets diesel when is controlled by the timing belt. The belt drives a pump and rotary valve.
 
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Kev_marea

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Yeah, it's ok, I decided the fuel pump pulley timing mark was not one cog out after all, I decided to line this up and lock it in position (as described in manual), with it in this position the crankshaft pulley looks right according to the manual picture. There is no timing reference on the cam cover for the camshaft pulley.

On my engine a previous mechanic has put white tip-ex marks and punched a mark into the cam cover. I personally think he was wrong (by about 3 - 4 mm or 1 cog) because the fuel pump pulley was not properly alligned with his white marks.

I don't believe the head has ever come off on this engine so I think his marks are for TB renewal only.

Anyways, I have alligned the FP pulley and locked it, and put my own punch mark next to the crankcase pulley mark (which is at 9 oclock) the locating pin on the crankshaft pulley is just after 6 oclock.

I'm really unimpressed with the lack of proper timing marks on this engine.


Tomorrow I remove the head bolts, I realised a problem with my method as described (leaving the studs on & leaving the EGR pipe attatched) when you release the head bolts the head will rise up possibly jamming itself with the studs I have left. So for anyone reading this in the future beware of this happening. I might be ok because I have undone the exhaust downpipe connection (3 X 12mm nuts) so my manifold is kind of flexible, but I still am concerned about the hydraulic pipe to the turbine which appears to be the only thing that is stopping the manifold from moving.
 
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Kev_marea

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Well time for an update, I am extremely slow and do this as and when I can.

I took the head off, could not see any obvious points for leakage on the HG. But the 2 centre pistons were obviously not firing correctly (evidence of unburnt emulsified oil).

Anyway cleaned everthing, sanded down both faces, not going to bother skimming, too much hassle and extra expense. HG cost £31 MLS variety.

As it says in the TD75 online CD, you're supposed to measure the height of the piston travel above the cylinder block and take an average of all pistons.

0-0.8 mm 0 notch gasket (1.6mm)
0.8 - 0.9mm 1 notch gasket (1.7mm)
< 0.9 2 notch gasket (1.8mm)

The old gasket on my car was 0 notch, and I measured the height to be 0.75 - 0.8mm on 3 pistons so I got myself a 0 notch gasket. Beware of motor factors who

a) don't ask what notch gasket you want
b) Tell you "you have to go up 1 notch every time you change them" - wrong!

I wish I had a compression checker for diesels but I don't :(

So I have almost got every thing back on the engine, need to do exhaust manifold and radiator and a few coolant pipes.

My next update will be to tell you if I got it going again or not and if I had any problems.
 
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Kev_marea

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It's alive, but only just. (yeah I know I'm slow!)

Started it and there were no bubbles in the expansion bottle. - I don't know if I said earlier, but the reason I knew the head gasket was blown was because of major bubbling in the expansion bottle as soon as the engine was started even when cold. The fact there were no bubbles was good news, it means the new HG was holding out.

I took it for a short run, turned around after about 1 mile to come home again, and it started overheating, should have pulled over, but decided to just get it home ASAP, got home & released the pressure on the expansion bottle.
Rad top pipe hot, rad and bottom pipe cold, when rad was off car, it was flushed and not blocked.

Let it cool for a bit, then topped it up with hot. then started it again. Still no bubbles in expansion bottle, so it looks like I may have been lucky that the excessive pressure did NOT blow the new HG AGAIN!!!

The history of this car, is that not long before the HG went the thermaostat house was renewed, and a new water pump fitted (alledgedly). My Brother had an idea that they didn't fit a new one they just glued the old ones impeller back on, who knows,?


I then let it idle to heat up, with the expansion bottle lid loose, the rad slowly got hot, and the bottom pipe. but it was not heating up quickly enough for me, (staying at the half way mark), so I pressed the accelerator, as soon as I did that the water in the bottle started to come up and overflow (loose cap) and the temperature went up.

I stopped the test there, because I didn't want to tighten the cap, as the temp had gone up.

I will have to repeat the idle water temp test again.

So far I have the following ideas

1. blocked waterway, but I saw no evidence of that when I had it in bits.
2. thermostat stuck closed, but the idle test showed the rad and bottom pipe get hot.
3. thermostat stuck slightly open - possible
4. Waterpump broken - ok at idle? no good at higher revs?

Do you think I'm going to have to check the waterpump? I didn't check it when I was in bits - because I didn't want to break the seal if it was good. Looks like I might have to now.

What do you think?
 
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bandido41

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Have you bled the water system cos that could be what is causing it to overheat quickly, there are 2 bleed screws one on the rad and one on the pipe that goes into the heater.
 
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Kev_marea

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Yep, bled the two screws. Doing the new idle heat up test as we speak. Gonna wait and see if the fan comes on.

With no revving of the engine, the fan works as it should, had the cap loose. Will now try idle test with the cap on tight.

Ok idle with cap on tight worked, and continued to bleed air screws seems maybe there is a lot of air that needs to come out bit by bit.

Went for a short run (1 mile) still ok, but when I came to let air out again there pipe was only half full of water, decided to call it a day until tomorrow.

I did lose a lot of water in the bleed process, due to it being so hot and the screw coming right out, scalding me.

I think I'll have to ignore my last results and start again tomorrow.
 
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