Northern Auto Tech - ECU and Blue & Me Repairs

General Crank sensor

Currently reading:
General Crank sensor

N

NebulaStilo

Member
Joined
Jul 18, 2019
Messages
220
Points
50
Hello Peeps,hope you having a good Christmas

Car: fiat stilo 1.6 2006

Like I said in previous thread that I've replaced o2 sensor and spark plugs and when replacing the plugs I noticed that the one coil pack is brittle on the end where the plug meets the coil pack.

No CEL but now and then under pending fault codes,it picks up a misfire detected on that cylinder the pack is on.

My problem is last night when engine was cold ie standing whole day,it struggled to start. She took a few attempts to start when eventually she started. My CEL came on and I plugged in my scan tool. P0335 appeared.
Then this morning exactly same thing,again P0335.

Is this related to my misfire since ecu picks up misfire from crank ive been told or is it from the hard cold start caused by coil pack and crank picking up fault?

When driving no code appears besides pending fault, misfire detected.

She starts fine during day,drives sluggish and uneven acceleration. She will usually accelerate much better passed 4000rpm. Low revs she's unevenly accelerating. When pulling her past 4000 then she responds much better.
However p0335 never ever comes up. Only now with my hard start last night and this morning.

Please help,

Thank you guys
 
Hi so ive replaced the coil pack in question in my above post.

Slightly better. Better idling but still a noticeable lack in power and a surge. Not as much surge but still there.

What could it be now?
Update ECU?
Change other packs?
Im trying the cheaper things first then last resort is opening engine to replace rings and valves. No coolant in oil and no bubbling in coolant resorvoir(signs of rings busted ie low compression)

When I unplug upstream o2 sensor, she pulls without a surge.
Unplugging MAP,car switches off so does that mean its not the map sensor?

Any help please guys?
 
Hi,

From reading all your other threads about your car I am sure the engine is worn out.

Low compression from wear of piston rings or worn out pistons or bores will not cause oil in coolant or exhaust gas in coolant.

Good luck.
 
P0335 is a crank position sensor code.
Hard starting definately can be caused by a dieing crank position sensor.
Just replace it with a brand new one from a proper manufacture and check it's wiring for damage.

You are lucky to get a code for crank sensor as they usually fail without setting a code.
 
Agreed with Jack about the sensor. P0335 is a crank sensor and that affects the ignition, so if you have strange ignition symptoms and a sensor issue warning, then it's reasonable to assume it's telling the truth and check it out. For the cost, I'd just swap the sensor.. it's solid state inside so you can't fix it (unless you clearly see that the wiring has a problem, or similar).

The second O2 sensor is still the old one, if I remember right. I'd retire it, since it clearly causes the engine to run roughly when it's plugged in.

Any brittle or missing rubber insulation on the coils won't help.. Arcing will cause ignition issues and may damage other components (such as the coils themselves) so make sure they're all in good condition.

Otherwise I think your engine is okay. If it doesn't burn oil, then the valve stem seals and the rings are okay... and if they are okay, it means you don't have any bore wear... and no bore wear suggests your cams are also probably okay, since abuse tends to kill everything at the same time. A compression check is easy/cheap to carry out and it may be interesting to see what the engine health looks like.. but for now, if the engine has moments of lucidity, when it runs okay, that suggests it's not a physical problem.

Ralf S.
 
jackwhoo said:
P0335 is a crank position sensor code.
Hard starting definately can be caused by a dieing crank position sensor.
Just replace it with a brand new one from a proper manufacture and check it's wiring for damage.

You are lucky to get a code for crank sensor as they usually fail without setting a code.
Click to expand...

Hi,thanks for the reply.

I replaced the crank sensor in 2019. Brand new one. How long do they last?
I've done 15000km in a year. Also i replaced him because he was starting to show those symptoms of surging etc.but didn't do anything after replacing it. Fuel pump was also replaved.
Over the year I was replacing parts thats why I'm stuck now.

Why would he stop surging with upstream o2 sensor unplugged?
 
NebulaStilo said:
Hi,thanks for the reply.

I replaced the crank sensor in 2019. Brand new one. How long do they last?
I've done 15000km in a year. Also i replaced him because he was starting to show those symptoms of surging etc.but didn't do anything after replacing it. Fuel pump was also replaved.
Over the year I was replacing parts thats why I'm stuck now.

Why would he stop surging with upstream o2 sensor unplugged?
Click to expand...
Hi,

You have started so many threads with the same problems it is hard to know what you have done.

There is no fixed life for a sensor, we don't know what brand you bought or if you checked the wiring.

I too suggest a compression check.
 
jackwhoo said:
Hi,

You have started so many threads with the same problems it is hard to know what you have done.

There is no fixed life for a sensor, we don't know what brand you bought or if you checked the wiring.

I too suggest a compression check.
Click to expand...


Thanks for the reply

Crank sensor is a euromann replacement. O2 sensor also euromann.
Coil packs are Bremi coil pack.
Fuel pump was changed,not sure of brand,think a Bosch
Air filter also changed,champion is the brand
Oil filter also changed,Gudd is the brand. Gudd is south african I think but very reliable. Many of our new cars are fitted with Gudd to assure parts availability.
Timing belt also replaced in 2019,dayco brand.
Thats about it.
 
From a quick internet search Euromann appears to be cheap Chinese stuff labelled to sound non Chinese.

Again do not fit no name o2 sensors
Only fit decent brand such as Bosch or ntk/ngk. No name cheap Chinese o2 sensors cause far more problems than they fix.

If you have the original crank sensor that was not faulty refit that sensor.
 
Last edited:
jackwhoo said:
From a quick internet search Euromann appears to be cheap Chinese stuff labelled to sound non Chinese.

Again do not fit no name o2 sensors
Only fit decent brand such as Bosch or ntk/ngk. No name cheap Chinese o2 sensors cause far more problems than they fix.

If you have the original crank sensor that was not faulty refit that sensor.
Click to expand...

I cleaned the crank sensor off,no debris on it. The distance between the teeth and sensor is very small. I put old crank sensor back on and was no difference. I put new one back on.

Should I put old upstream sensor that is currently on post CAT(no CAT converter,previous owner cut it off),and put it back on upstream and move euromann sensor that is currently on upstream to downstream?

I bought this make because the very reputable parts store,masterparts ,sold it and was only one they had and only parts store who could get.

Otherwise I must pay ridiculus amount online plus a massive shipping fee of which I don't have. Im buying parts piece by piece.

I can't even sell the beast because nobody wants her?
 
Are you saying you get fault code for crank sensor with old crank sensor and new crank sensor?

If you have a crank sensor that is giving a fault code and a crank sensor that is not giving a fault code - fit the crank sensor that does not give a fault code.
 
Last edited:
jackwhoo said:
Are you saying you get fault code for crank sensor with old crank sensor and new crank sensor?
Click to expand...

I don't get a crank sensor code.
I mean the symptoms is the same. They don't go away.

One evening after car was standing she took a couple of tries before she started.crank sensor code came up. P0335 came up.
Next morning after standing overnight she again took a couple of tries before starting. P0335 again returned. She never ever returned even after maybe taking a second or 2 longer to start.
 
NebulaStilo said:
I don't get a crank sensor code.
I mean the symptoms is the same. They don't go away.

One evening after car was standing she took a couple of tries before she started.crank sensor code came up. P0335 came up.
Next morning after standing overnight she again took a couple of tries before starting. P0335 again returned. She never ever returned even after maybe taking a second or 2 longer to start.
Click to expand...
This thread started about crank sensor code.

Let's keep it simple and stick to the thread.

If you have had a crank sensor code with the crank sensor that is currently fitted to the car change it for the other crank sensor you have.

If you want to ask again about the other problem you have post on one of your old threads that has all the information on.
 
Ralf S. said:
Agreed with Jack about the sensor. P0335 is a crank sensor and that affects the ignition, so if you have strange ignition symptoms and a sensor issue warning, then it's reasonable to assume it's telling the truth and check it out. For the cost, I'd just swap the sensor.. it's solid state inside so you can't fix it (unless you clearly see that the wiring has a problem, or similar).

The second O2 sensor is still the old one, if I remember right. I'd retire it, since it clearly causes the engine to run roughly when it's plugged in.

Any brittle or missing rubber insulation on the coils won't help.. Arcing will cause ignition issues and may damage other components (such as the coils themselves) so make sure they're all in good condition.

Otherwise I think your engine is okay. If it doesn't burn oil, then the valve stem seals and the rings are okay... and if they are okay, it means you don't have any bore wear... and no bore wear suggests your cams are also probably okay, since abuse tends to kill everything at the same time. A compression check is easy/cheap to carry out and it may be interesting to see what the engine health looks like.. but for now, if the engine has moments of lucidity, when it runs okay, that suggests it's not a physical problem.

Ralf S.
Click to expand...

Hi Ralf
Hope you well.
Back at it with the stilo??
Well I only unplug the upstream sensor,not the downstream. Old o2 is downstream and no CEL anymore for downstream which was the code I had. At least the light is off??however symptoms are still present.

At cooler temps she runs much better. I dont have that pipe that goes from the grill to the airbox(remmeber bought new 2nd hand airbox) that pipe wasn't on.could warm engine bay air be causing acceleration issues?

When I pull away she misfires like a hiccup then would go but then surge until around 4000rpm then all of a sudden a boost of power and she goes. But sometimes she surges right through past 4000rpm.

2nd o2 sensor on scan tool still doesn't show a reading like with the sensor that i took off from downstream(the one that caused a CEL)and that sensor that's downstream gave readings at least upstream?

I only unplug upstream sensor then she has that power im used to with her.

Is there additives to increase compression to see what happens or something to clean out valves etc.just a question.

My PCV has white stuff just where the breather pipe attaches to filler cap.cant I remove that whole filler tube to clean it?
 
jackwhoo said:
This thread started about crank sensor code.

Let's keep it simple and stick to the thread.

If you have had a crank sensor code with the crank sensor that is currently fitted to the car change it for the other crank sensor you have.

If you want to ask again about the other problem you have post on one of your old threads that has all the information on.
Click to expand...

Ok will do that.

If that doesn't show results them best to book for a compression test?
 
The cheap components can be useful, if they change your symptoms then they can suggest that you're at least looking in the right area. I had a cheap throttle position sensor once that made the idle worse... but since it was new, I could see that the potentiometer was controlled by a small rotating cylinder valve. On my old one, the cylinder was stuck .. and obviously I had no idea that it was supposed to rotate.

After I'd cleaned mine and freed up the valve, so it could rotate .. it was perfect. The cheapo idle control valve went back into its box.. it's better than one that doesn't work at all.. but only just! :D


Ralf S.
 
This post contains affiliate links which may earn a commission at no additional cost to you.
You must log in or register to reply here.

Similar threads

B
Technical Fiat Stilo 192 A4000 1.8 Ltr 16V Sump & Crank Bolt
Replies
1
Views
176
burtontrent
B
Dionisis13
  • Solved
Technical Fiat Stilo 1st crank everyday problem
Replies
3
Views
591
gbrfarkas
gbrfarkas
A
General 1.9 jtd map sensor
Replies
6
Views
2K
ad777
A
N
Technical Temp sensor?
Replies
10
Views
1K
TheBlackRazor
TheBlackRazor
B
Technical Fiat Stilo Rain sensor
Replies
5
Views
2K
Maxcaddy
Maxcaddy
Back
Top