Introduction
Is it an abarth panda or a fiat panda
Panda 100hp
- Thread starter Tw5jim
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Touché sir
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Abarth never made a Panda version.
What have I put in the 10 characters or more section when I joined might have to change something me thinks.
Going by those front wing badges, maybe even a Lancia Panda in High Fidelity trim?
Looks like a good 'un
Just a thought if it's often parked on grass: pay extra attention to the bits that can rust: rear spring pans, rear sills, oil sump, springs & shocks. Well worth looking after this potential future classic
Looks like a good 'un
Just a thought if it's often parked on grass: pay extra attention to the bits that can rust: rear spring pans, rear sills, oil sump, springs & shocks. Well worth looking after this potential future classic
Need a name, a personal thing, so I will not suggest any
However a play on the numberplate
NVY equals Navy
Worth Checking over. Someone spent money on the outside mods. They may have spent money on suspension, brakes or engine mods also
However a play on the numberplate
NVY equals Navy
Worth Checking over. Someone spent money on the outside mods. They may have spent money on suspension, brakes or engine mods also
Hi all by the numbers michal not me all fiat rmjbn had to look up what hf means myself they were on the car when my son bought it would be nice if it was a special edition though didn’t think the grass would kill it like that that’s good to know and to finish koalar it’s not my car to name but it definitely needs a nickname
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100HP back axles are not the same as other 169 Pandas. It's not an insurmountable problem but does add to the cost of changing out a rusty axle. Mine was looking pretty cruddy. I had a go with an angle grinder and quickly realised it needed specialist attention. I took the whole axle to be grit blasted and zinc metal sprayed. It's overkill but for £80 I bit his hand off. My only regret is not getting the epoxy over the top because zinc primers that actually work are not cheap.
So they are best off professionally restored are they hard to remove
It'll be rusty, if left too long it can look like this. Best to show it some love. Even smearing on some grease or old engine oil is better than nowt
Can be done in situ, there's a good guide here: https://www.fiatforum.com/guides/panda-rear-suspension-replacement.826/
Here's mine, with red oxide primer showing where the rust is: https://www.fiatforum.com/threads/psychopanda-quest-ce-que-cest.475528/#post-4525454
Can be done in situ, there's a good guide here: https://www.fiatforum.com/guides/panda-rear-suspension-replacement.826/
Here's mine, with red oxide primer showing where the rust is: https://www.fiatforum.com/threads/psychopanda-quest-ce-que-cest.475528/#post-4525454
Attachments
We don’t want that I see some time underneath in my future
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I got the car safely chocked with back end high up on axles stands. And got started cleaning the rusty but not horrendous axle. just 5 minutes made it blatantly obvious that I really did not want the job. The price quoted was from a firm that does work for the Brixham fishing fleet. They don’t mess about with 1/2 measures.
You’ll need to heat the brake flare nuts as the ends get seized as the zinc plate fliuffs up under the plastic outer sleeve.
It’s easier to drop the axle complete with pyramid brackets. It’s a great opportunity to fit braided lines from chassis all the way to the brakes. Follow the original pattern so you’ll be able to remove a brake in the future.
The stub axles have over-long studs. Get them off as best you can and replace with new HT studs. Fit double nuts and trim off the excess thread.
You’ll need to heat the brake flare nuts as the ends get seized as the zinc plate fliuffs up under the plastic outer sleeve.
It’s easier to drop the axle complete with pyramid brackets. It’s a great opportunity to fit braided lines from chassis all the way to the brakes. Follow the original pattern so you’ll be able to remove a brake in the future.
The stub axles have over-long studs. Get them off as best you can and replace with new HT studs. Fit double nuts and trim off the excess thread.
Cheers mate 
Hi Michal, and welcome
They were like this from the factory 2006-2010, 16-valve 1.4 engine: https://www.evo.co.uk/fiat/panda/6483/fiat-panda-100hp-review
Needs doing ASAP
As it was picked up on the last MOT
Rear Sub-frame corroded but not seriously weakened (5.3.3 (b)
A bit of work now would save a lot of work latter
Should have two new rear shocks which is a bonus
Well spotted. Yes, I'd agree this is urgent, MOT wouldn't pick up general rust here unless it was bad.
I think it's worth doing properly once, then you can keep on top of it. It needs taking back to clean sound metal, either DIY on the car (messy, but access is quite easy - that's how I did it), or take it in somewhere.
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I made support blocks for the rear sill jacking points using 3/4" (20mm) plywood and "2 x 1" battens. These carry the car weight on the sill jacking point NOT on the sill flange. Check out the OEM wheel change jack for how they fit. The inner block is about 4" (100mm) long the outer is half of that to fit in the gap Fiat provide in the 100HP side skirts.
